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Building

I want to build a tuning slide for a home made flute. Where can I find tightly telescoping tubing to do this? I am looking for something that will approximate the tight fit of a concert boehm head articulation with the body. (Bryan)

Tell me what dimensions you require and maybe I can help Phil Bleazey phil@bleazey.co.uk (Phil Bleazey)
Yes, I know. There is an American brass company that sells exactly what you want. Their specialty is precision brass shapes and their tubing selection includes telescoping sizes large enough for flute construction. Their name is...drum roll please...Special Shapes Co., Romeoville Illinois. Phone 630-759-1970. Randy Howard (anonymous)
Any hoby or model shop ought to have the tubing required. I have had very good results with the cheap tubing sold at these places. (anonymous)
MY NAME IS ALAN DOHERTY.I PLAY FLUTE WITH AN IRIAH BAND CALLED GRADA..I'M LOOKING FOR A BANSURI TEACHER..CAN YOU HELP ME... (alan doherty)

I am trying to make a low whistle, and found some plans on the net that are OK. But I have a question: Would it be possible to make a wooden flute, too? My own flute is a romantic french one and the tube is conic. Is it possible to make a cylindric one? (Francis)

It is possible to build a cylindrical-bore wooden flute. I think the most common modern examples are bamboo or cane flutes. Mark Shepard wrote a book about making simple flutes, and you can find details on his website at http://www.markshep.com. (webmaster)
You can make a wooden flute quite easily. Th e difficulties come in "perfecting" one. My own experience with building flutes began with making ceramic Notched Flutes, cylindrical bore, six finger holes. I the went to making them from PVC pipe, so that I could experiment without wasting nice wood in the process. Later I began using Theobald Boehm's book "The Flute and Flute Playing." This is a good resource book for any one interested in Woodwind instruments. The real way to learn to make flutes of any material is to go ahead and make some! They are fairly easy to make, and each one will benefit from all the ones you've built before. Have some fun with it, Good Luck, Tony Denning (tony)

Does anybody have contacts for silver tuning slide stock in England, Germany or Ireland? (anonymous)

I'd like to locate a set of plans for a simple Irish flute. I have several well seasoned boxwood and rosewood turning stocks left over from my last Uilleann pipes making effort. The pipes turned out OK, the reeds... well, that's another story. I enjoy playing irish music and I would probably enjoy it so much more if I didn't have to spend most of my time adjusting temperamental reeds, so I'm willing to give the flute a whirl. Plans for a simple flute will do just fine, and if the plans show additional key placement, that will be great too. Thanks in advance, Fernando. (anonymous)

Go here..Edinburgh Uni collection of Musical Instruments. http://www.music.ed.ac.uk/euchmi/uwl.html#Woodwind Good Luck Pat Higgins (Pat Higgins)
I bought a set of plans from Australian maker Terry McGee. They are very thorough and worth the price for making either a keyed or keyless Irish flute. http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Plans.htm (anonymous)

M & E FLUTES. SOME PEOPLE HAVE COMMENTED THAT THE SLIDES ON THESE FLUTES ARE TOO LOOSE - AS A D.I.Y MAN I WOULD LIKE TO FORWARD A COMMENT THAT MAY OR MAY NOT HELP. HERE IN NEW ZEALAND PLUMBERS USE COPPER PIPING FOR WATER, THEY HAVE 2 WAYS OF JOINING THE MATERIAL, EITHER BY BRAZING IT (A BIG NO NO FOR A FLUTE)OR BY USING A CROX NUT TOOL AND MECHANICALY FASTENING THE PIPES TOGETHER. IN SHORT THIS TOOL EXPANDS THE INNER WALL OF THE COPPER TUBING CREATING A RAISED RING WHERE A CROX NUT ACTS AGAINST THE RING AND TIGHTENS UP AGAINST A BRASS NIPPLE. THESE CROX NUT TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE IN 5/8 THS AND 3/4 QUARTER INCHES COSTING BETWEEN 15 - 25 DOLLARS NZ. YOU INSERT THE TONGUE OF THE TOOL INSIDE THE PIPING AND SLOWLY TURN THE THREADED "T" HANDLE CLOCKWISE THIS FORCES 3 BALL BEARINGS TO ACT AND PRESS AGAINST THE INNER WALL, AS YOU ONLY WANT TO ENSURE THE SLIDE OF THE FLUTE WILL REMAIN FIRM NOT MUCH PRESSURE WILL BE REQUIRED AND A RAISED SURFACE WILL APPEAR. A CHEAP AND INEXPENSIVE WAY OF ENSURING THE SLIDE IS FIRM AND SQUARE TO THE WALL OF THE TUBING WHILE STILL LOOKING GOOD. ALL THE BEST KEITH RANDALL DUNEDIN NEW ZEALAND AMATEUR (OKAY) BEGINNER FLUTE PLAYER (mr.grumpy)

On my M&E the slide appeared loose until I put slide grease on it, which tightened it right up. On the modern silver flute, it is a "no-no" to put anything on the tenon slides, but on the Irish flute it is apparently expected that the slide will be greased. (James_P)
I ran into the same problem with my M&E flute. Michael Cronnolly directed me to use the compound he'd included with the instrument by putting a coat of it directly onto the metal slide. It's actually toilet gasket that's obtainable from Ace Hardware stores. It adds resistance to the slide at the same time it allows the joints to turn more easily. It fixed the excess motion of the slide.--Ken (Ken)
I've had the same problem with my M&E flute. On the advice of a friend I've been using a mixture of beeswax and petroleum jelly to tighten up the slide and the problem seems to have been remedied. -Wes (Wes)
Chris Wilkes provides a small vial of silicone grease with his flutes. A small dab applied to the tuning slide with a finger tip and spread around once or twice a year keeps the slide tight enough but quite functional. I obtained an additional supply in the plumbing department of my local hardware store. Low low cost. Non-abrasive enough and won't ever congeal or act as glue. [If you've ever arm wrestled with an antique flute with a frozen tuning slide, you know my long term worry about using a wax or organic grease for this purpose.] (Larry Mallette)
Don't use a crox nut tool on an M & E flute. Please don't. Just a little wax or grease. Using a crox tool would be much more foolish than using a chain saw to butter your bread. (anonymous)
Don't use a crox nut tool on an M & E flute. Please don't. Just a little wax or grease. Using a crox tool would be much more foolish than using a chain saw to butter your bread. (anonymous)

Halo Im a maker of wood flutes and ather woodwind instruments, I look for info abaut festivals, summer scool and any ather event in europe and usa next summer that I can show and sel my work in.I hope somwone can give me a list with adras ,date and phone .lots of thanks . (anonymous)

Uk summerschool. Folkworks in durham. the run adult and youth schools and have had had Fintan vallely, niall keegan and brian finnegan all teaching in recent years. more info at www.folkworks.co.uk ()
Try www.froots.demon.co.uk Phil Bleazey (Phil Bleazey)
Try Rudolshtadt Germany july (TihDim) (TihDim)
Hello maker of wooden flutes, I have a question for you, I have never played a flute before but would like to learn, and I want to make my own flute out of wood, but I can not find much information on making them on the net, could you give me some pointers on making one. Thank you. Mike (Mike)

I'm seeking for information. Tell me your opinion - if you can, if you have - about Ray Sloan's Celtic flutes. (Bennett) (anonymous)

According to his web site Ray has stopped making flutes and is concentrating solely on pipes. I am not an expert by any means but I started off on his CELTIC STUDENT flute which sounds fine to me, he was also very helpful with a repair job and took time to mail me with advice. (domino)

Hi, I am completing an MA in Social Anthropology, and am specialising in the construction of the traditional New Zealand Maori diagonal 'tube' flute the KOAUAU. This is a great instrument to play -straight bore-air directed across open end of tube- and gives a beautiful tone, though is nothing like the standard horizontal flute in range (0-5 holes only). This is a long shot but here goes: does anyone out there know anything about the koauau? or knows of someone who does? does anyone know anything about any other traditional diagonal wooden flutes? and/or how they were made? For my field work, three flutes using differing traditional methods will be made. so what do you say? (Rob Thorne)

Hi Rob, Try directing your question to Bernard Wells (bcwells@xtra.co.nz). A friend of his knows a thing or two about Koauau. Regards Ruairidh Morrison (ruairidh morrison)
kia ora rob. there are many types of maori flute intruments and all are very unique. the main being the Koauau, The Putorino and the Nguru. they are all traditional and all have stories of their own. the ptorino is the most amazing as it has 3 completely different voices. i think you would like them all they make beautiful music and have some amazing effects. there are many makers and players of maori musical instruments. check out the names Richard Nunns and Brian flintoff. there is a book Toanga Puoro Singing treasures by Brian Flintoff that i think would be invaluable to you in your study, it introduces and explains many of the different traditional instruments and teaches you how to play them and also gives instructions on how to make them. there is a cd that accompanies the book also. chek it out. any more qs just let me know. Rihari (RihariD)

I'm seeking information as soon as posible.I have 3 keys on my seery flute G#, C natural & F natural. now i want to add more keys on but what other keys are there to get on? (kitty)

You can add a long F key, which is definitely useful when playing tunes in d-minor. In fact , anytime one has to go from D to F natural this key is helpful. You can also add a B flat key. The other keys you can add, depending upon whether your flute has the holes on the foot joint, are the low C and C# keys. These can be useful, however, I think most Irish players will tell you that it's not worth the hassle. Most of us just jump the octave and let the fiddles, accordions and whatever else plays down to these notes do it for us. (Brett Lipshutz)
That's amazing, it's thew first time I hear about a keyed Seery flute. I have a keyless one myself. Did you buy yours keyed or you had the keys added on it? Leonard (leonard)

Hello there! I'm doing a project for Science Olympiad in which I need to build an instrument. Seeing that I play the flute in my band, I would really like to build a flute. For the past two years I've used a PVC flute, but that's just ugly, and I'm only stuck in one octave. So, seeing as that I have one full year, I've decided that I want to make a wooden replica of my silver flute. I have an old flute that's been busted up, so I know more or less how the spring system works on a flute. SO! The question is- Is it possible to make a wooden flute replica of a normal flute, and if so, would it be possible to make it within one year? And if an exact replica isn't possible, I'd like to find a design for a flute that'll play a two octave chromatic scale w/o requiring the use of 17 fingers. NOTE! I am quite skilled when it comes to building things! This probably isn't out of my reach, its more the trial and error that I want to eliminate. (anonymous)

Do you want to build a Boehm system flute (like your silver one) or one of the historic systems, eg 8-key "simple" system, 1-key Baroque, whatever? New made wooden Boehm flutes are commercially available, as are antique ones - have a look under "wooden flute" on e-bay! If you are interested in historic flutes, look at Terry McGee's site for starters. Robert Bigio might also be able to help with advice. From your posting, I think you need to do a lot of basic research on the history and development of the flute before you are even in a position to think about actual manufacture! Your base-line objective, "I'd like to find a design for a flute that'll play a two octave chromatic scale w/o requiring the use of 17 fingers", is certainly achievable with either 8-key or Baroque designs, depending on the type of music you wish to play and how much work you want to do on learning to play the thing to a satisfactory standard! There are many fine modern makers of replica "Irish" keyless (non-chromatic) and keyed flutes, as well as of Baroque flutes (1-keyed but chromatic with complex cross-fingering). Just do that research on the Net and avoid a lot of wasted effort "re-inventing the wheel"! Good luck! (Jem Hammond)

what is a picollo? (anonymous)

a google search turned up this address: http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/Choir/8675/piccolo.html (Lesl)
You're probably thinking of a piccalo. It is more or less, a small flute, usually metal (sometimes wood or plastic). It plays an octive higher than a C flute, and is more challenging to play because it has a smaller head joint and keys. (Caroline)
Actually, it's a piccolo. (Jessie Driscoll)
Go to http://www.tsmp.org/band/schultz/faq.html for an overview. The term may also be used as an adjective such as a piccolo trumpet or piccolo concertina. (Spencer)

Can anyone tell me how to make airtight pewter plugs ? I want to make a replica of a Rudall & Rose - Carte flute and the pewter plugs I've produced so far are all leaky. Paul (benjuktuas@hotmail.com ) (Paul)

I need help to identify an antique flute. Look as a 19th century flute, brown wood and silver metal.The mark is hard to read. At the top there is a crown. The name begin by T and look like TUNTELL. In the second row there is a name : ROSE ..charte (but not sure of charte) & Co. adress seem 20 Chaldig Cross London and the number 662 below. Please email to pbevil@videotron.ca (anonymous)

Rudall, Rose Carte & Co. 20 Charing Cross Road London (1857-1871) (Mat Stephens)

My name is Reginaldo from S�o Paulo - Brasil, and I play the Scottish and Galician bagpipes, Bodhr�n and Low & Tin whistle, I would like to learn more about Irish Flute and I'm very glad to found this group. I would like to know if someone could send me a plan of Irish Flute, or tell me where I can find it ???? (anonymous)

Try also joining the Chiff and Fipple Forum - plenty of advise on lots of relevant flute and pipes and whistle issues there. Just search the name Chiff and Fipple in google or whatever you use... best wishes for it! (Sarah)

how do you make a wooden flute (anonymous)

I inherited a wooden flute identical to the one one the very top of your web page...likely brought to Canada by ancestors from England. It is missing the end piece and I would really like to complete the instrument. I am an accomplished player and of course the historical value to my family. designworksbycc@aol.com (anonymous)

My aunt and I have recently discovered that there is limited information available on the internet regarding our former family business GH Huller in Schoneck. I am the great grand daughter of Gottfried H Huller and the grand daughter of Hermann Huller. My aunt, mother and uncle who are his children are all living in Canada. None of us own any of the instruments because of the war and I have been looking for some time to find one in a price range that we can afford. While an instrument in working condition would be lovely, if the cost is too high we would rather have anything as an historical piece for our family. If you have an information or could give me direction, I would be most appreciative. Also I have a little bit of information about the business for those who are interested. Thank you. Alexandra (anonymous)

Greetings: I am interested in info on G H Huller and his musical instrument company. I currently have 16 wooden Huller oboes all in bad condition - student models - These are being made into table lamps as they have served their usefulness as a musical tool I would greatly appreciate any info I can get on G H Huller. dchcret@doorpi.net (anonymous)
Hi, I don't know how long ago this was posted, or if you are still interested, but I just listed a Huller flute on ebay. I found this message by doing a search to find info on G H Huller. If you go to ebay and click the search for item #2536269449. You can also do a search by my user name, youwantourstuff. Steve (anonymous)
I've been bidding on the ebay item. Huller family if you are interested in it please let me know I would defer to your bid. I would be interested in more information on your family's instrument making business. I'm a player/collector. Chambermusic1@yahoo.com (BLACKLEDGE)
Hi, I am interested in hearing about the past G.H.Huller business. My father bought (and played) a clarinet made by the G.H.Huller company while he was in WWII in Germany. It is dated 1943. It still plays, but was played often and is worn. My father died in 1986 and this was the only thing I wanted to keep of his. Would love to share infor with Huller family. Lpastorek@hotmail.com (Lana) (anonymous)
I have got a silver Huller flute which was bought around 1974, i am looking for a valuation on it, with a view to selling. It has a plastic mouth pieace which makes it quite unusual, does anyone have any ideas where I can go for help. liz.law@btinternet.com (anonymous)
hi, I have a bassoon. I have been looking for information about G. H. Huller. Would like to know more about the company. rockx2@email.com (anonymous)
Hello, I too have a bassoon (serial no. 48729) in pretty good condition. Unfortunately, I no longer have the time to play it and am looking to sell it. I got the instrument in the late 70's (from a David Lock in Uxbridge, Middlesex, England) and stopped at the age of about 16 in the late 80's. I had always hoped it would be something I could keep and pick up again one day but I have different priorities now and someone else could be benefitting from it. Some of the corks and pads need a little work, otherwise, it is as lovely-sounding as it ever was. I would be delighted to have chat about it or send you some pictures, if it would be of interest to you. Thanks. Gower Preston oic@onetel.com (anonymous)
Hello, I have a wonderful antique Huller flute. I have taken it to a musician who said that all it needs is minor restoration. This piccolo appears to be the same model that is stored at the Library of Congress. I plan on having it restored. If you have any interest in purchasing this wonderful instrument please email me at franteaks@ol.com. (anonymous)
I have a Huller Wooden Flute in its original case. It is in great condition but probably needs new pads and maybe some cork repair. I need to have it appraised, but does anyone have any idea what it would be valued at? Thanks! lady.luck@juno.com (anonymous)

I inherited a wooden flute identical to the one one the very top of your web page...likely brought to Canada by ancestors from England. It is missing the end piece and I would really like to complete the instrument. I am an accomplished player and of course the historical value to my family. designworksbycc@aol.com (anonymous)

This is a naive question about woods. I like the traditional blackwood look with the silver or gold rings (ferrules) and keys. Some like the brownish or redish woods. But, why stay with the endangered or exotic woods at all? Why don't people make instruments out of more common hardwoods like locust, oak, maple, alder, etc.? And, if you were going for the exoctic looks, what about purpleheart, zebra, or bloodwood for awesome session playing? With a flute like that, you wouldn't even need to play a note! (Saoirse)

Some woods leak more than others. I have a maple fife that is a piece of junk because it's maple. The exotic woods such as grenadilla are very dense woods, which is useful as they don't leak, they are less suceptible to moisture from your breath, and the tone is purer. (Andrew)
I agree - I've seen very beautiful NA flutes made of Zebra and purpleheart. The physical strains are different but they take a LOT more humidity than an Irish flute as the "slow air chamber" acts as a very effective condenser (anonymous)

(Derek)

I HAVE RECENTLY ACQUIRED A HAWKES AND SON 6 KEY AFRICAN BLACKWOOD Bb FLUTE WITH A BAKELITE MIDDLE PIECE CAN ANYBODY TELL ME THE CURRENT VALUE OF THESE FLUTES THANKS JANE (anonymous)

jane i have info on hawkes i could scan to you, you can e mail me on dq009d0295@blueyonder.co.uk david (anonymous)
Contact me on downie8@blueyonder.co.uk for details of your instrument Derek (Derek)
I am interested in purchasing this Crown a-z 6 key my e mail is briancrossett@hotmail.com (Brian Crossett)

Can anybody give me more specifications about Pratten design fingerholes and/or rudal and rose fingerholes. Just more then that one is bigger then the other and louder and harder to play &c. I work with the Peter Hoekjes' spreadsheet at the moment, have the books of Bart Hopkin, and the one of Benade. But I am looking for a faster way to calculate the fingerhole dimensions as compared to each other. For Instance, how much need the tophole to be smaller then the 5th to get a good flattened 7th, when crosfingering it.. Somebody must have studied that!!! The trial and error method is realy nice to work with in the beginning, but i am planning to make woodenflutes, and to cast away 30 banks, before I have a decent flute (as now happens with my pvc ones) is a little to expensive and work consuming for me. (Job)

As an attempt to answer my own question. I did some research. I am primarily posting my results until now. First of all as a attempt to keep this point alive, secondly as an attempt to fire up this discussion . What is "research" until now.? Actually, I took some pics from the net, measured them with Turbo Cad, calculate relative dimension. I am aware this is a very insecure method. But not really having access to good wooden flutes here (yet), it is just a first attempt to get to some "rules of thump". Yet I find it save to draw some conclusion yet. my averages at the moment are 1st: 85%, 2nd: 95%, 3th: 79%, 4th: 88%, 5th: 100%, 6th: 61%, Where is the top hole (near the embouchure). I took pics from as well Pratten design as Rudall and roses. Odd enough the general dimension of the whole in comparisment to each other does not differ much. I did not really have a good comparisment about there placement as compared to the length of the pipe. There is an average difference of 6%. The fifth hole is always the biggest, followed by the second hole, without one exception, a b-flat flute by Terry McGee. where it is just the opposite. 6 hole is always the (very) smallest. these figures are by no way absolute, though I already trust they will do well as rule of thumb. Anybody of my learned and experienced flute makers that like to jump in, please correct me if I am wring, tell me what figures are nonsence.. (Job)

I know this is for totally wooden flutes but I could not find a forum anywhere else that could help me with this question? Does any one have woodworking plans for a wooden head joint for a regular sliver flute? Any help would be so much appreciated. Thanks Kiara (Kiara)

If I were you I would contact Sam Murray. About ten years ago I remember him having such a piece in his workshop. The only problem is that I`m unsure whether it was made by him or on the premises because it needed repaired, but I`m pretty positive he would`nt mind answering any query you might have about it. Good luck. (anonymous)
I have made several wooden heads for an armstrong flute. If you give me an email address I can email you a drawing of the ones I have made (anonymous)

I have an old wooden flute from my grandfather that has the following name engraved on it. H:EMMEL:V (or could be a Y FLORSTADT MY grandfather emigrated in the late 1800's from Germany. I think Florstadt is a German town. The flute is rather crude with holes and a few brass keys. Can anyone give me any info about this flute? It needs some repair as it has a crack in the head piece. Any information would be appreciated. classiceld@aol.com (anonymous)

How does one go about getting involved in the world of musical instrument making"? Is there any other network of instrument makers? I live in Brooklyn, NYC, I am a flute player myself, and welcome any insights into the fascinating world of instrument makers. Contacts are welcome, of course. Thanks (anonymous)

join the flutemakers mailing list at yahoo groups. I have heard that the MIMF is quite good (musical instrument makers forum). Generally the first step is to decide on what instrument you are interested in and then searchg around a forum. They do exist (especially if you want to discuss how to lacquer an electic guitar etc. etc.) Clive (anonymous)
I canot find this Yahoo forum! Can you be more specific on how to get to them? (Karlmann)

can anyone give info about african blackwood. i have been told that african blackwood from nigeria, isnt proper blackwood but an eboney wood. i have also been informed that the only place you get proper african blackwood is tazania. can anyone give me information on theses comments, (jawvea)

can anyone inform what differance it make if the blow hole is large or small..? (jawvea)

The shape of the embouchure or blow hole does make a difference, and has changed and developed throughout the history of the flute. Much has been written about it. Have a look at Terry McGee's website for an overview of the variations he offers on his new flutes. (Jem Hammond)

(anonymous)

I am building a six key wood flute and I need to obtain the keys. I do not have the equipment to make them. Are there any sources for these keys. Charles. (anonymous)

. Yes. Woods vary in density and hardness just like metals. However, density is the primary focus of observable differences as it seems to correlate best with changes in timbre. I wish there was an objective flute language with a universal meaning so that I could communicate the distinguishing characteristics of each specific wood. To my knowledge, no such language exists. In the world of headjoints, the same words often mean different things to different people. The word �bright� to one flutist means the projection of a beautiful radiance, while to another flutist the same word means strident and steely. Despite this dilemma, I endeavor to give as general a view as possible so that you are motivated enough to try these comparisons for yourself. Generally the less dense woods like boxwood have a mellower or less complex timbre than African blackwood (technically referred to as grenadilla wood) which combines sonic complexities like bright and dark throughout the octaves. Sometimes the less complex timbre is easier on the ears and sometimes the more complex timbre is more interesting to listen to. From a purely functional standpoint, the denser woods seem to have a quicker response and greater sonic and structural stability. Within the African blackwood family the wood varies in density several percent, as specimens from different trees of the same family vary and can be sorted by weight assuming moisture levels are consistent throughout. Color and grain structure also plays a role in sorting, however this is less reliable than actual weighing of like dimensional samples from different trees. By sorting African blackwood by weight, specimens can be divided into medium and high density so that a particular timbre can be anticipated. The scale illustrates two sample headjoints made to identical dimensions of African blackwood from different trees. Our company makes available our African blackwood headjoints in the densities described above so that a variety can be obtained from the same wood family. Naturally blow hole measurements and other dimensional characteristics common to all headjoints play an equally significant role in determining which headjoint you will ultimately prefer. (Antoniu)

(anonymous)

Does anyone know how to make a good flute out of PVC pipe? Or do you have any tips? (Basher5-2)

e-mail me at jason@theburnfieldcastle.com and I'll send you the information that I have used to design and build flutes of many sizes and scales from pvc and bamboo. (jasonlburnfield)

(anonymous)

How would i build a a flut out of just on peice of wood? Or is that not possible? Rebecca (anonymous)

I have a flute advertised on this site. Almost 100% of the replys are Scams. If you get a reply to your ad that says they will arrange for the shipping don't reply. If you get a reply that shows no interest in the condition of the flute but asks for only the current price and pictures, beware. If they ask for your address and other information ask them for theirs first. All scam ads seem to have "broken english" or forign sounding sentences. Just delete them. Good luck. (anonymous)

Can you please advise of any Native American flute makers in Florida - Melbourne area preferred? Regards (anonymous)

how long does it take to make a clarinet? (anonymous)

(anonymous)

i just purchased a flute for my daughter from a music club which comes in 3 sections, she has been learning the whistle but tonight we tried to set up the flute but cant make a single note, just air blowing out can anyone help before we go to our class next week? (anonymous)

I would like to make wooden flutes like the ones shown on this website's top & bottom logo. Who makes these? How do I get started learning ho to make them? I realize that I will start with a keyless Flute, but I want to begin building infrastructure for complete, keyed flutes that will be better than the silver ones. Also, is there information on how to tune more complicated units such as the Logo Flutes? I have a chromatic tuner, and am now fully equipped to make keyless, 6-hole, wooden flutes. Also, based on this site, I have a copy of "Tone and Intonation on the Recorder" by Kottick on its way to me. Thanks for everyone's help. (Karlmann)

I am looking for a 6-key "simple system" piccolo fingering chart. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, pkingslea (anonymous)

I've never seen one specifically for piccolo. The standard (and many variant)8-key flute systems should serve as a good starting point - there won't be much difference save for no C foot. There are also French 5 or 6key fingering systems available. See Rick Wilson's site www.oldflutes.com/ and/or www.wfg.woodwind.org/. Good luck! (Jem Hammond)

I do not play flute but I would like to build a 6 key Irish flute out of copper pipe. Are there free specifications for the placement and diameter of the holes? (anonymous)

Hello everyone, my name is Allen and I'm building a renaissance transverse flute. I'm trying to perform undercutting on the toneholes, but first, I want to know what exactly are the SOUTH/NORTH,and EAST/WEST sides of the toneholes? Is this in respect to the flute standing up on the bottom and the top facing upward (to the sky)? Or is this in respect of the flute in the sideways position (like I'm actually playing the flute, from left to right)? Your advise and info is greatly appreciated? many thanks. (anonymous)

Hi everyone, I'm not sure if my message was sent successfully last time, but I'll try again to make sure I send the message correctly, anyway... Does anyone one know what the south/north, east/west sides of the tone holes of the flute are? I'm building a rensiassance transverse flute, and I am about to perfrom some undercutting on certain tone holes...which sides are north/south, east/west? I want to know for sure of what's what. Are the sides of the toneholes in respect of the flute facing skyward (flute bottom end facing upward)? Or is this in respect to the flute positioned sideways direction (from left to right)? Thanks. --Allen (email: nomadicquest1@yahoo.com) (anonymous)

Hi. I just started making a wooden F flute according to Mark Shep's flute making guide. However, I'm a little confused about the placement of the wholes. Apparently, the stopper is supposed to be placed about one third the length of the diameter away from the mouth whole, but I measured this distance in my other flutes and it is much larger, so I'm not sure if this is correct. Also, I don't know how far this should be from the top end of the flute. Also, about the percentages used to measure the placement of the finger holes: you multiply the length of the flute from the mouthhole, AFTER the stoper is placed and the headjoint is finished, by the percentages given for each of the finger holes to find the distance from the center of the mouthhole to the center of those fingerholes...right? (anonymous)

Flute Dealers

Does anyone know any good woodenflute dealers in Quebec (CANADA)for new or used woodenflutes? Any suggestion of a good flute in D with 6keys at around 1000 Can$? (VeroSt-Louis)

buy one of sam murray in belfast Ireland for around 700 pounds but there is a long waiting list (anonymous)
As the above answer would have you believe, most flute makers in the woodenflute directory will ship all over the world. A lot of the wooden flutes sold in normal music shops are mass-produced in Pakistan or other places, and won't necessarily give you the range and depth of a hand crafted flute. (Spirawk)
I'm not in Canada, but will sell to you there subject to the usual sensible transaction safeguards! Please feel fee to contact me on jemhammond@yahoo.co.uk to see if I have (or can get) anything suitable for you. I'm dealing in a small way in antique flutes at the low-to-mid range in the market, restoring reasonably decent instruments and selling them in playing condition. Less risky than eBay, especially if you don't know how to tell what you are bidding on! Have a look at these links re: flutes I have sold/am selling. http://jemtheflute.faces.com/Photos/3254277/Flute+#002/ http://jemtheflute.faces.com/Photos/3254377/Flute%20%23003/ http://jemtheflute.faces.com/TuneFeeds/ (Jem Hammond)

Can anyone tell me how to get more information about an Irish Flute maker named DeKeyzer? (anonymous)

Look in www.saintchartier.com Phil Bleazey (Phil Bleazey)
I have just bought a De Keyzer flute. It is a pretty good flute, with an accurate sound. (vudelf)
I too have a De Keyzer flute but know nothing about the maker! (chris.flute) (chris.flute)
I have just bought a flute from Arie de Keyser who has a workshop in the grounds of Malahide Castle, north of Dublin. He is apparently working on a website which will be available soon. Steve Griffiths (Steve)
I know an Irish flute maker named Arie De Keyzer. His adress is : Vurtgen 17, 9940 Evergem, Belgium. Telephone number : 0032 / 9 253 27 38. (anonymous)
I have a flute made by a DeKeyser who lives just north of Dublin (Malehide). (anonymous)
Try doing an internet search of the name and see what you come up with (Sarah)
you can usually find Arie De Keyzer in Hughes Pub by thr Four Courts in Dublin listening to tunes any Saturday or Suday night. (anonymous)
just bought 'A De Keyser' D keyless flute from Marcus Music Belfast..fantastic, loud, accurate very focused sound. Handsome instrument too, he's either used Rosewood or crocus with brass tuning slide and thingamy bits. It's completely superior to older De Keyser flutes I heard a couple of years ago.. Previously played a 'Des Seery' composite model, great,responsive flute and many hours spent playing.Newly aquired Keyser flute has both an equally powerful(if not slightly sweeter) sound and is easier to fill..RESULT!! (anonymous)

where can i get a cheap, decent bohem system wooden flute? (anonymous)

. Firstly, wood piccolos and more specifically, wood piccolo headjoints have generally been considered superior in sound to their metal counterparts, and therefore have never fallen from favor. Flutes are another story as metals have generally been acknowledged as being sonically and structurally superior for most musical requirements. But wood flutes, whether pre-Boehm or modern have a seductive sound all their own which metal cannot duplicate. It is this unique wood sound technically called timbre that has of recent lured flutists back to a renewed interest in wood. And since wood headjoints give a metal flute much of the timbre of an all wood instrument, wood heads are of particular interest. (Antoniu)

I HAVE RECENTLY ACQUIRED A HAWKES AND SON 6 KEY AFRICAN BLACKWOOD Bb FLUTE WITH A BAKELITE MIDDLE PIECE WITH A QUEENS CROWN AND LETTERS A Z UNDERNEATH IT CAN ANYBODY TELL ME THE VALUE OF THIS FLUTE AS I THINK IT IS A GOOD AGE THANKS JANE (anonymous)

jane i have info on hawkes i could scan to you, you can contact me on dq009d0295@blueyonder.co.uk (david) (anonymous)
Jane I would like to purchase your 6 key crown a-z my e mail is briancrossett@hotmail.com (Brian Crossett)
Contact me by email for details of your flute on downie8@blueyonder.co.uk Derek (Derek)

Does anyone have information about any contemporary makers of conical wood Boehm system flutes with ring keys? I own several lovely playing copies but they are pitched at A=435, and would like to acquire or have one built to A=442. Thank you. (anonymous)

Looking for to purchase flutes Wanted instruments are; Hawkes and Sons Crown A/Z B flat 6 key flutes, made in either ebony or african blackwood and E flat piccolos again 6 keys in ebony or african blackwood,with the makers name, denman street, piccadilly circus, London with a picture of a crown and the letters A/Z, any information gratefully received. Thank you Derek (Derek)

TRY OLD BOYS BRIGADE FLUTE BANDS IN LONDON THESE FLUTE ARE QUITE COMMON IN LONDON (anonymous)

I am considering to order an Eugene Lambe five keyed flute. Unfortunately the maker ceased his webpage - I hope so much he didn't stop making flutes.(Does somebody know his e-mail address?) Could anybody tell me how much does cost a five keyed flute of his? Could somebody tell me how long is the waiting period? How much I should pay in advance to start the waiting time? Does anybody know that in which style he makes his flutes (Rudall and Rose, Pratten or something else)? (Bennet) (anonymous)

I'm curious if you found your answer. I own a Eugene Lambe flute that I'm trying to find a fair value for as I'd like to sell it. I ordered it directly from him around 1978 and was a kid then. Never did learn to play as I dreamed. Thanks. Andrea Mitchell andrea@donobi.net USA (anonymous)
Andrea... I may be interested in this Lambe flute. Is it keyless? Please contact me at acwfifer@aol.com if you're still interested in selling. I attempted to contact you, but the email did not go through at your address. Thank you. Wendy (anonymous)

WANTED HAWKES AND SON MAKERS LONDON CROWN A Z, BB, E FLAT F, B FLAT, E FLAT AND F PICCOLOS AND EXCELSIOR SONOROUS, SUPERIOR AND FIRST CLASS FLUTES, dq009d0295@blueyonder.co.uk (DAVID) (anonymous)

I have a Hawkes and Son Excelsior Sonorous Class flute in ebonite and a Hawkes and Son Excelsior Sonorous Class piccolo with open G# also in ebonite. I am trying to find some information about these instruments and what they might be worth. They are both in excellent condition. Can anyone help? Thanks! sphynxpad-2004@yahoo.co.uk (Jim)

Does anyone have the phone number for Paul Wright, a flute dealer from Maghull, Merseyside. Matter of some urgency. Please contact Tom on 07752606386. Thanks a lot! (tomleedale)

I want to find out the kinds of wood used for irish flutes in New Zealand, Ireland and Europe---Other than the usual, things that are a little less known! Could someone help me? (anonymous)

Flute Model History

W.Wheatstone flutes. I have one (8key Cocus? with fairly small holes). Cant find any info. regarding William Wheatstones flutes, or the man himself. Anyone out there know anything???????????? Cheers! (Mat Stephens)

I have a wooden flute manufactured by William Hall & Son of New York (the manufacturer's information is engraved on the first of four sections of the flute). I would like to learn about the flute's history and its value if any. The condition of the flute is questionable. (anonymous)

Made between 1848 and 1875 according to Hamilton's book. Value will depend on many variables, especially condition! (Mat Stephens)
There is quite a bit of good information on William Hall at Terry McGee's excellent website: http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Hall.htm. (greylarsen)

I have an old wooden flute with the name "Douglas Flute Company" on it and an address of 7 South Street London. The wood seems to be ebony with a couple of cracks in it however a professor of mine seems to think it may have value because of it's interesting fingering mechanics (i.e. not standard or boehem). I have found nothing out about it through extensive internet research. Any info. would be appreciated. (anonymous)

I have seen two or three 8-key simple system flutes stamped "Douglas". They were all pretty bog-standard German made later C19th flutes- the usual German metal domes on the head and foot etc. Not bad players, but only ever amateur grade instruments. Many music shops in Britain and the USA imported unmarked German made flutes and stamped them with their own shop stamp. Unfortunately many modern Boehm flautists know very little about the history and development of the instrument, but the wonder of the Internet is that one can get at information so much more easily! If my surmises are right (can't be sure unless see instrument), the key/fingering system won't be particularly "interesting" or unusual, just standard "simple system" or one of the many late C19th hybrids. (Jem Hammond)

I am looking for an instruction manual for a Hohner Konzert wooden flute acquired in the early 70's in Germany. It has seven keys/holes with the bottom two having both a regular and smaller hole. It looks somewhat like a pennywhistle. It is in mint condition, having been boxed and never played. I would like to learn how to play it. Would appreciate any help you care to offer. Thank you (anonymous)

What you have sounds like it could possibly be a recorder. You can get fingering charts for these at local music shops or online. They are not terribly difficult to play and sound lovely. Good luck! (anonymous)

Can anyone explain the difference between a Rudall & Rose and a Pratten style flute? On discussion boards, people talk about them as if one is Venus and the other is Mars, but I can't tell if the difference is keys, fingerings, pitch, construction, or what have you. Are there other styles? Boehm, I guess (which I'm quite familiar with). Is keyless considered a fourth style compared to the three I just mentioned? (Spirawk)

A Pratten style flute is a big bore flute, it takes a lot of wind to fill them properly and they are loud (there is some stamina involved playing these flutes). The Rudall & Rose is not as big a bore and not as loud but by no means a quiet flute. Thats about as simple as I can get it. (VA)

I have two 8 key wooden flutes whose age I would like to determine. Can anyone please help? 1) EXCELSIOR SONOROUS CLASS HAWKES & SON MAKERS DENMAN STREET PICADILLY CIRCUS LONDON 6073 2) BOOSEY & CO MAKERS 205 REGENT STREET LONDON 14120 R.S. PRATTEN'S PERFECTED The Hawkes is in D and the Boosey in Eb Thanks, Chris (Chris Corbett)

Chris; I have been told that the modern makers, Boosey and Hawkes, have kept all the old records for Boosey flutes, and maybe they would also have the records for Hawkes. A friend of mine was able to date his Boosey 8-key by this method and he got a copy of the workshop log-book entries for his flute. .....Mike Meyerstein (Mike Meyerstein)
The records of Boosey & Hawkes and their predecessor companies are now in the possession of the Horniman Museum (qv - do a net search and find their site, which has all necessary links) in London. I have recently (late July 04) made a similar query myself and had a very helpful reply from Dr. Strauchen, Asst. Keeper of musical instruments, according to whom the archival material is currently undergoing conservation and microfilming, but should be returned to the museum and become available for detailed research by next winter. Good luck! (Jem Hammond)

I have purchased a wooden flute at an estate sale that I know nothing about. It says "Melodia" on a ribbon/bow type insignia, it has "C" and "L.F." carved below that, and also "Made In Germany". It looks similar to a dark rosewood. The head seems to be make out of a hard dark plastic, the rest is wood. There are twelve (12) nickel (?) keys. Any information about the maker or value? It does not have any cracks that I can find. It does have some green film on the keys and springs. What should I use to clean it with. Must it be rehydrated before playing it? Thanks. (Murdock)

The C simply means that it is a flute in 6-finger D (C with the C# and C levers depressed). L.F. is more likely to be L.P. (Low Pitch) which probably means that it is pitched about 440 (as opposed to the high pitch around 450 or higher) Probably best to remove the keys before cleaning with any good metal cleaner. And break the flute in by playing for fifteen minutes then swabing the flute. Do that for a week and then increase by five minutes increments. I have a flute stamped Melodia, but mine has a metal headjoint with a bakelite embouchure plate. Keys are also tarnished green and I have not got around to restoring it yet - new pads are also likely needed. I paid about $100 for it. These flutes are likely to have been made in the early 20th century - up to 1920. (anonymous)

I have an old wooden flute with 12 keys and six open finger holes, breaks down into 3 parts 1st part is mouth peice 2nd is 1st 3 holes and six keys 3rd part is last 3 holes and six keys with I think is a low b key(part of the six keys) can anyone give me any info on it Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (ben_rouse@hotmail.com) I can email a photo if there is anyone kind enought to help. Thanks (Ben Rouse)

I just had a George Cloos fife fall into my lap, and I was wondering if I could get some help dating it and maybe figuring it's value. The only markings are "Geo. Cloos" in an arch over "Crosby" and "" below that. The silver(?) ends were apparently loose and someone used scraps of newspaper to tighten them. On the paper was part of an article describing the digirible Shanandoah going down in a severe storm whichI've discovered was in 1925 so I figure it has to be at least that old. (anonymous)

I have recently aquired an 11 key foute by the maker Aefisoher Bremen. Does anyone know anything about this maker? Thanks: Jack Devereux (anonymous)

I have an old black wooden flute 650mm long with 8 possibly silver keys. It is a 4 piece instrument. The markings on it appear to be C H.P * DALBERT & CO. PARIS * Could anybody with any info about this treasure please email me. Thanks from Australia erincat@bigpond.com (anonymous)

I have acquired a wooden flute with metal keys and a metal bore. It was made by Montague Bros & Co., Makers, 65 Goldsmiths Row, London & Branches and the model is "Philharmonic Class" This is all that I know, It's in a very old wooden box with metal hinges and plays beautifully. I am trying to find out as much about it as possible. Can anyone give me some information on the maker and the flute? All info'greatfully received!! (anonymous)

I have acquired a wooden flute with metal keys and a metal bore. It was made by Montague Bros & Co., Makers, 65 Goldsmiths Row, London & Branches and the model is "Philharmonic Class" This is all that I know, It's in a very old wooden box with metal hinges and plays beautifully. I am trying to find out as much about it as possible. Can anyone give me some information on the maker and the flute? All info'greatfully received!! (anonymous)

I have a woooden flute. The markings on the foot joint read "Metzler & Co, 37 Great Marlborough St, London". It has 8 silver keys and a conical bore. I believe it is made of rosewood. I'm looking for any information regarding its manufacture and value. Thanks! (anonymous)

I recently came across a wooden flute with a headjoint made of ivory (?). The name is worn and my best guess is: l B Maleck & Co Chicago, IL There is no serial #. It looks to be Grenadilla and has silver mechanism (six hole). Has a beautiful sound and plays in tune. It looks like the flute on this webpage, below ony it has a ivory head joint. Does anyone have any information about this flute? (anonymous)

I recently acquired an old wooden eight-key Irish flute. But there are no markings that I can see to tell me who made the flute and where it came from. It needs a few repairs and general restoration, and I'm trying to determine if it's worth the cost of such work. If it were a reputable maker, wouldn't the company's name be engraved somewhere on the flute? (anonymous)

I recently acquired an old wooden eight-key Irish flute. But there are no markings that I can see to tell me who made the flute and where it came from. It needs a few repairs and general restoration, and I'm trying to determine if it's worth the cost of such work. If it were a reputable maker, wouldn't the company's name be engraved somewhere on the flute? (anonymous)

E-mail me a picture to jemhammond@yahoo.co.uk and I'll tell you what I can or point you in the right direction. (Jem Hammond)

I have found a keyless flute, and am told it is a Camac, made in France. Does anybody have any information on this brand of flute? Thanks. (anonymous)

Sorry to say, but it is not a flute. Although Camac sells good harps, my recommendation is to avoid their flutes. (anonymous)

Flute cases

I don't have a question, and find posting to this site a little odd, but anyway. I just received my custom made flute case from Dave Migoya and it is a beautiful precision cut piece of work. I had Dave cut the forms for Casey Burns wooden flute (3 pieces) and an O'Riordan concert set D/C. This case seems to be able to stand some abuse while protecting your instrument. It was delivered in the time frame Dave specified (ten days upon receit of funds). I played with Dave when he worked here in Detroit and he is very conscienous of his work and professionalism. The case is an excellent product. Get Dave's address, email etc from the members list. (Mark)

Howdy, I recently purchased a German made wooden flute with open tone holes and many silver keys. It was sold without a case and now I would like to find one. It has four pieces and measures about 28" assembled. Anyone have or know of a vintage flute case for sale that might work? You may reply here if you choose: sevenish1@yahoo.com Thanks Randy Howard (anonymous)

you could go 2 Hammy Hamiltons website..I ordered one of his, rigid black aluminium framed cases.Were I live is considered part of the U.K when it comes to postage. Hamilton Flutes is in Ireland, Co Cork to be precise.I recieved the case within 4working days of having contacted him by email and posted the cheque.. (anonymous)

History and information

I have a V Kohlert sons maker graslitz bohemia flute. LP C the serial number is 229917. Do you know the year this specific instrument was made and any other information? Please e-mail me at Imilani1@yahoo.com Thank you (anonymous)

I have a V Kohlert sons maker graslitz bohemia flute. LP C the serial number is 229917. Do you know the year this specific instrument was made and any other information? Please e-mail me at Imilani1@yahoo.com Thank you (anonymous)

I am seeking information on Gottfried H. Huller (Schoneck)and the instruments produced by his company in Germany. Specifically a 1943 clarinet. Lpastorek@hotmail.com (anonymous)

My aunt and I have recently discovered that there is limited information available on the internet regarding our former family business GH Huller in Schoneck. I am the great grand daughter of Gottfried H Huller and the grand daughter of Hermann Huller. My aunt, mother and uncle who are his children are all living in Canada. None of us own any of the instruments because of the war and I have been looking for some time to find one in a price range that we can afford. While an instrument in working condition would be lovely, if the cost is too high we would rather have anything as an historical piece for our family. If you have any information or could give me direction, I would be most appreciative. Also I have a little bit of information about the business for those who are interested. Thank you. Alexandra (anonymous)

Hi, I don't know how long ago this was posted, or if you are still interested, but I just listed a Huller flute on ebay. I found this message by doing a search to find info on G H Huller. If you go to ebay and click the search for item #2536269449. You can also do a search by my user name, youwantourstuff. Steve (anonymous)

Hunting information on John Grey & Sons London Instrument makers . Possibly flutes and bagpipes around 1900-1920.Any info appreciated . Thanks (Mac)

I am looking for background information on a flute that has been in the family for at least 50 years, uncared for and unplayed. It is a dark wood (red-brown) 3 piece 4 brass-keyed instrument with manufacturer's mark on each piece -Manzane, London. It would have had 5 bands of ivory/bone, but only 2 remain. Does anyone know its likely age and the type of wood Mr Manzane made it from. (anonymous)

Are you sure of the maker's name spelling? MONZANI was a London flute maker in the early C19th - I'm sure there are people on here far more expert than me on such subjects. The wood is most likely "cocuswood". Keys on flutes of any design that are not made of real silver are usually made of a cupro-nickel alloy known as "German Silver"; they are not brass. Apparently mis-spelt maker's name stamps are often a sign of a cheap/lower quality maker trying to pass their work off as by the owner of the genuine marque, or at least associating themselves to it, without actually making themselves liable to prosecution. Good luck with your info search. (Jem Hammond)

I have a wooden flute and am trying to find any information I can on it, it has on it Starck Barnes&Sons West Norwood London,it is in 3 pieces has 6 open holes 5 keys thought to be silver or silver plated,any information would be appreciated (anonymous)

I have a blackwooden flute also made by the same co with the same markings, although mine comes in 2 pieces, has six holes and plays in F#. Have you managed to find out any further information about yours ie its age etc? (Ali)

This question is not about a wooden flute, but I thought maybe someone would possibly have some information about a flute I just purchased. The keyless flute is made of metal (nickel-plated brass) with removable headjoint. The headjoint has a flat round embouchure made of bakelite. It has six holes and tuned in Bb (I think). There are no markings anywhere that I can see, such as serial number or maker. It has been used though - there are several wear marks. My husband and I thought maybe it was manufactured for a fife and drum corp. Not sure. If anyone has any info on a flute of this kind, please respond. (Pnickies)

Can anyone tell me the history of the simple system piccolo as it pertains to Irish Traditional Music? When they were used, when they went out of favor, and why? Any suggested reference material would be appreciated. (anonymous)

I recently aquired an 8-key wooden flute and was wondering if anyone had any information on the the company it was made by. There is a very light marking on it that reads: D (then under that) Cary (then under that) London. There is also a letter "P" stamped on the bottom of the low C# key. The person I bought it from said it was made in the mid 1800's. Any info would be helpful, thanks! (e-lot)

It`s possible that the flute you speak of would be a contempory of one of the flutes I own. They are given the generic name of London quays flutes, made between the early half of the 1800`s to the middle. Made from mostly caucous wood with hallmarked solid silver keys. Any easy way to get an estimate age would be to have a jeweller assess the date stamps. However dont take the dates you`re given as gospel. It was common for makers to have silver on these flutes that pre-dated the actual age of the instrument itself. (anonymous)

I have an old (ca 1920?) piccolo (ebony with silver metal parts) made bij F. Hofinger Bruxelles. Logo is a 6 pointed star. Can anyone mail me with the history of this firm and as well give me an idea of the price for which I could sell it? Thanks, Jan (Netherlands) (anonymous)

KRUSPE FLUTE: I have a wooden flute with the markings: "CKRUSPE ERFURT 471 C". As to further markings: Each of the 3 pieces of the flute has been labelled by Kruspe. There are insignias: A butterfly with a 'C' in one wing and a 'K' in the other wing. Each piece also has a little dot to line up the adjoining piece. The case has an emblem on the bottom but it is hard to decipher. From what I can see, it is a Star in the middle of a circle surrounded by smaller stars and a word, but I can't make out the word. It was my Grandfather's flute when he was in the Danish Army during the 1st World War. I am hoping that someone is aware of the Kruspe Flutes. I am interested in knowing how or where would I go to learn more about this flute and determine its age. Also, I'd like to determine who made it (Carl Kruspe Sr. or his sons)? etc. Their company 'C Kruspe' was apparently sold in 1920 to G. H. Huller Company of Schoneck. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. (CdnSinding)

Please reference "http://www.oldflutes.com/articles/schwedler.htm". Introduced M. Schwedler, who was principal flautist of the Gewandhaus Orchestra and was coincided with the flute maker Kruspe, in great detail. (kagura minima)

I have a very beautiful connical bore, rosewood body, nickle plated head and tuning barrel, with a bakelite embouchure, 10 Key simple system flute with the name "Lehne & Komp, Hannover" stamped prominently on both of the wood body parts. It is in almost perfect condition with the most classicaly beautifully grained rosewood and gently beveled tone holes. The keys all appear to be German Silver and it has serial number 394 stamped just below the upper tenon joint. I have not been able to find any information on my flute....would someone please give me a helping hand...thanks....jasbenj (Jerry Schurr) (Jasbenj2)

I purchased what it seems to be a rosewood fife (14.75 inches)made by Henry Potter & Co with the adress 36-38 West Street Charing Cross London (marks on both pieces). It looks to be Ok, however the crown it's missing. How can I date it(approximatly)? And should I try to get a rosewood crown? (Gil)

Hello - I have inherited a piccolo, an instrument I know nothing about. It has not been kept in a case but seems quite clean and intact and is marked Hawkes & Son with their address and the number 5212 marked on each of the three pieces. It is just under 1' long and has six 'holes'. I would rather it belong to someone who would appreciate it but obviously want to receive a fair price for it. I have no idea on this so can someone out there help me please with approximate date & value. Elizabeth (anonymous)

If you can send me more details and a picture i will give you a rough idea how much it is worth. Hawkes & sons made several different class of piccolos,Excelsior Sonorous Class, First Class and Crown AZ. Contact me at brwnk994@aol.com Kenny (anonymous)

I am looking for infomation about a wooden flute I was able to aquire recently. It is three sections, grenadilla, 6 holes and 6 keys. Maker is E. Kleinert, Breslau. Can anyone supply information on maker and era? Your help will be greatly appreciated. (Jerry)

How do you clean and lubricate the telescoping tuning slides? I have a well-worn C. Pelubet 4-key flute with lots of big cracks, and am trying to get it going as best as I can. I'd also love to hear from other Pelubet owners! Greg the Pianotuner (Greg the Piano Tuner)

My mother bought a type of flute for me about two weeks ago because she thought it was a piccolo that I could use in marching band, but when it got here it was described as a small flute. I looked all over the net for three hours and think that the flute is really a fife, but still not really sure. Could someone please help me out and tell me what kind of flute this is and if there is any way I can learn to play it? It comes in two pieces a head and body and is obviously wooden. There are four keys (I'm guessing nickle), a thumb, two pinky keys, and a key between middle and ring finger on the right hand. It is a J. Wallis & Son with a lyre on the head joint. Someone please help me out. (anonymous)

(anonymous)

I bought a wooden (ebony/grenadilla?) Boehm system flute about fifteen years ago at a folk festival. It has nickel/silver keys and a lovely sound. It has the name Madson or Medson engraved on the body and I have not been able to find anything out about it. Has anyone heard of this manufacturer? Thanks Nicky xxx (anonymous)

Hello, I am new to Irish flute, so I have some questions.... 1. My flute is a simple 6-hole flute, plus 1 key, (7th) hole. It is about 15" long, made of very dark, wood, 2 pieces, and is marked LONDON IMPROVED PD. I believe it is about 1850 circa. Can anyone tell me more about the history of this flute? Is PD the makers initials (I'm guessing). 2. I have notices some longer, keyless flutes add a 7 & 8th hole. I'm wondering what these do, since they cannot be reached easily, and there are no keys like on a Bohem system. 3. Does anyone know of an Irish Flute teacher in the Indianapolis, IN area? Thanks very much, Chris in Indy (jeanmario)

Learning

I am a beginning Irish flute player in Indianapolis, Indiana. I also play the Concert flute and piccolo. Does anyone know of a Irish/Wooden flute teacher in my area? (anonymous)

Grey Larsen is in Bloomington IN (an hour south of you). I have taken several lessons from him, and played at many sessions with him at Borders. He is very good. His web site(http://www.greylarsen.com/) has contact info. An interview with Grey is at http://www.sover.net/~bhurley/larsen.html Best, Diana (Diana)
Please see my website (brand new- under construction) for note-for-note transcriptions of Irish traditional music performances. This is how I learned uilleann pipes and timber flute without a teacher in my area.
The url is FlyingPiper.com
http://flyingpiper.com
Also, I am running a promotion on eBay. Here is one of the auctions, please check it out:
http://search.yahoo.com/bin/search?p=%22safety+paper%22
or search for item #152248593
or search for Molloy Tarbolton Irish Flute (any or all of those words)
Tom flyingpiper.com (Phiobaire)
Hi, Please let me know if you find a teacher in Indy, as I am also interested. Thanks, Chris chrisdeis@comcast.net (jeanmario)

I'm seeking a teacher in Belfast. Not necessarily for WOODEN flute as unfortunately I have to stick with my conventional one until I can play better! Can anyone help? (anonymous)

yes francis mcpeakes at st john the baptists finaghy road nort on wednesday nights or barney secondary school on the antrim road on thursday nights (anonymous)
Wooden flute and "conventional" flutes are different with respect to embouchure and finger position.This may not help, but hinder your ability to play the wooden flute. Just a thought, but maybe a helpful one. I started on silver flute when I was 7 years old and had to unlearn some habits. That took alittle while. Luckily I was younger when forced to rid myself of these habits. (Brett Lipshutz)
Wooden flute and "conventional" flutes are different with respect to embouchure and finger position.This may not help, but hinder your ability to play the wooden flute. Just a thought, but maybe a helpful one. I started on silver flute when I was 7 years old and had to unlearn some habits. That took alittle while. Luckily I was younger when forced to rid myself of these habits. (Brett Lipshutz) (Brett Lipshutz)
Davy Maguire , Cresent Art centre, Belfast..New term commencing soon , courses run for ten weeks ..beginners intermediate and advanced catered for, small class sizes! Other instruments taught include Uillean pipes, Fiddle,Concertina,Whistle,Guitar accompaniment for Irish traditional music, Music theory and Irish/set dancing also feature..+end of term concerts to showcase your talents!! theres also art ,language and culture classes.. (anonymous)

I am a beginner and bought an irish type polymer flute in D but my hands are so small my fingers will never cover the holes easily enough to ever play it.Any advice on a future purchase of an inexpensive D flute i can play or am i destined to switch to a fife (calde)

Am a beginner myself, but have just discovered that Casey Burns produces (in the US) a flute for small hands - not cheap at about �625 pounds sterling for a keyless flute - but he seems to be the only one and people speak incredibly highly of his flutes. address : //kendaco.telebyte.com/cburns/ And don't give up - others among us have the same problem. !!! (Cathy )
Hi! I too am a beginner and have a Seery polymer (delrin) keyless flute in D and find the finger spcing a bit much but it is getting better as I practice. I too am told to BE PATIENT. This is a common problem. Karen - Ohio USA (Karen McCurdy - Ohio)
Casey Burns makes an excellent flute. You get more than what you pay for. His design is great for people with small hands or for people with broken paws like mine. When Casey made mine he offered to rework the mid section until we had placements that my hands could deal with. We struck gold the first time around. Bob - Derry, NH - USA ()
Casey Burns makes an excellent flute. You get more than what you pay for. His design is great for people with small hands or for people with broken paws like mine. When Casey made mine he offered to rework the mid section until we had placements that my hands could deal with. We struck gold the first time around. Bob - Derry, NH - USA ()
WInd Dancer Folkwinds specializes in inexpensive, but very attractive and good sounding PVC flutes which are great for small hands. www.folkwinds.com (Folkwinds)
I just bought a Calmont flute. It is polymer, has a large bore-so smaller spred for the tone holes, plays very well in tune, and is tunalble. But fife/picc wouldn't be a bad chose either. I find I play my Sweetheat fife more at sessions than anything else. It cuts through a loud session better than my whistle or flute, espesially in the lower register!!! Dan H. (anonymous)

I AM CURRENTLY PLAYING TIN WHISTLE AND WOULD LOVE TO START PLAYING THE FLUTE. WHATS A GOOD STARTER FLUTE FOR ME ( A NICE ONE) (anonymous)

m and E polymer flute is great -Brian (PURCEY)
Try Brian Byrne flutes - He's in Vermont. (anonymous)
desi seery in ennis. contact custysmusic.ie ()
Buy one of the used Casey Burns that are for sale. They have closer finger spacings than the Pratten pattern (but still fairly wide). This will help you get used to an Irish flute, and your hands to stretch so you don't develop hand problems. Get one with a tuning slide as well. - Alfy (alfy)
I would sugest you try piccolo. Ralph sweet makes a nice affordable one with interchangable picc and whistle heads. Dan H. (anonymous)

I'm a flute player living in Sydney .. looking for a teacher or somebody to practice with ... can anybody help? Thanks - Micealo (Micealo)

Hey Micealo. I too am a flute player, living in Sydney - City. It would be nice to practice and learn from each other. You can contact me at craig1900@hotmail.com Cheers! Craig. ) (anonymous)

I am a beginning Irish flute player in Esslingen, Germany. (Keyless 8 hole D Flute). Does anyone know of a Irish flute player, who can help me a little bit in lerning it, in my area? (jens)

There is a woman in Recklinghausen in Westphalia called Lisa Lochthowe who is a recognised and well experienced flute teacher.Her phone number is 02361 12311. Gnarlybird (gnarlybird)
Christoph Zimmerli http://www.prova.ch/lehrer/zimmerli_ch.html Winterthur ist doch viel n�her wie Westfahlen Gruss Urs B�gli (Urs)

I love the sound of wooden flutes and I really want to learn to play one. I can play a concert flute and picollo already, are the Boehm style flutes played in the same way with the same fingerings? I will probably have to learn on my own at first seeing as I live in a small town and I would like to start off with something I know I will be able to get started with.. (anonymous)

Try Tulou Method. You can find an English traslation in http://www.i-gadgets.com/bookstore/books-flute.html (anonymous)
I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
Boehm flute fingering doesn't know if it's "in D" or "in C" (hence better chromatic facility). Standard "concert flutes" with "simple system" (4-8 key) fingering, Baroque flutes with 1 key and "Irish" flutes with no keys are all "in D"; i.e. the six-finger note (xxx xxx) is D above middle C and removing fingers sequentially till all are lifted, then "going over the break" to oxx xxx will give a scale of D major. The main thing Boehm flute players therefore have to contend with is that their F-natural fingering (xxx xoo) gives F# and C-natural (xoo ooo)gives B. A full standard fingering chart for the 8 key concert flute can be found in the front of what used to be a commonly used intermediate level flute tutor published by Boosey and Hawkes, by one Otto Langey (it also gives Radcliffe &/or 1867 (? I think) model fingerings as well as both open G# and closed G# Boehm charts!) If you alredy play the tin-whistle, you'll have no problem, and it really ain't that bad.... Did it meself about 20 years ago, and have hardly touched my poor old Boehm flute since! A combination of scale practice and just playing tunes will do the trick. Go for it, and good luck. (Jem Hammond)
I've got a German 12 keyed simple system conical wooden flute. I played Boehm system wooden flute long time too. But now i entirely practice simple system one. As FOR ME, "18 Exercices ou Etudes pour la Fl�te" by Berbiguier, "17 Grands exercices journaliers de m�canisme" by Taffanel et Gaubert --- probably you have practiced both exercises on Boehm system flute --- and some orchestra studies (from Baroque to modern) are effective. It is important to practice slowly with a metronome until i get familiarity with the passages. Difficulties distinguished from Boehm's one are 1) Treatment of left thumb Bb key. I play with usual releasing left thumb from the instrument except when the Bb key is opened for the benefit of rapid movement. So, i back up the instrument with right thumb from behind (not from underneath) of it, with holding up elbows slightly high. A long time ago, when i was a boy my flute (Boehm system) teacher taught me this holding. Further he said "high head, low-lying shoulders" (Hans=Peter Schmitz wrote "Hoch Kopf, tief Schulter" in his method of flute). This holding and position was not effective FOR ME on Boehm system very much, but now. 2) Treatment of the long F key. My hands are too small to treat it well, so it is fundamental for me to practice the exercises slowly and carefully. Further above-mentioned position helps me to treat long F key well too. But in case of extremely fast passage or repeated appearing of long F, now i use folk F against my will (e.g. "3.Akt from Falstaff" by G.Verdi). 3) Fis4(5) are flat, so i must use regular fingering with opening F key wherever possible. 4) Fingering of 3rd octave's notes are not only highly-strung for Eb key but also a lot of notes must be played with closing the key. e.g. G6, (Gis6), A6 and Bb6. It makes difficult to play 3rd octave. But practicing patiently above exercises brought solutions. Depending on the circumstances, playing 3rd octave on simple system flute is easier. (e.g. Fractions of "Pas de six, Variation I from Swan Lake" by P.I.Tchaikovsky on simple system flute is easier than with Boehm one). 5) C5(6) OXO XXX Eb is relative difficult than Boehm. In case of repeated extreme fast passage, i now use OXX OOO Eb. (e.g. "Der Vogel from Peter und der Wolf" by S.Prokofieff). It is not always hot as pepper to practice simple system flute. It is delightful to practice "4.Satz from Sinfonie Nr.1 and 4.Satz from Sinfonie Nr.4" by J.Brahms and "Pr�lude � l'apr�s-midi d'un faune" by C.Debussy.. (kagura minima)

Does anyone know of wooden flute teachers in the Northamptonshire, Buckinghamshire, Oxfordshire, Bedfordshire area of England? I'm a bit desperate!! - doing lessons through Scoiltrad, but feel the need of a real person! Want someone good though, since I've been learning for 3 years and had a very good teacher previously in Norwich. (Cathy )

Help! I am very new at the irish flute and need some encouragement. I received my Seery delrin keyless about 6 weeks ago. I am also a hammered dulcimer player and we play very fast at our jam sessions. How long can I expect to feel so awkward trying to play a little faster on my flute. My hands and wrists feel so stiff. What am I doing wrong? What exercises do I need to do to relax (or strengthen/stretch) my hands and wrists. (Karen McCurdy - Ohio)

The hardest thing about being good at one thing is that we, as adults, always want to be good at everything we pick up right away. The best thing to do is to play slowly until you feel comfortable playing that way. Try to achieve a nice traditional session pace. It must be very difficult to do this when everyone else is playing fast. But one must be able to play comfortably at a fairly relaxed tempo before ripping up the tunes. As for the stretches... I had a lot of wrist and shoulder problems for a while. After a three hour set dance ceili or bar gig I was really hurting. Find a position that makes you feel like you're not going to drop the flute. Many people feel like the flute is going to fall out of their hands, and thus grip harder. Tis can happen especially if you have small hands. Also, this may sound new- agey, but there are two yoga stretches that seem to have cured my arm/wrist & shoulder tensions. Basically, you take your left arm and put it behind your back, back of the hand touching between your shoulder blades, almost right on the spine. Having accomplished this feat, you take your right arm and pull it up behind your head, palm touching the palm of the left hand. Now, if you can do this, and lots of people have to practice to get to the point of joining the hands together, then bend your fingers, those of the right hand fitting over those of the left. Pull toward your head with the right hand and toward your lower back with the left. After all of this, then switch directions putting the right hand, back touching the middle of the upper back, etc. I usually do each arm twice, letting the muscles unwind, usually about 20 seconds each arm. The other stretch is hard to explain in writing. It basically involves putting both arms, elbows straight, behind your back. Hands should point downward, palms touching. Next, using your spine as a guide turn your hands up, palms still touching, and advance them until they are in the small of your back. These take some time if one is not flexible, but they are very good for avoiding tension build up. You can also bend your arms slightly, as well as your wrists, as if you're going to type something and shake them, hands included, until " the meat falls from the bone". This last quote comes from a book called "The Art of Practicing" by Madeline Bruser. She is most definitely a piano teacher, but there are some great techniques for having a relaxed playing technique as she invites a flute teacher to discuss practicing the flute. Now, obviously the flutist is a silver flute player and some things she says are for the silver flute, but there is no harm in reading what she says. Some of it is universal in the flute world. (Brett Lipshutz)
I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)

(anonymous)

I am ready to purchase my first Irish flute after several years of playing the silver flute. I know that I want a polymer flute as the climate where I live is rather harsh. What I don't know is if I should purchase a keyless flute to start off, or if it would be better to have a few keys right from the start. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks very much! (kaeru)

I live in Raleigh, North Carolina. Does any one know of a good teacher close by? If not, what's the best way to learn how to play the wooden/Irish flute on your own? (Candy)

I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". For information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)

I'm considering getting into wooden flute but I'd be interested in finding out about players, makers and dealers in eastern Canada. Anyone have any ideas? (peter)

Well, I'm in southern new brunswick. I havn't found any other players around, but I just go out to the local sessions and play with the wistle players. Makers... I don't know. There's a guy who sells a decent beginner wooden flute (what I'm using right now) in Winterport ME, near Bangor. Send me an email if you're nearby. Craig Martin (Viich)

I have recentaly got a wooden flute (like the one at the bottom of the page, the same keys etc).Im just wondering if anyone coulde send (e-mail) me a fingering chart and more help e.g. about keys what they do, cause im cunfused. I play the normal sliver flute so im not a beginner to flutes. Please help. I would be very gratful.Thank you Fbrignull (14) P.S email- fbrignull@aol.com (anonymous)

Look at the chart available on this site under the "playing" section - v useful (Treebeard)
You can find fingering charts in Tim Reichard�s page www.wfg.woodwind.org or Terry McGee�s www.mcgee-flutes.com (anonymous)
I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a copy of the tape which is supposed to accompany Fintan Vallely's "Timber: Flute Tutor"? Walton Music seem to be selling the book having deleted the tape. Very unfair I would say! (rass)

I got mine from mally.com (anonymous)
Hobgoblin Music (www.hobgoblin.com) were selling last time I looked (Treebeard)

Hello. I just bought a piccolo with 4 keys. Could someone help me find a fingering chart for a 4-keyed flute or piccolo? Any help would be much appreciated. (David)

There is a flute tutor by Mssrs. Hugot and Wunderlich which includes a fold-out chart for a four-key flute. I'm almost positive that the book is out of print, and even if it's not, it's all in French. I found a copy in a university library. Iy's a facsimile from 1804, the date it was published. I have a copy of the fingering chart, if you would like to e-mail me perhapsI could send one to you. (Brett Lipshutz) (Brett Lipshutz)
Most of 5keyed flute fingerings will probably fit (except those with Ckey, which I suppose you lack!). Why don't you try www.mcgee-flutes.com page for fingering charts? (anonymous)

I have a Seery Delrin keyless and have struggled with it for almost a year because my hands are small and the reach is just too far. Please suggest some makers who have nice flutes for smaller hands. This is very frustrating, so much so that I have all but given up and turned to the silver flute. (Karen McCurdy - Ohio)

Casey Burns specializes in making flutes for people with small hands. Check out his website at http://www.caseyburnsflutes.com/. (greylarsen)

My sister and I are in a debate over the piccalo, I think that when you play, you hold the instrument straight down in front of you. She thinks that you hold it to the side like a flute. Could someone please let me know which way is the correct way? (anonymous)

How on earth could you get a note out of it if you hold it straight down in front of you!! (Sarah)
It's a "piccolo" (Italian for "small"!) and it is held to the side just like its big brother, the flute. (Jem Hammond)

Why won't anyone answer my question? I just want to know the correct way to hold a piccalo. (anonymous)

A piccalo is a small flute that plays an octave higher than a normal (concert) flute - so you play it to the side. (anonymous)

I'm a beginner at the Irish flute, though I have a long history of playing Irish music on fiddle, mandolin, and tinwhistle. I'm looking to find a good instructor in San Francisco or the Bay Area. Does anyone know a good player who teaches? I don't know anyone who plays flute, and don't want to learn solely from audio/video sources. Thanks--Michael. (michael)

I would suggest Jack Gilder. His email is jgilder@jps.net. I would also like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)

Hi there, I am looking for a wooden flute teacher in and around the Glasgow area? Anybody know if there is someone from the RSAMD traditional music course who could teach me? Im an experienced classical flute player, but am just new to the Irish flute. Thank you. (anonymous)

Try Kevin O Neill. kev_oneill@hotmail.com Phone: 0141 569 9436 (anon)

I HAVE JUST RECENTLY BOUGHT A dE kEYZER FLUTE IN THE KEY OF D.I AM A CLASSICALLY TRAINED FLUTE PLAYER AND AM STILL FINDING IT DIFFICULT TO PROPERLY COVER THE HOLES WHEN I PLAY. ANY TIPS OR ADIVCE? WOULD ANYBODY RECCOMEND ME GETTING SOME KEYS PUT ON IT? THANKS (Susan)

Are there any Irish wooden flute teachers / tutors in the Seattle, Washington area (north western U.S.)? (goldenwolfeyes) (anonymous)

Hi, Can anyone point me in the direction of wooden flute workshops in the UK? I have been playing dance music on a Boehm system flute for a couple of years now and am moving to a wooden flute, and am aware that I am inadequate in the embellishment department. Failing workshops, are there are any teachers in the Leeds area (or further afield - but not too far), or as a last resort can anyone recommend a good DIY-style CD and/or instruction book on embellishments? (Oidhche)

Contact me personally and I'll tell you what I can - e-mail me at jemhammond@fsmail.net. I'm based near Wrexham in N. Wales. (Jem Hammond)

Greetings, I live in Winston-Salem NC and am interested in learning how to play ITM on a flute. I have a fair amount of musical experience - highland pipes, recorders, whistles, and guitar. Can anyone recomend a competent teacher in central North Carolina? I live in the Triad but often travel to the Raleigh/Durham area. Thanks! 2nd question - if I do find a teacher and purchase a flute, I'd probably go plastic for maintenance purposes. The major synthetic makers seem to be M & E, Seery, and Dixon. Is there a huge diffeence between these instruments? Thanks! McK (McK)

I am living in Waterford Ireland and would like private or other lessons on the wooden flute.i am a beginner and would like to learn from ear as I do not read music yet. Thanks Paulo (anonymous)

I just purchased an Irish wooden flute and I cannot figure out how to hold my mouth to get any sound to come out of it. Can anyone help me? (anonymous)

I heard a recording of a Gospel song titled "My Soul Finds Rest in God Alone" and at the beginning of the song sounds like a wooden flute, but it almost has an acoustic tone to it. Is it possible to make a wooden flute acoustic? And are there any CD's with nothing but wooden flute? (Rebel_Stargazer97)

Hello there ... I'm from Sacramento California and I have always loved the music and sound of an Irish wooden flute, and all of a sudden I've got itchy fingers to try my hand in learning this lovely instrument. I am the classic, "no nothing of istruments kinda girl" so I need all the help and advice I can gather. I am looking to find a fairly inexpensive beginners flute, type and material ect... as well as where I can aquire lessons. I have always been the type to teach myself new things but I am not confident in this field whatsoever ... and clearly I'm not sure what I am getting myself into! Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!!! (MellyMel)

(anonymous)

(anonymous)

My mother bought a type of flute for me about two weeks ago because she thought it was a piccolo that I could use in marching band, but when it got here it was described as a small flute. I looked all over the net for three hours and think that the flute is really a fife, but still not really sure. Could someone please help me out and tell me what kind of flute this is and if there is any way I can learn to play it? It comes in two pieces a head and body and is obviously wooden. There are four keys (I'm guessing nickle), a thumb, two pinky keys, and a key between middle and ring finger on the right hand. It is a J. Wallis & Son with a lyre on the head joint. Someone please help me out. (anonymous)

I am keenly interested in learning Irish Flute. I am a beginner and I live in Boston, MA. Could you guys recommend a good instructor for absolute beginner around this area? Any advice is appreciated. (anonymous)

I have absolutely no idea on how to play my flute! I don't know any notes and I have a six hole wooden flute. Please help me! Can you tell me the notes for a six hole flute? What is the website talking about when it talks about Keys? (anonymous)

Maintenance

A friend recently told me that that new petroleum jelly with a high wax content (I think its made by vaseline) makes a good polish for wooden flutes. is that really true, or are we talking massive instrument damage? (MWBailey)

I Think the more complicated the mixture the more you should ask whether to do or not to do?! I only use almond oil for inside and outside. Try it and tell me. Michael Vester (Michael Vester)
Personally I don't like the feel of oily fingers when I play and prefer to oil only the inside and wax the outside of my flute. If you want to use wax, why dilute it with the grease of petroleum jelly? I use paste, non-skid, floor wax. Nice finish, good seal, not too slick. (Clark)
I believe that most veteran woodwind repair people will tell you that petroleum products should never be placed on the wood. They do not interact in a natural fashion with the lignins, and accelerate deterioration of the wood. I don't worry about polishing my flute, I just want it to sound good and last a lifetime. I treat the inside and outside with almond oil to which I've added 1% vitamin E oil as an antioxidant. I add the oil using a cotton tipped applicator (medical supply house), at a time when the flute has dried a couple of hours from the last playing - some intrinsic moisture, but not -wet-. I leave the oil on overnight and then remove the residual thoroughly with a paper towel or cotton cloth. (Larry Mallette)

What kind of 'grease' should I use on thread wrapped tenon joints? (Jay)

Normal "cork grease" does the trick. I use a home-brew mixture of beeswax and almond oil. (webmaster)
bees wax (anonymous)
Red Klister ski wax. (Mal)
Mal has a cruel sense of humour. Don't put klister on your flute! :) "cork grease" as sold for clarinets, etc, is best. It's really a soft, oily wax. JMK (anonymous)

I am hoping that even though this is a flute forum, someone might be able to assist with a question on a wooden recorder. One of the recorders in our consort goes very fuzzy (in sound) after only a short time playing. Blowing the recorder out (ie, blocking the fipple hole and giving it a firm blow) doesn't seem to be fixing it. Thinking about it, the recorder is never as clear sounding as it should be. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to clear up this congestion? (anonymous)

It probably needs to be revoiced; that is, the block needs to be removed and reshaped. The reason that it gets fuzzy is that the block swells and changes the caliber of the windway. Contact the New England Early Music Shop or Lee Collins (look on the net) for information. (anonymous)
Softer woods swell faster with the moisture from playing. If it is an inexpensive instrument, it is probably just maple and will blow out quite quickly. I hate to say it but with inexpensive recorders it is best to go with plastic, as they will never swell. (Tim)

I know this debate has been raging about oiling (or not) and what kind. Specifically, I would like to know if I were to oil my flute with a botanical oil would it go rancid over time? I do not like petroleum based oils at all. I would like to add a light coat of frankinscence, balsam fir, and lemon oil with equal parts to 1/5 part of grapeseed oil. I am not sure if this is really needed. My flutemaker recommends oiling. But, I have a cocobolo fife that I sanded down and refinished with minwax and a blowdryer 22 years ago. Other than occasionally polishing the brass ferrules, I've done no other maintenance and had absolutely no problems. (Saoirse)

looking for a supplier of pads for 6 key simple system flutes, thanks david (anonymous)

You won't find one, as such. However, most serious woodwind shops, or their in-house repairer, should have a stock of "pill" type card-backed leather pads in a range of sizes, manufactured for the modern oboe and clarinet. Whether these are suitable or adaptable for your flute depends on the type of keys fitted and their clearance above the hole. Terry McGee's site has a page on doctoring these types of pad to fit "saltspoon" type keys - I have used/adapted his method with success for my R&R. I source my (clarinet) pads, shellac for fixing them, springs, etc by mail-order from a firm called Windcraft, (www.windcraft.co.uk) who carry an enormous range of woodwind spares and materials and have an excellent on-line catalogue. (I have no link whatever to the firm, just a satisfied customer!) Incidentally, the clarinet pads are available in all sizes at 0.5mm graduations. You have to measure the interior diameters of your key cups before ordering. If your flute originally had "purse-string" type wool-stuffed leather pads, this (Terry's) method should work - you can trim, reduce or remove both the card backing and the felt wadding (I had to cut the felt in half laterally with a razor blade) in the modern pads to produce the appropriate thickness and a back shape that will fit into your keys. Alternatively, and I haven't tried this personally, you could make up purse-string pads in the original way with some very thin, soft leather, a scrap of sheeps wool and a needle and thread; though I daresay it would take a bit of practice to get sizes and tension right! If your flute has flat cupped keys, the same method of adapting clarinet pads should serve - at 3mm they are usually too thick for a C19th flute. If you have totally flat keys, square or round, then you just shellac or glue on trimmed-to-shape soft leather (butter up your local leather worker!), skin-side down (to the tone-hole), c1.5-2mm thick depending on clearance; obviously you can trim the thickness of the leather on the "flesh" side. Good luck! (Jem Hammond)

Ihave just aquired a wooden flute(Rudall,carte and co, radcliff's model no 6242) and it is in great need of attention as it hadn't been maintained for over 40 years. I am a recorder player and know how to look after the wood but the keys, i have no idea. They sound and feel crunchy (like paper)and make a noise like they are 'sticking' to the holes every time they are pressed down.Iwas wondering if I need to change them and if so how and what pads do we need to get(ie do we need original or will other pads do). (anonymous)

Hello :) I would like to know if the use of a "pad-saver" with a wooden flute is a good thing or not. Normally, this item is made for keeping dry pads in metal flutes. But I wonder if it would save a wooden flute from moisture, if such a pad-saver was left in the instrument when unused. I am not sure it is a good idea... Perhaps the effect would be to dry too much the flute, or on the contrary would let the wood in contact with the moisture impregnated in the pad-saver. So, what would you advise? (Fred Merch)

I would advise not leaving a pad-saver in any instrument when not in use, even metal ones. When I use them for my silver flute, I only leave them in for about 30 minutes, then remove them. They will do more harm than good if left any longer. Roxanne (anonymous)

Hi, Please forgive me if I have missed something that is right under my nose - but is there a forum where us newcomers can introduce ourselves? I have made and played bamboo flutes for some time and am about to receive an old Ebonite 8 key Irish flute. I'd like to refurbish it myself and have already seen a lot of information here - thanks guys But Is there anyone in the UK Midlands who could take a look to prevent me trying to fix what aint broke! (anonymous)

Origin

My father just gave me a wood and silver flute that has been in our family for many years. It has an inscription that reads: Success F.Hofinger Bruxelles 900. It also has a 6-point star engraving, seemingly part of the rest of the inscription. I would like to know the origin of this flute, and if possible, its value. It hasn't been maintained properly, but I cannot see any cracks. I would welcome any information. (Bertie)

Florent Hofinger was former employee of C.Mahillon. He founded his own firm in 1900 in Bruxelles, Belgium. He died in 1945 but his firm kept going, run by his daughter, until 1950. (Source: The New Langwill Index). (Richard Moon)
I have a Hofinger flute (wooden body, silver head, bfoot and gizmos) which I use almost all the time professionally. It has no number, and is not a 'success' model, but I bought it in excellent condition for 5000 Dutch guilders in December 1998, so maybe that helps! Opinion suggests mine might be a late 1930's or early 40's model, but we don't really know. Hofinger flutes are quite heavy, but have a nice eliptical/ oval blowing hole which seems to suit me - old romantic that I am! Certainly worth investing in repairs (in my opinion)! Dominy Clements (anonymous)

I have been given a John Grey 'Dulcetta' piccolo, in near perfect condition. Seems to be rosewood, simple system covered holes (12 keys). I'd love to know the age and approx value if it has one, though I'm not likely to sell. Any ideas? (anonymous)

What might the age of a six hole wooden flute made in three parts, with the name "Firth Pond & Co" on each part be? (anonymous)

About 1850-55 (anonymous)

I am trying to find out the history, age and value of a wooden flute I have. It says MELODIA (written on a scroll across a sun) and underneath are the letters ESH, followed by made in Germany and the intitals C L. P . I've searched the internet and have found nothing. I would appreciate any information you could give me. (RedPony40)

My grandfather, who came over from Donegal by way of Scotland around 1919 or so, died in 1933 when my father was 7 or 8. I now have his wooden flute. I am in the process of having it restored. It bears the stamp of "Geo. Closs" on both ends. Anyone know anything about this maker? Not sure if this instrument was made in the US or Europe. (Liam)

George Cloos, a German who came to New York and made flutes and fife's in Brooklyn in late 19th early 20th c. (anonymous)

I have recently purchased what appears to be a 3 key wooden piccolo. It seems to be made of rosewood but I'm not sure. It is keyed to C. The guy I bought it from said it was an antique but he didn't really know anything about it. Its around 10 inches long with metal mounts and seems to have seen alot of use. Does anyone know what this is? It is the first wooden flute I have owned. Does any one know of the value of an instrument such as this? (anonymous)

I have an old flute with a makers mark ( J.w.PEPPER AND SON ) PHILADA.PA PREMIER AND A SER#6595 I would like to learn more about this maker can any one help. Thanks Bill (anonymous)

Looking for any information on, Hy Potter & Co. 36 &38 West St, Charing + Road, London. Can not find any web sites. Looking to date flute. (Sonia)

Henry Potter Henry Potter was just one of many flutemakers working in London in the middle of the 19th century. Not as famous as Nicholson, Rudall & Rose, Boehm or Pratten, he is often confused with the earlier but seemingly unrelated William Henry Potter. Although Henry died on 31 August 1876, his company continued under his name until 1950. Henry Potter was born in 1810 (the same year as John Clinton) into a family with a solid musical background. Henry�s father Samuel Potter (1772 - 1838) had enlisted in the Coldstream Guards at the age of 14 in 1786, and eventually by 1815 had risen to the rank of Regimental Drum Major. Samuel completed 30 years service with the Guards and resigned from the army in 1817 to set up a workshop located in King Street, Westminster for the purpose of making drums and wind instruments. Samuel seems to have concentrated on instruments with a military band connotation, such as drums, bugles, fifes, horns and trumpets. He actually wrote several published treatises, one being a method for playing the fife (1815) and the other being a manual for drums, fifes and bugles (1817). Samuel�s son Henry (1810 � 1876) presumably learned about instrument making from his father, and continued the business after his father�s death in 1838. By 1841 he was well established as his father�s successor, with premises at 2 Bridge Street, Westminster. He continued in his father�s footsteps as regards the making of military instruments, but appears to have had a strong interest in flute making as well. Clearly he must have quickly built up a good reputation as a flute maker, since otherwise it is inconceivable that John Clinton would have entrusted the manufacture of the early Clinton-system flutes to him, in particular the 1851 Exhibition model. Henry Potter remained in the instrument business all his life, and his company remained active until around 1950. Henry�s son George also participated in the family business, relocating to Aldershot in 1859 at which time he established his own firm of George Potter & Co. This firm focused very much on military band instruments. This company bought the London Potter firm (see above) in 1918 and remained active into the late 1930�s. Interestingly, it has not been possible to trace any connection between the above Potter family and the �other� famous Potter flute-making dynasty of Richard Potter (1726 � 1806), his son William Henry Potter (1760 � 1848) and his grandson, Cipriani Potter of the 1851 Great Exhibition Jury. It thus seems that there were two unconnected families of Potters engaged in wind instrument production in London at the same time. There seems to be good evidence that Henry Potter was a well respected maker. Professor John Clinton made use of his services to develop and build the flute which we have studied at Clinton 1851 Flute. But here we look at a flute in Potter's own right. From the Charing Cross address, this flute dates from between 1858 and c1895. It's a very standard 8-key, in the large-holed Nicholson's style, but with the benefit of many years more refinement. The first thing that may be apparent from the image above is that the head (and to a lesser extent, the foot) are coloured differently from the body. Indeed, they appear to be rosewood, while the body appears to be cocus. The barrel is a recent replacement in blackwood. Fortunately, these differences in colour are not apparent under normal light. The parts are all (saving the barrel) stamped Henry Potter, so the seeming mixture of woods may have to remain a mystery. Also unusual is the embouchure is drilled on the "plank" cut (tangential to the tree's growth rings). Most flutes of the period appear to be radially drilled. Playing qualities So, how does it play? Very nicely. It's not the biggest style of flute (such as the Prattens Perfected), but more like a large-holed Rudall and Rose. That gives it a nice balance of volume, with a hearty bottom end and a willing second octave. Third octave is good too, and viable at least up to C''''. Usefully, the flute works well at A440Hz, apparently without flat foot syndrome. As we'll see, that's not quite the full story. Intonation Examination using our "Best Pitch" approach confirms that, while the flute is capable of reaching pitches as high as 461, it is indeed at its best around 440 Hz. Running through the most responsive indicators: low octave pitch tilt - best at 437Hz 2nd octave displacement - 440Hz low foot notes displacement - 442 Hz mid foot notes displacement - 444 Hz break note continuity - 451 Hz These are reflected in the averaged deviations: Note that although the flute is at its best at 440Hz, it is only mildly compromised at high pitch (452). Has Henry Potter deliberately produced a flute for all seasons? Note also the unusual response of the foot notes (both graphs). While earlier flutes showed pronounced flat foot syndrome, the Henry Potter's foot is marginally sharp at 440, sharp at 452 and best around 442Hz. And while most flutes show a less flat C, an intermediately flat D and very flat Eb and C#, the Potter's D is its flattest note. Conclusion and acknowledgements A fine late 2nd generation flute in the grand tradition of the London makers. Effective absence of flat foot problems and flexible tuning useful across the range of pitch in vogue would have made this a very desirable instrument. My thanks to flute owner, Melbourne flute player Andrew Le Blanc, for permitting this analysis and publication. My thanks too to flute researcher Adrian Duncan for biographical information on Henry Potter. could you tell me the length of the flute and what is it made from, african blackwood or ebony ? (Derek)

I bought a junk box at an auction that contained a "broken clarinet". This wooden flute is stamped "made in Germany" "Trade Mark" and something else I can't make out but may be 'trade mark' in German. It is also stamped with a lyre and a large "S" that is over two smaller letters, the first one may be a 'G', the second one is an 'H'. Below that is "1CP" with the 'C' higher up. It is made of a dark wood with five open finger holes and has silver keys. Both ends are capped with silver. It has four sections. The upper cap when removed is wood and cork, the next one is metal and the others are cork. The pads appear to be leather and may be underlayed with green felt. Can anyone tell me any history about this instrument and its worth? (JC)

Possibly Steinway (piano makers but they marketed flutes also I beleive). (Doug Lanchbery)

I have a wooden flute for sale on E-bay and I don't know anything about it. It is item #897763303...Each piece bears the initials H.P. It is in good condition and very old(I Think). I decided to sell it after it sat in my closet for 13 years. I thought it would have the same fingering as my other flute, but it didn't. Does anyone know anything about this flute? (anonymous)

I have a wooden flute for sale on E-bay and I don't know anything about it. It is item #897763303...Each piece bears the initials H.P. It is in good condition and very old(I Think). I decided to sell it after it sat in my closet for 13 years. I thought it would have the same fingering as my other flute, but it didn't. Does anyone know anything about this flute? (anonymous)

I have Al Purcell's old german flute with ivory embouchure.. 10 keys... love the thing. question is, does anyone have information on the old german makers so i can identify this flute's origins? (mazepiper)

I'm currently restoring an old flute and would like to try to identify the maker and approximate age, but there are none of the usual maker marks embossed on the flute. The flute is in a dark brown wood with silver rings and 8 block-mounted silver keys. It is in five sections and has hole placements and sizes much like a Rudall Rose. The head joint is lined, and there is a tuning slide. The lining and tuning slide are not of brass, but of some plated silver or nickle appearing material. The six pads are quite hardened and in need of replacement, so it's not a recent reproduction. The low C and C# holes are covered by pewter plugs. The metal bases on which these plugs rest are circular rather than square, and are each secured by two screws, one on either side of the hole. Two distinctive features: 1. Six black bands about 1.5 mm wide painted or burned around the flute, two on the head joint (one on either side of the embouchure hole) and four around the barrel/neck. I would guess these were intended as a distinctive trademark, in lieu of a maker's mark embossed in the wood. 2. Three orange-ish cork dot silencers, at the points where the rivets securing the springs to the key would touch the wood [for the G-sharp, short F-natural and B-flat keys]. Anybody recognize the maker (and hence approximate age) of this instrument? BTW, it plays quite nicely. Larry (Larry Mallette)

Hi, i have found here in my parent's old clouset a wood with silver flute. It has on every part the enscription C. Mahillon, Bruxelles. On some webpages they mention wooden flutes made by C. Mahillon, but they allways have a 5 pointed star on them. (as I saw above, one of his students has a 6 pointed star). My flute has instead of this star a heraldic weapen/ sign/ shield/ coat of arms (don't know, my principal language is dutch). It looks slighly battered, the silver has apperantly oxidated, and there's a little crack in one of the parts. (there are 3) I do know nothing about flutes, but i'd like to know what I have. Thanks for info! (Piere)

Playing

I have been trying to teach myself the flute for a year or two now, on & off. Sometimes I seem to get a clear sound but others I don't. I noticed that the embouchure hole , while oval in shape is slanted, i.e. tilted back from left to right. Is this normal or should it be straight? Would this affect the sound & the way I hold the flute? (Micealo)

There are many variables to consider when looking at tone production on the flute, especially when we're talking about making a pleasant sound every time you play the flute. Many things can affect good tone production. Your lips could be in a different state on any given day than on any other given day. Your flute could have a leaky joint. The angle at which you're holding the flute could be slightly different than the time before, etc. The best thing to do is to practice in front of a mirror on a flute you know it has been deemed possible to produce a good tone on. Note when you hear a pleasant sound & look at your posture, your lip position and the amount of breath you're using. Some flutes can take a lot of breath while others cannot. Do this every time you practice. Also make sure your tongue does not block the path of the air from the throat through the lips. In regard to your embouchure hole: often wooden flutes have offset embouchure holes. Experiment with the angle of the flute in relation to the mouth. Try raising the flute, then lower it. Pull it back (remain purpendicular to the lips) & push it out away from the body. Always note what you do and eventually you will begin to get better results. Remember:no flutist ever has a great tone every single time he/she plays. But there are things we can do to adjust immediately to such situations. (Brett Lipshutz)
Get a good teacher and work on playing long tones. There is no substitute for learning a correct and natural embochure and a good teacher will help correct poor technique before it becomes habit. It is dull and boring work but long tone exercises will pay off, and so will the $$ you spend on lessons. You really cannot self-diagnose this important element of playing very effectively. Randy Howard (anonymous)
I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)

Is there any way to play CD's at a slower speed without changing pitch so that I can learn new tunes? (webmaster)

From contribution to woodenflute email list by Ken Laberteaux (edited): Using a program called Winamp, you can slow down mp3 files without changing the pitch, or change the pitch without changing the tempo (handy for Eb albums). Now it looks like you can do this directly from CDs (you need not first convert them to mp3 files). All of this software is free. 1. Download Winamp (the minimum package will suffice) from http://www.winamp.com and install. 2. Download Pacemaker plugin from http://www.hut.fi/~oparviai/pacemaker/ and install. Turn it on by selecting it as your DSP/Effect plugin. The following instructions shows you how to turn it off, so turning it on should be straight forward: http://www.hut.fi/~oparviai/pacemaker/turn-off.html Give it a try with an mp3 file, if you have one. 3. Download CD Reader plugin from http://www.url.ru/~copah/ When you double click, it will install the file to the correct directory and pop up a Readme file. The important thing to get from this Readme file is to disable the default CD playing plugin by renaming in_cdda.dll to in_cdda.dll.off. You will generally find this in the directory C:\program files\winamp\plugins. (You can use the "find file" utility from your start button if you have trouble finding it.) If you don't rename this file, the CD Reader plugin will not work since it is being preempted by the default CD playing plugin (in_cdda.dll) (webmaster)
For Mac users, try Amazing Slow Downer via www.versiontracker.com or search for it. julesstock@hotmail.com (anonymous)
Sabine produce a device called a backtracker which I found both simple to use and inexpencive it records a sample of up to 30sec.and allows you to play-back in real,3/4.1/2,or 1/3 time thus giving you a section at a time to learn.It has a memory when disconected,earphone socket mono/stereo and is the size of a paper-back novel. Terry Nolan (anonymous)
The above mentioned Amazing Slow Downer is available also for PC users. A trial version can be obtained directly from the maker: www.ronimusic.com. I'm using it frequently. It not only plays CD's but music files like mp3 as well. Each tune can be slowed down and also the pitch can be adjusted. Great to learn tunes by playing 'together' with your favourite musicians. Marc (Marc de Wit)

I'm a struggling flute player living in Sydney Australia. While I haven't seen any Australian players or teachers listed would anybody know of a teacher in the locality that might be able to help? Is there any Ozzies out there? (Micealo)

Any ozzies are welcome to contact me through t.mcgee@dynamite.com.au or 02 6288 8006 - I'll try to identify a teacher (or whatever other flute help they might be looking for) in their area. (Terry McGee)
One good place to check is at a college's or universities's musical arts department. Their professors should be well versed in a wide variety of instruments and a good chance they would have a lead, if not the time & availability to give lessons if luck is with you. (anonymous)

When I was in Ireland last year I purchased a Tony Dixon plastic traditional irish flute. like many I could not get a sound out at first. after practice, i seem to be able to get the lower octave no problem but struggle on the upper. When I first pick it up, it sounds quite clear but soon after it gets squakey, there seems to be a moisture build up on the inside. after a while when it dries it becomes clearer. is this my imagination. I will be in Ireland May 17-June 8, Any flute lessons in the Athlone area (anonymous)

This is caused by the condensation build-up inside the bore, When this happens it will cause the tone to get a sort of fuzzy or unclear sound, To correct this cover all toneholes and cover the embouchure hole completly with your mouth and push a sharp fast gush of air through the flute, this will clear the droplets of condensation from inside the flute, Or better still take the flute apart for a moment and swabb out the inside, (anonymous)

I have a new polymer flute which generally sounds great and is from a reputable manufacturer. However, I am an new to flute playing, and I have noticed that when I play a D scale on this keyless flute, the intonation of the C# (all holes uncovered)is off. Is this a problem with my playing, the flute itself, or is a typical problem with keyless traditional flutes? (anonymous)

I have found even with my silver flute that I must consciously "lip down" the c#. You may find the c natural also needs to be manipulated, or perhaps "lab-ipulated" in order to keep it in tune. I believe it is a common thing. (woody)
I play a Seery Flute myself and I have to say my c sharp is so low it