Questions and Answers

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Accessories

  • I have to use a finger rest while playing due to two plates in my left hand, preventing me from bending the correct way. However, my BoPep does not fit on my wooden flute. Obviously, the bore is the same as my silver, but the nature of wood is that the outside would be larger. Does anyone have suggestions on possible manufacturers or anything to help me out? Without the rest, it is not only uncomfortable to play, getting painful the longer I practice, but I have trouble with finger agility. (anonymous)

Building

  • I want to build a tuning slide for a home made flute. Where can I find tightly telescoping tubing to do this? I am looking for something that will approximate the tight fit of a concert boehm head articulation with the body. (Bryan)
    • Tell me what dimensions you require and maybe I can help Phil Bleazey phil@bleazey.co.uk (Phil Bleazey)
    • Yes, I know. There is an American brass company that sells exactly what you want. Their specialty is precision brass shapes and their tubing selection includes telescoping sizes large enough for flute construction. Their name is...drum roll please...Special Shapes Co., Romeoville Illinois. Phone 630-759-1970. Randy Howard (anonymous)
    • Any hoby or model shop ought to have the tubing required. I have had very good results with the cheap tubing sold at these places. (anonymous)
    • MY NAME IS ALAN DOHERTY.I PLAY FLUTE WITH AN IRIAH BAND CALLED GRADA..I'M LOOKING FOR A BANSURI TEACHER..CAN YOU HELP ME... (alan doherty)
    • Hi! I am looking to buy a wooden flute for my 10 yr. old daughter. I don't play the flute myself and don't know what to look for in buying a decent, entry-level flute. We live in Washington state. Any suggestions? Bettina (anonymous)
    • The best entry level flute in my opinion, isn't wood at all, it is polymer(ABS) and made by Tony Dixon http://www.tonydixonmusic.co.uk/ The best thing about these is they are waterproof, not expensive like a wood instrument and they play very very well. I have two and use them often. These also travel well and can take knocks and bumps far better than a wooden flute. Bryant (Bryant)
  • I am trying to make a low whistle, and found some plans on the net that are OK. But I have a question: Would it be possible to make a wooden flute, too? My own flute is a romantic french one and the tube is conic. Is it possible to make a cylindric one? (Francis)
    • It is possible to build a cylindrical-bore wooden flute. I think the most common modern examples are bamboo or cane flutes. Mark Shepard wrote a book about making simple flutes, and you can find details on his website at http://www.markshep.com. (webmaster)
    • You can make a wooden flute quite easily. Th e difficulties come in "perfecting" one. My own experience with building flutes began with making ceramic Notched Flutes, cylindrical bore, six finger holes. I the went to making them from PVC pipe, so that I could experiment without wasting nice wood in the process. Later I began using Theobald Boehm's book "The Flute and Flute Playing." This is a good resource book for any one interested in Woodwind instruments. The real way to learn to make flutes of any material is to go ahead and make some! They are fairly easy to make, and each one will benefit from all the ones you've built before. Have some fun with it, Good Luck, Tony Denning (tony)
  • Does anybody have contacts for silver tuning slide stock in England, Germany or Ireland? (anonymous)
  • I'd like to locate a set of plans for a simple Irish flute. I have several well seasoned boxwood and rosewood turning stocks left over from my last Uilleann pipes making effort. The pipes turned out OK, the reeds... well, that's another story. I enjoy playing irish music and I would probably enjoy it so much more if I didn't have to spend most of my time adjusting temperamental reeds, so I'm willing to give the flute a whirl. Plans for a simple flute will do just fine, and if the plans show additional key placement, that will be great too. Thanks in advance, Fernando. (anonymous)
    • Go here..Edinburgh Uni collection of Musical Instruments. http://www.music.ed.ac.uk/euchmi/uwl.html#Woodwind Good Luck Pat Higgins (Pat Higgins)
    • I bought a set of plans from Australian maker Terry McGee. They are very thorough and worth the price for making either a keyed or keyless Irish flute. http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Plans.htm (anonymous)
  • M & E FLUTES. SOME PEOPLE HAVE COMMENTED THAT THE SLIDES ON THESE FLUTES ARE TOO LOOSE - AS A D.I.Y MAN I WOULD LIKE TO FORWARD A COMMENT THAT MAY OR MAY NOT HELP. HERE IN NEW ZEALAND PLUMBERS USE COPPER PIPING FOR WATER, THEY HAVE 2 WAYS OF JOINING THE MATERIAL, EITHER BY BRAZING IT (A BIG NO NO FOR A FLUTE)OR BY USING A CROX NUT TOOL AND MECHANICALY FASTENING THE PIPES TOGETHER. IN SHORT THIS TOOL EXPANDS THE INNER WALL OF THE COPPER TUBING CREATING A RAISED RING WHERE A CROX NUT ACTS AGAINST THE RING AND TIGHTENS UP AGAINST A BRASS NIPPLE. THESE CROX NUT TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE IN 5/8 THS AND 3/4 QUARTER INCHES COSTING BETWEEN 15 - 25 DOLLARS NZ. YOU INSERT THE TONGUE OF THE TOOL INSIDE THE PIPING AND SLOWLY TURN THE THREADED "T" HANDLE CLOCKWISE THIS FORCES 3 BALL BEARINGS TO ACT AND PRESS AGAINST THE INNER WALL, AS YOU ONLY WANT TO ENSURE THE SLIDE OF THE FLUTE WILL REMAIN FIRM NOT MUCH PRESSURE WILL BE REQUIRED AND A RAISED SURFACE WILL APPEAR. A CHEAP AND INEXPENSIVE WAY OF ENSURING THE SLIDE IS FIRM AND SQUARE TO THE WALL OF THE TUBING WHILE STILL LOOKING GOOD. ALL THE BEST KEITH RANDALL DUNEDIN NEW ZEALAND AMATEUR (OKAY) BEGINNER FLUTE PLAYER (mr.grumpy)
    • On my M&E the slide appeared loose until I put slide grease on it, which tightened it right up. On the modern silver flute, it is a "no-no" to put anything on the tenon slides, but on the Irish flute it is apparently expected that the slide will be greased. (James_P)
    • I ran into the same problem with my M&E flute. Michael Cronnolly directed me to use the compound he'd included with the instrument by putting a coat of it directly onto the metal slide. It's actually toilet gasket that's obtainable from Ace Hardware stores. It adds resistance to the slide at the same time it allows the joints to turn more easily. It fixed the excess motion of the slide.--Ken (Ken)
    • I've had the same problem with my M&E flute. On the advice of a friend I've been using a mixture of beeswax and petroleum jelly to tighten up the slide and the problem seems to have been remedied. -Wes (Wes)
    • Chris Wilkes provides a small vial of silicone grease with his flutes. A small dab applied to the tuning slide with a finger tip and spread around once or twice a year keeps the slide tight enough but quite functional. I obtained an additional supply in the plumbing department of my local hardware store. Low low cost. Non-abrasive enough and won't ever congeal or act as glue. [If you've ever arm wrestled with an antique flute with a frozen tuning slide, you know my long term worry about using a wax or organic grease for this purpose.] (Larry Mallette)
    • Don't use a crox nut tool on an M & E flute. Please don't. Just a little wax or grease. Using a crox tool would be much more foolish than using a chain saw to butter your bread. (anonymous)
    • Don't use a crox nut tool on an M & E flute. Please don't. Just a little wax or grease. Using a crox tool would be much more foolish than using a chain saw to butter your bread. (anonymous)
  • Halo Im a maker of wood flutes and ather woodwind instruments, I look for info abaut festivals, summer scool and any ather event in europe and usa next summer that I can show and sel my work in.I hope somwone can give me a list with adras ,date and phone .lots of thanks . (anonymous)
    • Uk summerschool. Folkworks in durham. the run adult and youth schools and have had had Fintan vallely, niall keegan and brian finnegan all teaching in recent years. more info at www.folkworks.co.uk ()
    • Try www.froots.demon.co.uk Phil Bleazey (Phil Bleazey)
    • Try Rudolshtadt Germany july (TihDim) (TihDim)
    • Hello maker of wooden flutes, I have a question for you, I have never played a flute before but would like to learn, and I want to make my own flute out of wood, but I can not find much information on making them on the net, could you give me some pointers on making one. Thank you. Mike (Mike)
  • I'm seeking for information. Tell me your opinion - if you can, if you have - about Ray Sloan's Celtic flutes. (Bennett) (anonymous)
    • According to his web site Ray has stopped making flutes and is concentrating solely on pipes. I am not an expert by any means but I started off on his CELTIC STUDENT flute which sounds fine to me, he was also very helpful with a repair job and took time to mail me with advice. (domino)
  • Hi, I am completing an MA in Social Anthropology, and am specialising in the construction of the traditional New Zealand Maori diagonal 'tube' flute the KOAUAU. This is a great instrument to play -straight bore-air directed across open end of tube- and gives a beautiful tone, though is nothing like the standard horizontal flute in range (0-5 holes only). This is a long shot but here goes: does anyone out there know anything about the koauau? or knows of someone who does? does anyone know anything about any other traditional diagonal wooden flutes? and/or how they were made? For my field work, three flutes using differing traditional methods will be made. so what do you say? (Rob Thorne)
    • Hi Rob, Try directing your question to Bernard Wells (bcwells@xtra.co.nz). A friend of his knows a thing or two about Koauau. Regards Ruairidh Morrison (ruairidh morrison)
    • kia ora rob. there are many types of maori flute intruments and all are very unique. the main being the Koauau, The Putorino and the Nguru. they are all traditional and all have stories of their own. the ptorino is the most amazing as it has 3 completely different voices. i think you would like them all they make beautiful music and have some amazing effects. there are many makers and players of maori musical instruments. check out the names Richard Nunns and Brian flintoff. there is a book Toanga Puoro Singing treasures by Brian Flintoff that i think would be invaluable to you in your study, it introduces and explains many of the different traditional instruments and teaches you how to play them and also gives instructions on how to make them. there is a cd that accompanies the book also. chek it out. any more qs just let me know. Rihari (RihariD)
  • I'm seeking information as soon as posible.I have 3 keys on my seery flute G#, C natural & F natural. now i want to add more keys on but what other keys are there to get on? (kitty)
    • You can add a long F key, which is definitely useful when playing tunes in d-minor. In fact , anytime one has to go from D to F natural this key is helpful. You can also add a B flat key. The other keys you can add, depending upon whether your flute has the holes on the foot joint, are the low C and C# keys. These can be useful, however, I think most Irish players will tell you that it's not worth the hassle. Most of us just jump the octave and let the fiddles, accordions and whatever else plays down to these notes do it for us. (Brett Lipshutz)
    • That's amazing, it's thew first time I hear about a keyed Seery flute. I have a keyless one myself. Did you buy yours keyed or you had the keys added on it? Leonard (leonard)
  • Hello there! I'm doing a project for Science Olympiad in which I need to build an instrument. Seeing that I play the flute in my band, I would really like to build a flute. For the past two years I've used a PVC flute, but that's just ugly, and I'm only stuck in one octave. So, seeing as that I have one full year, I've decided that I want to make a wooden replica of my silver flute. I have an old flute that's been busted up, so I know more or less how the spring system works on a flute. SO! The question is- Is it possible to make a wooden flute replica of a normal flute, and if so, would it be possible to make it within one year? And if an exact replica isn't possible, I'd like to find a design for a flute that'll play a two octave chromatic scale w/o requiring the use of 17 fingers. NOTE! I am quite skilled when it comes to building things! This probably isn't out of my reach, its more the trial and error that I want to eliminate. (anonymous)
    • Do you want to build a Boehm system flute (like your silver one) or one of the historic systems, eg 8-key "simple" system, 1-key Baroque, whatever? New made wooden Boehm flutes are commercially available, as are antique ones - have a look under "wooden flute" on e-bay! If you are interested in historic flutes, look at Terry McGee's site for starters. Robert Bigio might also be able to help with advice. From your posting, I think you need to do a lot of basic research on the history and development of the flute before you are even in a position to think about actual manufacture! Your base-line objective, "I'd like to find a design for a flute that'll play a two octave chromatic scale w/o requiring the use of 17 fingers", is certainly achievable with either 8-key or Baroque designs, depending on the type of music you wish to play and how much work you want to do on learning to play the thing to a satisfactory standard! There are many fine modern makers of replica "Irish" keyless (non-chromatic) and keyed flutes, as well as of Baroque flutes (1-keyed but chromatic with complex cross-fingering). Just do that research on the Net and avoid a lot of wasted effort "re-inventing the wheel"! Good luck! (Jem Hammond)
  • what is a picollo? (anonymous)
    • a google search turned up this address: http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/Choir/8675/piccolo.html (Lesl)
    • You're probably thinking of a piccalo. It is more or less, a small flute, usually metal (sometimes wood or plastic). It plays an octive higher than a C flute, and is more challenging to play because it has a smaller head joint and keys. (Caroline)
    • Actually, it's a piccolo. (Jessie Driscoll)
    • Go to http://www.tsmp.org/band/schultz/faq.html for an overview. The term may also be used as an adjective such as a piccolo trumpet or piccolo concertina. (Spencer)
  • Can anyone tell me how to make airtight pewter plugs ? I want to make a replica of a Rudall & Rose - Carte flute and the pewter plugs I've produced so far are all leaky. Paul (benjuktuas@hotmail.com ) (Paul)
  • I need help to identify an antique flute. Look as a 19th century flute, brown wood and silver metal.The mark is hard to read. At the top there is a crown. The name begin by T and look like TUNTELL. In the second row there is a name : ROSE ..charte (but not sure of charte) & Co. adress seem 20 Chaldig Cross London and the number 662 below. Please email to pbevil@videotron.ca (anonymous)
    • Rudall, Rose Carte & Co. 20 Charing Cross Road London (1857-1871) (Mat Stephens)
  • My name is Reginaldo from So Paulo - Brasil, and I play the Scottish and Galician bagpipes, Bodhrn and Low & Tin whistle, I would like to learn more about Irish Flute and I'm very glad to found this group. I would like to know if someone could send me a plan of Irish Flute, or tell me where I can find it ???? (anonymous)
    • Try also joining the Chiff and Fipple Forum - plenty of advise on lots of relevant flute and pipes and whistle issues there. Just search the name Chiff and Fipple in google or whatever you use... best wishes for it! (Sarah)
  • how do you make a wooden flute (anonymous)
  • I inherited a wooden flute identical to the one one the very top of your web page...likely brought to Canada by ancestors from England. It is missing the end piece and I would really like to complete the instrument. I am an accomplished player and of course the historical value to my family. designworksbycc@aol.com (anonymous)
  • My aunt and I have recently discovered that there is limited information available on the internet regarding our former family business GH Huller in Schoneck. I am the great grand daughter of Gottfried H Huller and the grand daughter of Hermann Huller. My aunt, mother and uncle who are his children are all living in Canada. None of us own any of the instruments because of the war and I have been looking for some time to find one in a price range that we can afford. While an instrument in working condition would be lovely, if the cost is too high we would rather have anything as an historical piece for our family. If you have an information or could give me direction, I would be most appreciative. Also I have a little bit of information about the business for those who are interested. Thank you. Alexandra (anonymous)
    • Greetings: I am interested in info on G H Huller and his musical instrument company. I currently have 16 wooden Huller oboes all in bad condition - student models - These are being made into table lamps as they have served their usefulness as a musical tool I would greatly appreciate any info I can get on G H Huller. dchcret@doorpi.net (anonymous)
    • Hi, I don't know how long ago this was posted, or if you are still interested, but I just listed a Huller flute on ebay. I found this message by doing a search to find info on G H Huller. If you go to ebay and click the search for item #2536269449. You can also do a search by my user name, youwantourstuff. Steve (anonymous)
    • I've been bidding on the ebay item. Huller family if you are interested in it please let me know I would defer to your bid. I would be interested in more information on your family's instrument making business. I'm a player/collector. Chambermusic1@yahoo.com (BLACKLEDGE)
    • Hi, I am interested in hearing about the past G.H.Huller business. My father bought (and played) a clarinet made by the G.H.Huller company while he was in WWII in Germany. It is dated 1943. It still plays, but was played often and is worn. My father died in 1986 and this was the only thing I wanted to keep of his. Would love to share infor with Huller family. Lpastorek@hotmail.com (Lana) (anonymous)
    • I have got a silver Huller flute which was bought around 1974, i am looking for a valuation on it, with a view to selling. It has a plastic mouth pieace which makes it quite unusual, does anyone have any ideas where I can go for help. liz.law@btinternet.com (anonymous)
    • hi, I have a bassoon. I have been looking for information about G. H. Huller. Would like to know more about the company. rockx2@email.com (anonymous)
    • Hello, I too have a bassoon (serial no. 48729) in pretty good condition. Unfortunately, I no longer have the time to play it and am looking to sell it. I got the instrument in the late 70's (from a David Lock in Uxbridge, Middlesex, England) and stopped at the age of about 16 in the late 80's. I had always hoped it would be something I could keep and pick up again one day but I have different priorities now and someone else could be benefitting from it. Some of the corks and pads need a little work, otherwise, it is as lovely-sounding as it ever was. I would be delighted to have chat about it or send you some pictures, if it would be of interest to you. Thanks. Gower Preston oic@onetel.com (anonymous)
    • Hello, I have a wonderful antique Huller flute. I have taken it to a musician who said that all it needs is minor restoration. This piccolo appears to be the same model that is stored at the Library of Congress. I plan on having it restored. If you have any interest in purchasing this wonderful instrument please email me at franteaks@ol.com. (anonymous)
    • I have a Huller Wooden Flute in its original case. It is in great condition but probably needs new pads and maybe some cork repair. I need to have it appraised, but does anyone have any idea what it would be valued at? Thanks! lady.luck@juno.com (anonymous)
    • iam looking for information on huller flutes also we have a 6 key flute that was passed down to us we would like to sell it as we do not play and i do not want such a lovely instrument ruined so any info would be great (anonymous)
    • August 27, 2009. My Father who was in WWII has this G H Huller flute that is pictured in the Miller flute collection in the Library of Congress. He played it during high school in the early 40's. He has the original case. Would like to sell for him to help with his living expenses. If anyone is interested please email for pictures. laurahibbard@hotmail.com. (laura)
    • I have my father's wooden G H Huller oboe made in 1938. He did military service in Germany in the 1950s and bought it then. It is no longer in playable condition. Is this of interest? helen.lawrence1@virgin.net (I'm in the UK) (anonymous)
    • I have a piccolo made by G H Huller of Schoneck. My father purchased it in Trieste in the 1930's ( I think). I had it overhauled in 1986 and it has not been touched since. I would like to sell it but have no idea what it is worth. Can anyone help me? I've tried to add a photo but the site is not letting me. Here is a description of it by someone:- "It looks to be made of grenadilla wood with either silver or silver plate headjoint and keys. I'm inclined to think it's solid silver of one purity or another, though I can't be sure. The lip plate looks to be ebonite, bakelite, or some other type of plastic. Given the piccolo's age, it's possible that it's either in the key of Db or built for a pitch other than A-440 (both of these are easy enough to check with a simple tuner), so it may or may not be useful to a player rather than a collector. While it probably plays well enough, it does not have much value as Huller piccolos are not particularly sought-after. It does have a very interesting crown on it, however. I would be grateful for any information. Thanks (Patti)
  • I inherited a wooden flute identical to the one one the very top of your web page...likely brought to Canada by ancestors from England. It is missing the end piece and I would really like to complete the instrument. I am an accomplished player and of course the historical value to my family. designworksbycc@aol.com (anonymous)
  • This is a naive question about woods. I like the traditional blackwood look with the silver or gold rings (ferrules) and keys. Some like the brownish or redish woods. But, why stay with the endangered or exotic woods at all? Why don't people make instruments out of more common hardwoods like locust, oak, maple, alder, etc.? And, if you were going for the exoctic looks, what about purpleheart, zebra, or bloodwood for awesome session playing? With a flute like that, you wouldn't even need to play a note! (Saoirse)
    • Some woods leak more than others. I have a maple fife that is a piece of junk because it's maple. The exotic woods such as grenadilla are very dense woods, which is useful as they don't leak, they are less suceptible to moisture from your breath, and the tone is purer. (Andrew)
    • I agree - I've seen very beautiful NA flutes made of Zebra and purpleheart. The physical strains are different but they take a LOT more humidity than an Irish flute as the "slow air chamber" acts as a very effective condenser (anonymous)
  • (Derek)
  • I HAVE RECENTLY ACQUIRED A HAWKES AND SON 6 KEY AFRICAN BLACKWOOD Bb FLUTE WITH A BAKELITE MIDDLE PIECE CAN ANYBODY TELL ME THE CURRENT VALUE OF THESE FLUTES THANKS JANE (anonymous)
    • jane i have info on hawkes i could scan to you, you can e mail me on dq009d0295@blueyonder.co.uk david (anonymous)
    • Contact me on downie8@blueyonder.co.uk for details of your instrument Derek (Derek)
    • I am interested in purchasing this Crown a-z 6 key my e mail is briancrossett@hotmail.com (Brian Crossett)
  • Can anybody give me more specifications about Pratten design fingerholes and/or rudal and rose fingerholes. Just more then that one is bigger then the other and louder and harder to play &c. I work with the Peter Hoekjes' spreadsheet at the moment, have the books of Bart Hopkin, and the one of Benade. But I am looking for a faster way to calculate the fingerhole dimensions as compared to each other. For Instance, how much need the tophole to be smaller then the 5th to get a good flattened 7th, when crosfingering it.. Somebody must have studied that!!! The trial and error method is realy nice to work with in the beginning, but i am planning to make woodenflutes, and to cast away 30 banks, before I have a decent flute (as now happens with my pvc ones) is a little to expensive and work consuming for me. (Job)
    • As an attempt to answer my own question. I did some research. I am primarily posting my results until now. First of all as a attempt to keep this point alive, secondly as an attempt to fire up this discussion . What is "research" until now.? Actually, I took some pics from the net, measured them with Turbo Cad, calculate relative dimension. I am aware this is a very insecure method. But not really having access to good wooden flutes here (yet), it is just a first attempt to get to some "rules of thump". Yet I find it save to draw some conclusion yet. my averages at the moment are 1st: 85%, 2nd: 95%, 3th: 79%, 4th: 88%, 5th: 100%, 6th: 61%, Where is the top hole (near the embouchure). I took pics from as well Pratten design as Rudall and roses. Odd enough the general dimension of the whole in comparisment to each other does not differ much. I did not really have a good comparisment about there placement as compared to the length of the pipe. There is an average difference of 6%. The fifth hole is always the biggest, followed by the second hole, without one exception, a b-flat flute by Terry McGee. where it is just the opposite. 6 hole is always the (very) smallest. these figures are by no way absolute, though I already trust they will do well as rule of thumb. Anybody of my learned and experienced flute makers that like to jump in, please correct me if I am wring, tell me what figures are nonsence.. (Job)
  • I know this is for totally wooden flutes but I could not find a forum anywhere else that could help me with this question? Does any one have woodworking plans for a wooden head joint for a regular sliver flute? Any help would be so much appreciated. Thanks Kiara (Kiara)
    • If I were you I would contact Sam Murray. About ten years ago I remember him having such a piece in his workshop. The only problem is that I`m unsure whether it was made by him or on the premises because it needed repaired, but I`m pretty positive he would`nt mind answering any query you might have about it. Good luck. (anonymous)
    • I have made several wooden heads for an armstrong flute. If you give me an email address I can email you a drawing of the ones I have made (anonymous)
  • I have an old wooden flute from my grandfather that has the following name engraved on it. H:EMMEL:V (or could be a Y FLORSTADT MY grandfather emigrated in the late 1800's from Germany. I think Florstadt is a German town. The flute is rather crude with holes and a few brass keys. Can anyone give me any info about this flute? It needs some repair as it has a crack in the head piece. Any information would be appreciated. classiceld@aol.com (anonymous)
  • How does one go about getting involved in the world of musical instrument making"? Is there any other network of instrument makers? I live in Brooklyn, NYC, I am a flute player myself, and welcome any insights into the fascinating world of instrument makers. Contacts are welcome, of course. Thanks (anonymous)
    • join the flutemakers mailing list at yahoo groups. I have heard that the MIMF is quite good (musical instrument makers forum). Generally the first step is to decide on what instrument you are interested in and then searchg around a forum. They do exist (especially if you want to discuss how to lacquer an electic guitar etc. etc.) Clive (anonymous)
    • I canot find this Yahoo forum! Can you be more specific on how to get to them? (Karlmann)
  • can anyone give info about african blackwood. i have been told that african blackwood from nigeria, isnt proper blackwood but an eboney wood. i have also been informed that the only place you get proper african blackwood is tazania. can anyone give me information on theses comments, (jawvea)
  • can anyone inform what differance it make if the blow hole is large or small..? (jawvea)
    • The shape of the embouchure or blow hole does make a difference, and has changed and developed throughout the history of the flute. Much has been written about it. Have a look at Terry McGee's website for an overview of the variations he offers on his new flutes. (Jem Hammond)
  • Does anybody know where I can buy ebonite piping to make flutes from? We currently make bamboo flutes in the Native American style. We are fine tuning our bamboo saxophones ! They sound so good. I'm not a fan of regular pvc but I've read that ebonite is excellent for flute making. Thanks, Sinder (anonymous)
  • (anonymous)
  • I am building a six key wood flute and I need to obtain the keys. I do not have the equipment to make them. Are there any sources for these keys. Charles. (anonymous)
    • . Yes. Woods vary in density and hardness just like metals. However, density is the primary focus of observable differences as it seems to correlate best with changes in timbre. I wish there was an objective flute language with a universal meaning so that I could communicate the distinguishing characteristics of each specific wood. To my knowledge, no such language exists. In the world of headjoints, the same words often mean different things to different people. The word bright to one flutist means the projection of a beautiful radiance, while to another flutist the same word means strident and steely. Despite this dilemma, I endeavor to give as general a view as possible so that you are motivated enough to try these comparisons for yourself. Generally the less dense woods like boxwood have a mellower or less complex timbre than African blackwood (technically referred to as grenadilla wood) which combines sonic complexities like bright and dark throughout the octaves. Sometimes the less complex timbre is easier on the ears and sometimes the more complex timbre is more interesting to listen to. From a purely functional standpoint, the denser woods seem to have a quicker response and greater sonic and structural stability. Within the African blackwood family the wood varies in density several percent, as specimens from different trees of the same family vary and can be sorted by weight assuming moisture levels are consistent throughout. Color and grain structure also plays a role in sorting, however this is less reliable than actual weighing of like dimensional samples from different trees. By sorting African blackwood by weight, specimens can be divided into medium and high density so that a particular timbre can be anticipated. The scale illustrates two sample headjoints made to identical dimensions of African blackwood from different trees. Our company makes available our African blackwood headjoints in the densities described above so that a variety can be obtained from the same wood family. Naturally blow hole measurements and other dimensional characteristics common to all headjoints play an equally significant role in determining which headjoint you will ultimately prefer. (Antoniu)
  • (anonymous)
  • Does anyone know how to make a good flute out of PVC pipe? Or do you have any tips? (Basher5-2)
    • e-mail me at jason@theburnfieldcastle.com and I'll send you the information that I have used to design and build flutes of many sizes and scales from pvc and bamboo. (jasonlburnfield)
  • (anonymous)
  • How would i build a a flut out of just on peice of wood? Or is that not possible? Rebecca (anonymous)
  • I have a flute advertised on this site. Almost 100% of the replys are Scams. If you get a reply to your ad that says they will arrange for the shipping don't reply. If you get a reply that shows no interest in the condition of the flute but asks for only the current price and pictures, beware. If they ask for your address and other information ask them for theirs first. All scam ads seem to have "broken english" or forign sounding sentences. Just delete them. Good luck. (anonymous)
  • Can you please advise of any Native American flute makers in Florida - Melbourne area preferred? Regards (anonymous)
  • how long does it take to make a clarinet? (anonymous)
  • (anonymous)
  • i just purchased a flute for my daughter from a music club which comes in 3 sections, she has been learning the whistle but tonight we tried to set up the flute but cant make a single note, just air blowing out can anyone help before we go to our class next week? (anonymous)
  • I would like to make wooden flutes like the ones shown on this website's top & bottom logo. Who makes these? How do I get started learning ho to make them? I realize that I will start with a keyless Flute, but I want to begin building infrastructure for complete, keyed flutes that will be better than the silver ones. Also, is there information on how to tune more complicated units such as the Logo Flutes? I have a chromatic tuner, and am now fully equipped to make keyless, 6-hole, wooden flutes. Also, based on this site, I have a copy of "Tone and Intonation on the Recorder" by Kottick on its way to me. Thanks for everyone's help. (Karlmann)
  • I am looking for a 6-key "simple system" piccolo fingering chart. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, pkingslea (anonymous)
    • I've never seen one specifically for piccolo. The standard (and many variant)8-key flute systems should serve as a good starting point - there won't be much difference save for no C foot. There are also French 5 or 6key fingering systems available. See Rick Wilson's site www.oldflutes.com/ and/or www.wfg.woodwind.org/. Good luck! (Jem Hammond)
  • I do not play flute but I would like to build a 6 key Irish flute out of copper pipe. Are there free specifications for the placement and diameter of the holes? (anonymous)
  • Hello everyone, my name is Allen and I'm building a renaissance transverse flute. I'm trying to perform undercutting on the toneholes, but first, I want to know what exactly are the SOUTH/NORTH,and EAST/WEST sides of the toneholes? Is this in respect to the flute standing up on the bottom and the top facing upward (to the sky)? Or is this in respect of the flute in the sideways position (like I'm actually playing the flute, from left to right)? Your advise and info is greatly appreciated? many thanks. (anonymous)
  • Hi everyone, I'm not sure if my message was sent successfully last time, but I'll try again to make sure I send the message correctly, anyway... Does anyone one know what the south/north, east/west sides of the tone holes of the flute are? I'm building a rensiassance transverse flute, and I am about to perfrom some undercutting on certain tone holes...which sides are north/south, east/west? I want to know for sure of what's what. Are the sides of the toneholes in respect of the flute facing skyward (flute bottom end facing upward)? Or is this in respect to the flute positioned sideways direction (from left to right)? Thanks. --Allen (email: nomadicquest1@yahoo.com) (anonymous)
  • Hi. I just started making a wooden F flute according to Mark Shep's flute making guide. However, I'm a little confused about the placement of the wholes. Apparently, the stopper is supposed to be placed about one third the length of the diameter away from the mouth whole, but I measured this distance in my other flutes and it is much larger, so I'm not sure if this is correct. Also, I don't know how far this should be from the top end of the flute. Also, about the percentages used to measure the placement of the finger holes: you multiply the length of the flute from the mouthhole, AFTER the stoper is placed and the headjoint is finished, by the percentages given for each of the finger holes to find the distance from the center of the mouthhole to the center of those fingerholes...right? (anonymous)
  • I have a blackwood 6key flute one of the keys is broken and the part that gets pressed is missing, the flute is old but has no splits, needs a good clean up , new pads etc, can anyone tell me where I can purchase the key and pads, (fleadhcheoil)
  • I want to sell an old wooden flute I have, but have no idea what kind it is, and was hoping to get some help to identify it. It is dark brown wood, and has a lyre insignia on the side, with the letters SGH underneath the insignia, and with the number C870 underneath the insignia. It has 13 keys, 6 holes, about 29" long. It looks very similar to the following 2 ebay listings: 130426025402; 130426027563. I would appreciate any information or guidance. Thank you! (anonymous)
    • This is a G.H.Huller "c" flute in 435hz - slightly lower than modern A=440 pitch. (anonymous)

Flute cases

  • I don't have a question, and find posting to this site a little odd, but anyway. I just received my custom made flute case from Dave Migoya and it is a beautiful precision cut piece of work. I had Dave cut the forms for Casey Burns wooden flute (3 pieces) and an O'Riordan concert set D/C. This case seems to be able to stand some abuse while protecting your instrument. It was delivered in the time frame Dave specified (ten days upon receit of funds). I played with Dave when he worked here in Detroit and he is very conscienous of his work and professionalism. The case is an excellent product. Get Dave's address, email etc from the members list. (Mark)
  • Howdy, I recently purchased a German made wooden flute with open tone holes and many silver keys. It was sold without a case and now I would like to find one. It has four pieces and measures about 28" assembled. Anyone have or know of a vintage flute case for sale that might work? You may reply here if you choose: sevenish1@yahoo.com Thanks Randy Howard (anonymous)
    • you could go 2 Hammy Hamiltons website..I ordered one of his, rigid black aluminium framed cases.Were I live is considered part of the U.K when it comes to postage. Hamilton Flutes is in Ireland, Co Cork to be precise.I recieved the case within 4working days of having contacted him by email and posted the cheque.. (anonymous)
  • Does Anyone have a wooden case for a late 1800's 13 key wooden Flute for sale? The length of each joint are as follows Head 7 5/8" Barrel/receiver 3 1/2" or 10" if combined - Upr Sec 8 5/8" - Lwr sec 12" (anonymous)
  • Hello, I've just joined this group and hope you may be able to help me. I have my Grandfather's Wooden Rudall Carte flute and need a new case for it. The case has deteriorated so badly at the ends that I think a modern case would keep it in better condition, keep moisture out etc. Modern cases seem too small though for the larger diameter of wooden flutes. Can anyone advise where I may source a suitable case please? (anonymous)

Flute Dealers

  • Does anyone know any good woodenflute dealers in Quebec (CANADA)for new or used woodenflutes? Any suggestion of a good flute in D with 6keys at around 1000 Can$? (VeroSt-Louis)
    • buy one of sam murray in belfast Ireland for around 700 pounds but there is a long waiting list (anonymous)
    • As the above answer would have you believe, most flute makers in the woodenflute directory will ship all over the world. A lot of the wooden flutes sold in normal music shops are mass-produced in Pakistan or other places, and won't necessarily give you the range and depth of a hand crafted flute. (Spirawk)
    • I'm not in Canada, but will sell to you there subject to the usual sensible transaction safeguards! Please feel fee to contact me on jemhammond@yahoo.co.uk to see if I have (or can get) anything suitable for you. I'm dealing in a small way in antique flutes at the low-to-mid range in the market, restoring reasonably decent instruments and selling them in playing condition. Less risky than eBay, especially if you don't know how to tell what you are bidding on! Have a look at these links re: flutes I have sold/am selling. http://jemtheflute.faces.com/Photos/3254277/Flute+#002/ http://jemtheflute.faces.com/Photos/3254377/Flute%20%23003/ http://jemtheflute.faces.com/TuneFeeds/ (Jem Hammond)
  • Can anyone tell me how to get more information about an Irish Flute maker named DeKeyzer? (anonymous)
    • Look in www.saintchartier.com Phil Bleazey (Phil Bleazey)
    • I have just bought a De Keyzer flute. It is a pretty good flute, with an accurate sound. (vudelf)
    • I too have a De Keyzer flute but know nothing about the maker! (chris.flute) (chris.flute)
    • I have just bought a flute from Arie de Keyser who has a workshop in the grounds of Malahide Castle, north of Dublin. He is apparently working on a website which will be available soon. Steve Griffiths (Steve)
    • I know an Irish flute maker named Arie De Keyzer. His adress is : Vurtgen 17, 9940 Evergem, Belgium. Telephone number : 0032 / 9 253 27 38. (anonymous)
    • I have a flute made by a DeKeyser who lives just north of Dublin (Malehide). (anonymous)
    • Try doing an internet search of the name and see what you come up with (Sarah)
    • you can usually find Arie De Keyzer in Hughes Pub by thr Four Courts in Dublin listening to tunes any Saturday or Suday night. (anonymous)
    • just bought 'A De Keyser' D keyless flute from Marcus Music Belfast..fantastic, loud, accurate very focused sound. Handsome instrument too, he's either used Rosewood or crocus with brass tuning slide and thingamy bits. It's completely superior to older De Keyser flutes I heard a couple of years ago.. Previously played a 'Des Seery' composite model, great,responsive flute and many hours spent playing.Newly aquired Keyser flute has both an equally powerful(if not slightly sweeter) sound and is easier to fill..RESULT!! (anonymous)
  • where can i get a cheap, decent bohem system wooden flute? (anonymous)
    • . Firstly, wood piccolos and more specifically, wood piccolo headjoints have generally been considered superior in sound to their metal counterparts, and therefore have never fallen from favor. Flutes are another story as metals have generally been acknowledged as being sonically and structurally superior for most musical requirements. But wood flutes, whether pre-Boehm or modern have a seductive sound all their own which metal cannot duplicate. It is this unique wood sound technically called timbre that has of recent lured flutists back to a renewed interest in wood. And since wood headjoints give a metal flute much of the timbre of an all wood instrument, wood heads are of particular interest. (Antoniu)
  • I HAVE RECENTLY ACQUIRED A HAWKES AND SON 6 KEY AFRICAN BLACKWOOD Bb FLUTE WITH A BAKELITE MIDDLE PIECE WITH A QUEENS CROWN AND LETTERS A Z UNDERNEATH IT CAN ANYBODY TELL ME THE VALUE OF THIS FLUTE AS I THINK IT IS A GOOD AGE THANKS JANE (anonymous)
    • jane i have info on hawkes i could scan to you, you can contact me on dq009d0295@blueyonder.co.uk (david) (anonymous)
    • Jane I would like to purchase your 6 key crown a-z my e mail is briancrossett@hotmail.com (Brian Crossett)
    • Contact me by email for details of your flute on downie8@blueyonder.co.uk Derek (Derek)
  • Does anyone have information about any contemporary makers of conical wood Boehm system flutes with ring keys? I own several lovely playing copies but they are pitched at A=435, and would like to acquire or have one built to A=442. Thank you. (anonymous)
  • Looking for to purchase flutes Wanted instruments are; Hawkes and Sons Crown A/Z B flat 6 key flutes, made in either ebony or african blackwood and E flat piccolos again 6 keys in ebony or african blackwood,with the makers name, denman street, piccadilly circus, London with a picture of a crown and the letters A/Z, any information gratefully received. Thank you Derek (Derek)
    • TRY OLD BOYS BRIGADE FLUTE BANDS IN LONDON THESE FLUTE ARE QUITE COMMON IN LONDON (anonymous)
  • I am considering to order an Eugene Lambe five keyed flute. Unfortunately the maker ceased his webpage - I hope so much he didn't stop making flutes.(Does somebody know his e-mail address?) Could anybody tell me how much does cost a five keyed flute of his? Could somebody tell me how long is the waiting period? How much I should pay in advance to start the waiting time? Does anybody know that in which style he makes his flutes (Rudall and Rose, Pratten or something else)? (Bennet) (anonymous)
    • I'm curious if you found your answer. I own a Eugene Lambe flute that I'm trying to find a fair value for as I'd like to sell it. I ordered it directly from him around 1978 and was a kid then. Never did learn to play as I dreamed. Thanks. Andrea Mitchell andrea@donobi.net USA (anonymous)
    • Andrea... I may be interested in this Lambe flute. Is it keyless? Please contact me at acwfifer@aol.com if you're still interested in selling. I attempted to contact you, but the email did not go through at your address. Thank you. Wendy (anonymous)
    • I met Eugene in July 2008 in Kinvara, Co Galway, Ireland & went to his workshop with him. At that time he told me that he was thinking of giving up making musical instruments in favour of sailing to foreign parts on the ocean-going boat he'd made. He may be contactable by writing to him c/o Kinvara, Co Galway, Eire. He moors up in the harbour there & pops into the harbour bar, but he's evidently often away on his travels (or he was during 2008). He's a lovely fella who gave me great advice about my pipes. Steve (anonymous)
  • WANTED HAWKES AND SON MAKERS LONDON CROWN A Z, BB, E FLAT F, B FLAT, E FLAT AND F PICCOLOS AND EXCELSIOR SONOROUS, SUPERIOR AND FIRST CLASS FLUTES, dq009d0295@blueyonder.co.uk (DAVID) (anonymous)
  • I have a Hawkes and Son Excelsior Sonorous Class flute in ebonite and a Hawkes and Son Excelsior Sonorous Class piccolo with open G# also in ebonite. I am trying to find some information about these instruments and what they might be worth. They are both in excellent condition. Can anyone help? Thanks! sphynxpad-2004@yahoo.co.uk (Jim)
  • Does anyone have the phone number for Paul Wright, a flute dealer from Maghull, Merseyside. Matter of some urgency. Please contact Tom on 07752606386. Thanks a lot! (tomleedale)
  • I want to find out the kinds of wood used for irish flutes in New Zealand, Ireland and Europe---Other than the usual, things that are a little less known! Could someone help me? (anonymous)

Flute Model History

  • W.Wheatstone flutes. I have one (8key Cocus? with fairly small holes). Cant find any info. regarding William Wheatstones flutes, or the man himself. Anyone out there know anything???????????? Cheers! (Mat Stephens)
  • I have a wooden flute manufactured by William Hall & Son of New York (the manufacturer's information is engraved on the first of four sections of the flute). I would like to learn about the flute's history and its value if any. The condition of the flute is questionable. (anonymous)
    • Made between 1848 and 1875 according to Hamilton's book. Value will depend on many variables, especially condition! (Mat Stephens)
    • There is quite a bit of good information on William Hall at Terry McGee's excellent website: http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Hall.htm. (greylarsen)
  • I have an old wooden flute with the name "Douglas Flute Company" on it and an address of 7 South Street London. The wood seems to be ebony with a couple of cracks in it however a professor of mine seems to think it may have value because of it's interesting fingering mechanics (i.e. not standard or boehem). I have found nothing out about it through extensive internet research. Any info. would be appreciated. (anonymous)
    • I have seen two or three 8-key simple system flutes stamped "Douglas". They were all pretty bog-standard German made later C19th flutes- the usual German metal domes on the head and foot etc. Not bad players, but only ever amateur grade instruments. Many music shops in Britain and the USA imported unmarked German made flutes and stamped them with their own shop stamp. Unfortunately many modern Boehm flautists know very little about the history and development of the instrument, but the wonder of the Internet is that one can get at information so much more easily! If my surmises are right (can't be sure unless see instrument), the key/fingering system won't be particularly "interesting" or unusual, just standard "simple system" or one of the many late C19th hybrids. (Jem Hammond)
  • I am looking for an instruction manual for a Hohner Konzert wooden flute acquired in the early 70's in Germany. It has seven keys/holes with the bottom two having both a regular and smaller hole. It looks somewhat like a pennywhistle. It is in mint condition, having been boxed and never played. I would like to learn how to play it. Would appreciate any help you care to offer. Thank you (anonymous)
    • What you have sounds like it could possibly be a recorder. You can get fingering charts for these at local music shops or online. They are not terribly difficult to play and sound lovely. Good luck! (anonymous)
  • Can anyone explain the difference between a Rudall & Rose and a Pratten style flute? On discussion boards, people talk about them as if one is Venus and the other is Mars, but I can't tell if the difference is keys, fingerings, pitch, construction, or what have you. Are there other styles? Boehm, I guess (which I'm quite familiar with). Is keyless considered a fourth style compared to the three I just mentioned? (Spirawk)
    • A Pratten style flute is a big bore flute, it takes a lot of wind to fill them properly and they are loud (there is some stamina involved playing these flutes). The Rudall & Rose is not as big a bore and not as loud but by no means a quiet flute. Thats about as simple as I can get it. (VA)
  • I have two 8 key wooden flutes whose age I would like to determine. Can anyone please help? 1) EXCELSIOR SONOROUS CLASS HAWKES & SON MAKERS DENMAN STREET PICADILLY CIRCUS LONDON 6073 2) BOOSEY & CO MAKERS 205 REGENT STREET LONDON 14120 R.S. PRATTEN'S PERFECTED The Hawkes is in D and the Boosey in Eb Thanks, Chris (Chris Corbett)
    • Chris; I have been told that the modern makers, Boosey and Hawkes, have kept all the old records for Boosey flutes, and maybe they would also have the records for Hawkes. A friend of mine was able to date his Boosey 8-key by this method and he got a copy of the workshop log-book entries for his flute. .....Mike Meyerstein (Mike Meyerstein)
    • The records of Boosey & Hawkes and their predecessor companies are now in the possession of the Horniman Museum (qv - do a net search and find their site, which has all necessary links) in London. I have recently (late July 04) made a similar query myself and had a very helpful reply from Dr. Strauchen, Asst. Keeper of musical instruments, according to whom the archival material is currently undergoing conservation and microfilming, but should be returned to the museum and become available for detailed research by next winter. Good luck! (Jem Hammond)
  • I have purchased a wooden flute at an estate sale that I know nothing about. It says "Melodia" on a ribbon/bow type insignia, it has "C" and "L.F." carved below that, and also "Made In Germany". It looks similar to a dark rosewood. The head seems to be make out of a hard dark plastic, the rest is wood. There are twelve (12) nickel (?) keys. Any information about the maker or value? It does not have any cracks that I can find. It does have some green film on the keys and springs. What should I use to clean it with. Must it be rehydrated before playing it? Thanks. (Murdock)
    • The C simply means that it is a flute in 6-finger D (C with the C# and C levers depressed). L.F. is more likely to be L.P. (Low Pitch) which probably means that it is pitched about 440 (as opposed to the high pitch around 450 or higher) Probably best to remove the keys before cleaning with any good metal cleaner. And break the flute in by playing for fifteen minutes then swabing the flute. Do that for a week and then increase by five minutes increments. I have a flute stamped Melodia, but mine has a metal headjoint with a bakelite embouchure plate. Keys are also tarnished green and I have not got around to restoring it yet - new pads are also likely needed. I paid about $100 for it. These flutes are likely to have been made in the early 20th century - up to 1920. (anonymous)
  • I have an old wooden flute with 12 keys and six open finger holes, breaks down into 3 parts 1st part is mouth peice 2nd is 1st 3 holes and six keys 3rd part is last 3 holes and six keys with I think is a low b key(part of the six keys) can anyone give me any info on it Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (ben_rouse@hotmail.com) I can email a photo if there is anyone kind enought to help. Thanks (Ben Rouse)
  • I just had a George Cloos fife fall into my lap, and I was wondering if I could get some help dating it and maybe figuring it's value. The only markings are "Geo. Cloos" in an arch over "Crosby" and "" below that. The silver(?) ends were apparently loose and someone used scraps of newspaper to tighten them. On the paper was part of an article describing the digirible Shanandoah going down in a severe storm whichI've discovered was in 1925 so I figure it has to be at least that old. (anonymous)
  • I have recently aquired an 11 key foute by the maker Aefisoher Bremen. Does anyone know anything about this maker? Thanks: Jack Devereux (anonymous)
  • I have an old black wooden flute 650mm long with 8 possibly silver keys. It is a 4 piece instrument. The markings on it appear to be C H.P * DALBERT & CO. PARIS * Could anybody with any info about this treasure please email me. Thanks from Australia erincat@bigpond.com (anonymous)
  • I have acquired a wooden flute with metal keys and a metal bore. It was made by Montague Bros & Co., Makers, 65 Goldsmiths Row, London & Branches and the model is "Philharmonic Class" This is all that I know, It's in a very old wooden box with metal hinges and plays beautifully. I am trying to find out as much about it as possible. Can anyone give me some information on the maker and the flute? All info'greatfully received!! (anonymous)
  • I have acquired a wooden flute with metal keys and a metal bore. It was made by Montague Bros & Co., Makers, 65 Goldsmiths Row, London & Branches and the model is "Philharmonic Class" This is all that I know, It's in a very old wooden box with metal hinges and plays beautifully. I am trying to find out as much about it as possible. Can anyone give me some information on the maker and the flute? All info'greatfully received!! (anonymous)
  • I have a woooden flute. The markings on the foot joint read "Metzler & Co, 37 Great Marlborough St, London". It has 8 silver keys and a conical bore. I believe it is made of rosewood. I'm looking for any information regarding its manufacture and value. Thanks! (anonymous)
  • I recently came across a wooden flute with a headjoint made of ivory (?). The name is worn and my best guess is: l B Maleck & Co Chicago, IL There is no serial #. It looks to be Grenadilla and has silver mechanism (six hole). Has a beautiful sound and plays in tune. It looks like the flute on this webpage, below ony it has a ivory head joint. Does anyone have any information about this flute? (anonymous)
  • I recently acquired an old wooden eight-key Irish flute. But there are no markings that I can see to tell me who made the flute and where it came from. It needs a few repairs and general restoration, and I'm trying to determine if it's worth the cost of such work. If it were a reputable maker, wouldn't the company's name be engraved somewhere on the flute? (anonymous)
  • I recently acquired an old wooden eight-key Irish flute. But there are no markings that I can see to tell me who made the flute and where it came from. It needs a few repairs and general restoration, and I'm trying to determine if it's worth the cost of such work. If it were a reputable maker, wouldn't the company's name be engraved somewhere on the flute? (anonymous)
    • E-mail me a picture to jemhammond@yahoo.co.uk and I'll tell you what I can or point you in the right direction. (Jem Hammond)
  • I have found a keyless flute, and am told it is a Camac, made in France. Does anybody have any information on this brand of flute? Thanks. (anonymous)
    • Sorry to say, but it is not a flute. Although Camac sells good harps, my recommendation is to avoid their flutes. (anonymous)
  • I have two wooden flutes originally owned by my great grandfather. He came to Calif. during the gold rush in about 1851. I have had them restored at substantial expense and love them. One I'm pretty sure is a Boehm flute and I would like to know more about them. I can send photos if any one is willing to help me. Thank you .. Tom Harmon (Tom)
  • I'd really like to know a little history of my Grandfather's wooden Rudall Carte Flute. I wish I'd asked him before he passed away! My Grandfather was born in 1910 and emigrated from England to New Zealand in 1915. I suspect he bought the flute as a young adult, possibly from an auction because he loved to attend auctions. Is there any way I can find out how old it is please or where it may have been originally bought, or anything else of interest about it. I'm struggling to be certain of the first number in the serial number, it's either 8854 or 3854. think I need a magnifying glass. (anonymous)

flute teachers

  • I live near rye east sussex, england.I am looking for a teacher for trad irish flute. thanks terry (anonymous)
  • I play the Native American flute, whose fingering is similar to the Irish flute. I'm interested in finding a teacher in the San Francisco area. Any suggestions for purchasing a basic keyless flute? I've seen a number of them advertised on Ebay. The Pakistani ones appear suspecious. I also make NAF and will probably try to build one using the same techniques. Has anyone tried this using a split bore (AKA Native American type)? Thanks (StanG)
  • I play the Native American flute, whose fingering is similar to the Irish flute. I'm interested in finding a teacher in the San Francisco area. Any suggestions for purchasing a basic keyless flute? I've seen a number of them advertised on Ebay. The Pakistani ones appear suspecious. I also make NAF and will probably try to build one using the same techniques. Has anyone tried this using a split bore (AKA Native American type)? Thanks (StanG)

History and information

  • I have a V Kohlert sons maker graslitz bohemia flute. LP C the serial number is 229917. Do you know the year this specific instrument was made and any other information? Please e-mail me at Imilani1@yahoo.com Thank you (anonymous)
  • I have a V Kohlert sons maker graslitz bohemia flute. LP C the serial number is 229917. Do you know the year this specific instrument was made and any other information? Please e-mail me at Imilani1@yahoo.com Thank you (anonymous)
  • I am seeking information on Gottfried H. Huller (Schoneck)and the instruments produced by his company in Germany. Specifically a 1943 clarinet. Lpastorek@hotmail.com (anonymous)
  • My aunt and I have recently discovered that there is limited information available on the internet regarding our former family business GH Huller in Schoneck. I am the great grand daughter of Gottfried H Huller and the grand daughter of Hermann Huller. My aunt, mother and uncle who are his children are all living in Canada. None of us own any of the instruments because of the war and I have been looking for some time to find one in a price range that we can afford. While an instrument in working condition would be lovely, if the cost is too high we would rather have anything as an historical piece for our family. If you have any information or could give me direction, I would be most appreciative. Also I have a little bit of information about the business for those who are interested. Thank you. Alexandra (anonymous)
    • Hi, I don't know how long ago this was posted, or if you are still interested, but I just listed a Huller flute on ebay. I found this message by doing a search to find info on G H Huller. If you go to ebay and click the search for item #2536269449. You can also do a search by my user name, youwantourstuff. Steve (anonymous)
  • Hunting information on John Grey & Sons London Instrument makers . Possibly flutes and bagpipes around 1900-1920.Any info appreciated . Thanks (Mac)
  • I am looking for background information on a flute that has been in the family for at least 50 years, uncared for and unplayed. It is a dark wood (red-brown) 3 piece 4 brass-keyed instrument with manufacturer's mark on each piece -Manzane, London. It would have had 5 bands of ivory/bone, but only 2 remain. Does anyone know its likely age and the type of wood Mr Manzane made it from. (anonymous)
    • Are you sure of the maker's name spelling? MONZANI was a London flute maker in the early C19th - I'm sure there are people on here far more expert than me on such subjects. The wood is most likely "cocuswood". Keys on flutes of any design that are not made of real silver are usually made of a cupro-nickel alloy known as "German Silver"; they are not brass. Apparently mis-spelt maker's name stamps are often a sign of a cheap/lower quality maker trying to pass their work off as by the owner of the genuine marque, or at least associating themselves to it, without actually making themselves liable to prosecution. Good luck with your info search. (Jem Hammond)
  • I have a wooden flute and am trying to find any information I can on it, it has on it Starck Barnes&Sons West Norwood London,it is in 3 pieces has 6 open holes 5 keys thought to be silver or silver plated,any information would be appreciated (anonymous)
    • I have a blackwooden flute also made by the same co with the same markings, although mine comes in 2 pieces, has six holes and plays in F#. Have you managed to find out any further information about yours ie its age etc? (Ali)
    • Hello. I don't know how old your posting is but I can give you a little information about Starck Barnes. My great grandmother was a Starck and she married a Barnes. I believe they set up a flute company in West Norwood called Starck Barnes. They were related to the more famous Henry Starck who made bagpipes. Your flute must date back to at least late Victorian times but I will check more with my Uncle - they were his grandparents - who made oboes and flute in his own name until about 15 years ago. (anonymous)
  • This question is not about a wooden flute, but I thought maybe someone would possibly have some information about a flute I just purchased. The keyless flute is made of metal (nickel-plated brass) with removable headjoint. The headjoint has a flat round embouchure made of bakelite. It has six holes and tuned in Bb (I think). There are no markings anywhere that I can see, such as serial number or maker. It has been used though - there are several wear marks. My husband and I thought maybe it was manufactured for a fife and drum corp. Not sure. If anyone has any info on a flute of this kind, please respond. (Pnickies)
  • Can anyone tell me the history of the simple system piccolo as it pertains to Irish Traditional Music? When they were used, when they went out of favor, and why? Any suggested reference material would be appreciated. (anonymous)
  • I recently aquired an 8-key wooden flute and was wondering if anyone had any information on the the company it was made by. There is a very light marking on it that reads: D (then under that) Cary (then under that) London. There is also a letter "P" stamped on the bottom of the low C# key. The person I bought it from said it was made in the mid 1800's. Any info would be helpful, thanks! (e-lot)
    • It`s possible that the flute you speak of would be a contempory of one of the flutes I own. They are given the generic name of London quays flutes, made between the early half of the 1800`s to the middle. Made from mostly caucous wood with hallmarked solid silver keys. Any easy way to get an estimate age would be to have a jeweller assess the date stamps. However dont take the dates you`re given as gospel. It was common for makers to have silver on these flutes that pre-dated the actual age of the instrument itself. (anonymous)
  • I have an old (ca 1920?) piccolo (ebony with silver metal parts) made bij F. Hofinger Bruxelles. Logo is a 6 pointed star. Can anyone mail me with the history of this firm and as well give me an idea of the price for which I could sell it? Thanks, Jan (Netherlands) (anonymous)
  • KRUSPE FLUTE: I have a wooden flute with the markings: "CKRUSPE ERFURT 471 C". As to further markings: Each of the 3 pieces of the flute has been labelled by Kruspe. There are insignias: A butterfly with a 'C' in one wing and a 'K' in the other wing. Each piece also has a little dot to line up the adjoining piece. The case has an emblem on the bottom but it is hard to decipher. From what I can see, it is a Star in the middle of a circle surrounded by smaller stars and a word, but I can't make out the word. It was my Grandfather's flute when he was in the Danish Army during the 1st World War. I am hoping that someone is aware of the Kruspe Flutes. I am interested in knowing how or where would I go to learn more about this flute and determine its age. Also, I'd like to determine who made it (Carl Kruspe Sr. or his sons)? etc. Their company 'C Kruspe' was apparently sold in 1920 to G. H. Huller Company of Schoneck. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. (CdnSinding)
  • I have a very beautiful connical bore, rosewood body, nickle plated head and tuning barrel, with a bakelite embouchure, 10 Key simple system flute with the name "Lehne & Komp, Hannover" stamped prominently on both of the wood body parts. It is in almost perfect condition with the most classicaly beautifully grained rosewood and gently beveled tone holes. The keys all appear to be German Silver and it has serial number 394 stamped just below the upper tenon joint. I have not been able to find any information on my flute....would someone please give me a helping hand...thanks....jasbenj (Jerry Schurr) (Jasbenj2)
  • I purchased what it seems to be a rosewood fife (14.75 inches)made by Henry Potter & Co with the adress 36-38 West Street Charing Cross London (marks on both pieces). It looks to be Ok, however the crown it's missing. How can I date it(approximatly)? And should I try to get a rosewood crown? (Gil)
  • Hello - I have inherited a piccolo, an instrument I know nothing about. It has not been kept in a case but seems quite clean and intact and is marked Hawkes & Son with their address and the number 5212 marked on each of the three pieces. It is just under 1' long and has six 'holes'. I would rather it belong to someone who would appreciate it but obviously want to receive a fair price for it. I have no idea on this so can someone out there help me please with approximate date & value. Elizabeth (anonymous)
    • If you can send me more details and a picture i will give you a rough idea how much it is worth. Hawkes & sons made several different class of piccolos,Excelsior Sonorous Class, First Class and Crown AZ. Contact me at brwnk994@aol.com Kenny (anonymous)
  • I am looking for infomation about a wooden flute I was able to aquire recently. It is three sections, grenadilla, 6 holes and 6 keys. Maker is E. Kleinert, Breslau. Can anyone supply information on maker and era? Your help will be greatly appreciated. (Jerry)
  • How do you clean and lubricate the telescoping tuning slides? I have a well-worn C. Pelubet 4-key flute with lots of big cracks, and am trying to get it going as best as I can. I'd also love to hear from other Pelubet owners! Greg the Pianotuner (Greg the Piano Tuner)
  • My mother bought a type of flute for me about two weeks ago because she thought it was a piccolo that I could use in marching band, but when it got here it was described as a small flute. I looked all over the net for three hours and think that the flute is really a fife, but still not really sure. Could someone please help me out and tell me what kind of flute this is and if there is any way I can learn to play it? It comes in two pieces a head and body and is obviously wooden. There are four keys (I'm guessing nickle), a thumb, two pinky keys, and a key between middle and ring finger on the right hand. It is a J. Wallis & Son with a lyre on the head joint. Someone please help me out. (anonymous)
  • (anonymous)
  • I bought a wooden (ebony/grenadilla?) Boehm system flute about fifteen years ago at a folk festival. It has nickel/silver keys and a lovely sound. It has the name Madson or Medson engraved on the body and I have not been able to find anything out about it. Has anyone heard of this manufacturer? Thanks Nicky xxx (anonymous)
  • Hello, I am new to Irish flute, so I have some questions.... 1. My flute is a simple 6-hole flute, plus 1 key, (7th) hole. It is about 15" long, made of very dark, wood, 2 pieces, and is marked LONDON IMPROVED PD. I believe it is about 1850 circa. Can anyone tell me more about the history of this flute? Is PD the makers initials (I'm guessing). 2. I have notices some longer, keyless flutes add a 7 & 8th hole. I'm wondering what these do, since they cannot be reached easily, and there are no keys like on a Bohem system. 3. Does anyone know of an Irish Flute teacher in the Indianapolis, IN area? Thanks very much, Chris in Indy (jeanmario)
  • I am a beginner Irish flute player and collector. I recently aquired two old large keyed fifes. The first has an ivory head stock and ebony body and is marked Berteling New York; the second is fully ivory and is marked Manzane, London. Can any one give me a rough estimate of the probable vintage of these instruments? (anonymous)
  • Hi there, I have an old Henry Potter Bb flute. It is 14.12 inches (37.5cm) has 5 keys and has HY Potter & Co LONDON stamped on it. I am looking to find out some more information about it. If anyone can help, please contact me and I can send photos if it helps. Thanks! Emily (anonymous)
  • Hi, I am posting this request on behalf of my father. He has a wooden flute which is antique. It comes in a wooden box and says that it is made in South Africa. The flute has parts made of Ivory and is crafted beautifully. He picked it up when he was living in Ireland in the 70's. We have made contact with a museum in South Africa for an evalaution but I was wondering has anyone come across something like this before. I will post photos if anyone is interested. Cheers (anonymous)
  • I realise that this site is dedicated to flutes, but I have a couple of questions relating to an old clarinet that a friend of mine has, and after doing a Google search, this site appears to be (hopefully) my best chance so far of getting some answers. Unfortunately both the clarinet itself and the case are in pretty poor condition and the only markings that I can find on it are what I assume to be the makers brand, ie Dalbert & Co, Paris. My questions are as follows : 1 - can anyone provide me with any information and/or history on this particular brand? 2 - I live in Sydney Australia, so can anyone provide me with the name of someone reputable and local to me who can repair/restore this instrument? I can provide photographs of the instrument via email if it helps, and I can be contacted at celtic33@optusnet.com.au cheers, Scott (UriahsWizard)

Learning

  • I am a beginning Irish flute player in Indianapolis, Indiana. I also play the Concert flute and piccolo. Does anyone know of a Irish/Wooden flute teacher in my area? (anonymous)
    • Grey Larsen is in Bloomington IN (an hour south of you). I have taken several lessons from him, and played at many sessions with him at Borders. He is very good. His web site(http://www.greylarsen.com/) has contact info. An interview with Grey is at http://www.sover.net/~bhurley/larsen.html Best, Diana (Diana)
    • Please see my website (brand new- under construction) for note-for-note transcriptions of Irish traditional music performances. This is how I learned uilleann pipes and timber flute without a teacher in my area.

      The url is FlyingPiper.com

      http://flyingpiper.com

      Also, I am running a promotion on eBay. Here is one of the auctions, please check it out:

      http://search.yahoo.com/bin/search?p=%22safety+paper%22

      or search for item #152248593
      or search for Molloy Tarbolton Irish Flute (any or all of those words)

      Tom flyingpiper.com (Phiobaire)

    • Hi, Please let me know if you find a teacher in Indy, as I am also interested. Thanks, Chris chrisdeis@comcast.net (jeanmario)
  • I'm seeking a teacher in Belfast. Not necessarily for WOODEN flute as unfortunately I have to stick with my conventional one until I can play better! Can anyone help? (anonymous)
    • yes francis mcpeakes at st john the baptists finaghy road nort on wednesday nights or barney secondary school on the antrim road on thursday nights (anonymous)
    • Wooden flute and "conventional" flutes are different with respect to embouchure and finger position.This may not help, but hinder your ability to play the wooden flute. Just a thought, but maybe a helpful one. I started on silver flute when I was 7 years old and had to unlearn some habits. That took alittle while. Luckily I was younger when forced to rid myself of these habits. (Brett Lipshutz)
    • Wooden flute and "conventional" flutes are different with respect to embouchure and finger position.This may not help, but hinder your ability to play the wooden flute. Just a thought, but maybe a helpful one. I started on silver flute when I was 7 years old and had to unlearn some habits. That took alittle while. Luckily I was younger when forced to rid myself of these habits. (Brett Lipshutz) (Brett Lipshutz)
    • Davy Maguire , Cresent Art centre, Belfast..New term commencing soon , courses run for ten weeks ..beginners intermediate and advanced catered for, small class sizes! Other instruments taught include Uillean pipes, Fiddle,Concertina,Whistle,Guitar accompaniment for Irish traditional music, Music theory and Irish/set dancing also feature..+end of term concerts to showcase your talents!! theres also art ,language and culture classes.. (anonymous)
  • I am a beginner and bought an irish type polymer flute in D but my hands are so small my fingers will never cover the holes easily enough to ever play it.Any advice on a future purchase of an inexpensive D flute i can play or am i destined to switch to a fife (calde)
    • Am a beginner myself, but have just discovered that Casey Burns produces (in the US) a flute for small hands - not cheap at about 625 pounds sterling for a keyless flute - but he seems to be the only one and people speak incredibly highly of his flutes. address : //kendaco.telebyte.com/cburns/ And don't give up - others among us have the same problem. !!! (Cathy )
    • Hi! I too am a beginner and have a Seery polymer (delrin) keyless flute in D and find the finger spcing a bit much but it is getting better as I practice. I too am told to BE PATIENT. This is a common problem. Karen - Ohio USA (Karen McCurdy - Ohio)
    • Casey Burns makes an excellent flute. You get more than what you pay for. His design is great for people with small hands or for people with broken paws like mine. When Casey made mine he offered to rework the mid section until we had placements that my hands could deal with. We struck gold the first time around. Bob - Derry, NH - USA ()
    • Casey Burns makes an excellent flute. You get more than what you pay for. His design is great for people with small hands or for people with broken paws like mine. When Casey made mine he offered to rework the mid section until we had placements that my hands could deal with. We struck gold the first time around. Bob - Derry, NH - USA ()
    • WInd Dancer Folkwinds specializes in inexpensive, but very attractive and good sounding PVC flutes which are great for small hands. www.folkwinds.com (Folkwinds)
    • I just bought a Calmont flute. It is polymer, has a large bore-so smaller spred for the tone holes, plays very well in tune, and is tunalble. But fife/picc wouldn't be a bad chose either. I find I play my Sweetheat fife more at sessions than anything else. It cuts through a loud session better than my whistle or flute, espesially in the lower register!!! Dan H. (anonymous)
  • I AM CURRENTLY PLAYING TIN WHISTLE AND WOULD LOVE TO START PLAYING THE FLUTE. WHATS A GOOD STARTER FLUTE FOR ME ( A NICE ONE) (anonymous)
    • m and E polymer flute is great -Brian (PURCEY)
    • Try Brian Byrne flutes - He's in Vermont. (anonymous)
    • desi seery in ennis. contact custysmusic.ie ()
    • Buy one of the used Casey Burns that are for sale. They have closer finger spacings than the Pratten pattern (but still fairly wide). This will help you get used to an Irish flute, and your hands to stretch so you don't develop hand problems. Get one with a tuning slide as well. - Alfy (alfy)
    • I would sugest you try piccolo. Ralph sweet makes a nice affordable one with interchangable picc and whistle heads. Dan H. (anonymous)
  • I'm a flute player living in Sydney .. looking for a teacher or somebody to practice with ... can anybody help? Thanks - Micealo (Micealo)
    • Hey Micealo. I too am a flute player, living in Sydney - City. It would be nice to practice and learn from each other. You can contact me at craig1900@hotmail.com Cheers! Craig. ) (anonymous)
  • I am a beginning Irish flute player in Esslingen, Germany. (Keyless 8 hole D Flute). Does anyone know of a Irish flute player, who can help me a little bit in lerning it, in my area? (jens)
    • There is a woman in Recklinghausen in Westphalia called Lisa Lochthowe who is a recognised and well experienced flute teacher.Her phone number is 02361 12311. Gnarlybird (gnarlybird)
    • Christoph Zimmerli http://www.prova.ch/lehrer/zimmerli_ch.html Winterthur ist doch viel nher wie Westfahlen Gruss Urs Bgli (Urs)
  • I love the sound of wooden flutes and I really want to learn to play one. I can play a concert flute and picollo already, are the Boehm style flutes played in the same way with the same fingerings? I will probably have to learn on my own at first seeing as I live in a small town and I would like to start off with something I know I will be able to get started with.. (anonymous)
    • Try Tulou Method. You can find an English traslation in http://www.i-gadgets.com/bookstore/books-flute.html (anonymous)
    • I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
    • Boehm flute fingering doesn't know if it's "in D" or "in C" (hence better chromatic facility). Standard "concert flutes" with "simple system" (4-8 key) fingering, Baroque flutes with 1 key and "Irish" flutes with no keys are all "in D"; i.e. the six-finger note (xxx xxx) is D above middle C and removing fingers sequentially till all are lifted, then "going over the break" to oxx xxx will give a scale of D major. The main thing Boehm flute players therefore have to contend with is that their F-natural fingering (xxx xoo) gives F# and C-natural (xoo ooo)gives B. A full standard fingering chart for the 8 key concert flute can be found in the front of what used to be a commonly used intermediate level flute tutor published by Boosey and Hawkes, by one Otto Langey (it also gives Radcliffe &/or 1867 (? I think) model fingerings as well as both open G# and closed G# Boehm charts!) If you alredy play the tin-whistle, you'll have no problem, and it really ain't that bad.... Did it meself about 20 years ago, and have hardly touched my poor old Boehm flute since! A combination of scale practice and just playing tunes will do the trick. Go for it, and good luck. (Jem Hammond)
  • Does anyone know of wooden flute teachers in the Northamptonshire, Buckinghamshire, Oxfordshire, Bedfordshire area of England? I'm a bit desperate!! - doing lessons through Scoiltrad, but feel the need of a real person! Want someone good though, since I've been learning for 3 years and had a very good teacher previously in Norwich. (Cathy )
  • Help! I am very new at the irish flute and need some encouragement. I received my Seery delrin keyless about 6 weeks ago. I am also a hammered dulcimer player and we play very fast at our jam sessions. How long can I expect to feel so awkward trying to play a little faster on my flute. My hands and wrists feel so stiff. What am I doing wrong? What exercises do I need to do to relax (or strengthen/stretch) my hands and wrists. (Karen McCurdy - Ohio)
    • The hardest thing about being good at one thing is that we, as adults, always want to be good at everything we pick up right away. The best thing to do is to play slowly until you feel comfortable playing that way. Try to achieve a nice traditional session pace. It must be very difficult to do this when everyone else is playing fast. But one must be able to play comfortably at a fairly relaxed tempo before ripping up the tunes. As for the stretches... I had a lot of wrist and shoulder problems for a while. After a three hour set dance ceili or bar gig I was really hurting. Find a position that makes you feel like you're not going to drop the flute. Many people feel like the flute is going to fall out of their hands, and thus grip harder. Tis can happen especially if you have small hands. Also, this may sound new- agey, but there are two yoga stretches that seem to have cured my arm/wrist & shoulder tensions. Basically, you take your left arm and put it behind your back, back of the hand touching between your shoulder blades, almost right on the spine. Having accomplished this feat, you take your right arm and pull it up behind your head, palm touching the palm of the left hand. Now, if you can do this, and lots of people have to practice to get to the point of joining the hands together, then bend your fingers, those of the right hand fitting over those of the left. Pull toward your head with the right hand and toward your lower back with the left. After all of this, then switch directions putting the right hand, back touching the middle of the upper back, etc. I usually do each arm twice, letting the muscles unwind, usually about 20 seconds each arm. The other stretch is hard to explain in writing. It basically involves putting both arms, elbows straight, behind your back. Hands should point downward, palms touching. Next, using your spine as a guide turn your hands up, palms still touching, and advance them until they are in the small of your back. These take some time if one is not flexible, but they are very good for avoiding tension build up. You can also bend your arms slightly, as well as your wrists, as if you're going to type something and shake them, hands included, until " the meat falls from the bone". This last quote comes from a book called "The Art of Practicing" by Madeline Bruser. She is most definitely a piano teacher, but there are some great techniques for having a relaxed playing technique as she invites a flute teacher to discuss practicing the flute. Now, obviously the flutist is a silver flute player and some things she says are for the silver flute, but there is no harm in reading what she says. Some of it is universal in the flute world. (Brett Lipshutz)
    • I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
  • (anonymous)
  • I am ready to purchase my first Irish flute after several years of playing the silver flute. I know that I want a polymer flute as the climate where I live is rather harsh. What I don't know is if I should purchase a keyless flute to start off, or if it would be better to have a few keys right from the start. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks very much! (kaeru)
  • I live in Raleigh, North Carolina. Does any one know of a good teacher close by? If not, what's the best way to learn how to play the wooden/Irish flute on your own? (Candy)
    • I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". For information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
  • I'm considering getting into wooden flute but I'd be interested in finding out about players, makers and dealers in eastern Canada. Anyone have any ideas? (peter)
    • Well, I'm in southern new brunswick. I havn't found any other players around, but I just go out to the local sessions and play with the wistle players. Makers... I don't know. There's a guy who sells a decent beginner wooden flute (what I'm using right now) in Winterport ME, near Bangor. Send me an email if you're nearby. Craig Martin (Viich)
  • I have recentaly got a wooden flute (like the one at the bottom of the page, the same keys etc).Im just wondering if anyone coulde send (e-mail) me a fingering chart and more help e.g. about keys what they do, cause im cunfused. I play the normal sliver flute so im not a beginner to flutes. Please help. I would be very gratful.Thank you Fbrignull (14) P.S email- fbrignull@aol.com (anonymous)
    • Look at the chart available on this site under the "playing" section - v useful (Treebeard)
    • You can find fingering charts in Tim Reichards page www.wfg.woodwind.org or Terry McGees www.mcgee-flutes.com (anonymous)
    • I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
  • Does anyone have any idea where I can get a copy of the tape which is supposed to accompany Fintan Vallely's "Timber: Flute Tutor"? Walton Music seem to be selling the book having deleted the tape. Very unfair I would say! (rass)
    • I got mine from mally.com (anonymous)
    • Hobgoblin Music (www.hobgoblin.com) were selling last time I looked (Treebeard)
  • Hello. I just bought a piccolo with 4 keys. Could someone help me find a fingering chart for a 4-keyed flute or piccolo? Any help would be much appreciated. (David)
    • There is a flute tutor by Mssrs. Hugot and Wunderlich which includes a fold-out chart for a four-key flute. I'm almost positive that the book is out of print, and even if it's not, it's all in French. I found a copy in a university library. Iy's a facsimile from 1804, the date it was published. I have a copy of the fingering chart, if you would like to e-mail me perhapsI could send one to you. (Brett Lipshutz) (Brett Lipshutz)
    • Most of 5keyed flute fingerings will probably fit (except those with Ckey, which I suppose you lack!). Why don't you try www.mcgee-flutes.com page for fingering charts? (anonymous)
  • I have a Seery Delrin keyless and have struggled with it for almost a year because my hands are small and the reach is just too far. Please suggest some makers who have nice flutes for smaller hands. This is very frustrating, so much so that I have all but given up and turned to the silver flute. (Karen McCurdy - Ohio)
    • Casey Burns specializes in making flutes for people with small hands. Check out his website at http://www.caseyburnsflutes.com/. (greylarsen)
  • My sister and I are in a debate over the piccalo, I think that when you play, you hold the instrument straight down in front of you. She thinks that you hold it to the side like a flute. Could someone please let me know which way is the correct way? (anonymous)
    • How on earth could you get a note out of it if you hold it straight down in front of you!! (Sarah)
    • It's a "piccolo" (Italian for "small"!) and it is held to the side just like its big brother, the flute. (Jem Hammond)
  • Why won't anyone answer my question? I just want to know the correct way to hold a piccalo. (anonymous)
    • A piccalo is a small flute that plays an octave higher than a normal (concert) flute - so you play it to the side. (anonymous)
  • I'm a beginner at the Irish flute, though I have a long history of playing Irish music on fiddle, mandolin, and tinwhistle. I'm looking to find a good instructor in San Francisco or the Bay Area. Does anyone know a good player who teaches? I don't know anyone who plays flute, and don't want to learn solely from audio/video sources. Thanks--Michael. (michael)
    • I would suggest Jack Gilder. His email is jgilder@jps.net. I would also like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
  • Hi there, I am looking for a wooden flute teacher in and around the Glasgow area? Anybody know if there is someone from the RSAMD traditional music course who could teach me? Im an experienced classical flute player, but am just new to the Irish flute. Thank you. (anonymous)
    • Try Kevin O Neill. kev_oneill@hotmail.com Phone: 0141 569 9436 (anon)
  • I HAVE JUST RECENTLY BOUGHT A dE kEYZER FLUTE IN THE KEY OF D.I AM A CLASSICALLY TRAINED FLUTE PLAYER AND AM STILL FINDING IT DIFFICULT TO PROPERLY COVER THE HOLES WHEN I PLAY. ANY TIPS OR ADIVCE? WOULD ANYBODY RECCOMEND ME GETTING SOME KEYS PUT ON IT? THANKS (Susan)
  • Are there any Irish wooden flute teachers / tutors in the Seattle, Washington area (north western U.S.)? (goldenwolfeyes) (anonymous)
  • Hi, Can anyone point me in the direction of wooden flute workshops in the UK? I have been playing dance music on a Boehm system flute for a couple of years now and am moving to a wooden flute, and am aware that I am inadequate in the embellishment department. Failing workshops, are there are any teachers in the Leeds area (or further afield - but not too far), or as a last resort can anyone recommend a good DIY-style CD and/or instruction book on embellishments? (Oidhche)
    • Contact me personally and I'll tell you what I can - e-mail me at jemhammond@fsmail.net. I'm based near Wrexham in N. Wales. (Jem Hammond)
  • Greetings, I live in Winston-Salem NC and am interested in learning how to play ITM on a flute. I have a fair amount of musical experience - highland pipes, recorders, whistles, and guitar. Can anyone recomend a competent teacher in central North Carolina? I live in the Triad but often travel to the Raleigh/Durham area. Thanks! 2nd question - if I do find a teacher and purchase a flute, I'd probably go plastic for maintenance purposes. The major synthetic makers seem to be M & E, Seery, and Dixon. Is there a huge diffeence between these instruments? Thanks! McK (McK)
  • I am living in Waterford Ireland and would like private or other lessons on the wooden flute.i am a beginner and would like to learn from ear as I do not read music yet. Thanks Paulo (anonymous)
  • I just purchased an Irish wooden flute and I cannot figure out how to hold my mouth to get any sound to come out of it. Can anyone help me? (anonymous)
  • I heard a recording of a Gospel song titled "My Soul Finds Rest in God Alone" and at the beginning of the song sounds like a wooden flute, but it almost has an acoustic tone to it. Is it possible to make a wooden flute acoustic? And are there any CD's with nothing but wooden flute? (Rebel_Stargazer97)
  • Hello there ... I'm from Sacramento California and I have always loved the music and sound of an Irish wooden flute, and all of a sudden I've got itchy fingers to try my hand in learning this lovely instrument. I am the classic, "no nothing of istruments kinda girl" so I need all the help and advice I can gather. I am looking to find a fairly inexpensive beginners flute, type and material ect... as well as where I can aquire lessons. I have always been the type to teach myself new things but I am not confident in this field whatsoever ... and clearly I'm not sure what I am getting myself into! Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!!! (MellyMel)
  • (anonymous)
  • (anonymous)
  • My mother bought a type of flute for me about two weeks ago because she thought it was a piccolo that I could use in marching band, but when it got here it was described as a small flute. I looked all over the net for three hours and think that the flute is really a fife, but still not really sure. Could someone please help me out and tell me what kind of flute this is and if there is any way I can learn to play it? It comes in two pieces a head and body and is obviously wooden. There are four keys (I'm guessing nickle), a thumb, two pinky keys, and a key between middle and ring finger on the right hand. It is a J. Wallis & Son with a lyre on the head joint. Someone please help me out. (anonymous)
  • I am keenly interested in learning Irish Flute. I am a beginner and I live in Boston, MA. Could you guys recommend a good instructor for absolute beginner around this area? Any advice is appreciated. (anonymous)
  • I have absolutely no idea on how to play my flute! I don't know any notes and I have a six hole wooden flute. Please help me! Can you tell me the notes for a six hole flute? What is the website talking about when it talks about Keys? (anonymous)
  • I have a wooden flute believed to have been made by my great grandfather, who was from Dalmatia, Croatia. He emigrated to the U.S. in 1900. I'd like to learn how to play it. It appears to be fairly basic--a wooden tube with six fingering holes. Along the body of the flute itself, every two inches or so, wire is wrapped around in inset channels. It appears to be for decoration only, but I have no idea. Does anyone know anything wooden flutes in this region? Could you recommend a good starter book for learning how to play for someone who knows nothing about the flute? I once knew how to read music (I played the organ and piano), but it's been a long time, so I think I better start over. It would be cool to learn how to play Croatian or Balkan flute songs, and I'm wondering if I could play Native American flute songs on this flute. Thank you so much. This is a very interesting site! (M Churchill)
  • Hello All, I used to be a flute maker in Ireland but never learned to play properly. I looked around this site for help on how to learn the Irish Flute (I have one that I made myself) but only found information on 4, 6 and 8 keyed flutes. My flute has no keys, only the 6 holes. Can anyone help me out? Maybe even with videos? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Happy playing. (Kevin_IRL)

Maintenance

  • A friend recently told me that that new petroleum jelly with a high wax content (I think its made by vaseline) makes a good polish for wooden flutes. is that really true, or are we talking massive instrument damage? (MWBailey)
    • I Think the more complicated the mixture the more you should ask whether to do or not to do?! I only use almond oil for inside and outside. Try it and tell me. Michael Vester (Michael Vester)
    • Personally I don't like the feel of oily fingers when I play and prefer to oil only the inside and wax the outside of my flute. If you want to use wax, why dilute it with the grease of petroleum jelly? I use paste, non-skid, floor wax. Nice finish, good seal, not too slick. (Clark)
    • I believe that most veteran woodwind repair people will tell you that petroleum products should never be placed on the wood. They do not interact in a natural fashion with the lignins, and accelerate deterioration of the wood. I don't worry about polishing my flute, I just want it to sound good and last a lifetime. I treat the inside and outside with almond oil to which I've added 1% vitamin E oil as an antioxidant. I add the oil using a cotton tipped applicator (medical supply house), at a time when the flute has dried a couple of hours from the last playing - some intrinsic moisture, but not -wet-. I leave the oil on overnight and then remove the residual thoroughly with a paper towel or cotton cloth. (Larry Mallette)
  • What kind of 'grease' should I use on thread wrapped tenon joints? (Jay)
    • Normal "cork grease" does the trick. I use a home-brew mixture of beeswax and almond oil. (webmaster)
    • bees wax (anonymous)
    • Red Klister ski wax. (Mal)
    • Mal has a cruel sense of humour. Don't put klister on your flute! :) "cork grease" as sold for clarinets, etc, is best. It's really a soft, oily wax. JMK (anonymous)
  • I am hoping that even though this is a flute forum, someone might be able to assist with a question on a wooden recorder. One of the recorders in our consort goes very fuzzy (in sound) after only a short time playing. Blowing the recorder out (ie, blocking the fipple hole and giving it a firm blow) doesn't seem to be fixing it. Thinking about it, the recorder is never as clear sounding as it should be. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to clear up this congestion? (anonymous)
    • It probably needs to be revoiced; that is, the block needs to be removed and reshaped. The reason that it gets fuzzy is that the block swells and changes the caliber of the windway. Contact the New England Early Music Shop or Lee Collins (look on the net) for information. (anonymous)
    • Softer woods swell faster with the moisture from playing. If it is an inexpensive instrument, it is probably just maple and will blow out quite quickly. I hate to say it but with inexpensive recorders it is best to go with plastic, as they will never swell. (Tim)
    • As it seems that the recorder responds fairly well at the beginning of the play session, it seems to me that the cause of the problem is most probably the condensation of moisture in the wind channel when warm, humid air flows through the cold, narrow tunnel and sticks to its sides making turbulents in the air flow. You can avoid the condensation by warming up the dry (before starting to play) mouthpiece in your hands (or under your clothes) till it aquires approximately the same temperature as you breath. (anonymous)
  • I know this debate has been raging about oiling (or not) and what kind. Specifically, I would like to know if I were to oil my flute with a botanical oil would it go rancid over time? I do not like petroleum based oils at all. I would like to add a light coat of frankinscence, balsam fir, and lemon oil with equal parts to 1/5 part of grapeseed oil. I am not sure if this is really needed. My flutemaker recommends oiling. But, I have a cocobolo fife that I sanded down and refinished with minwax and a blowdryer 22 years ago. Other than occasionally polishing the brass ferrules, I've done no other maintenance and had absolutely no problems. (Saoirse)
  • looking for a supplier of pads for 6 key simple system flutes, thanks david (anonymous)
    • You won't find one, as such. However, most serious woodwind shops, or their in-house repairer, should have a stock of "pill" type card-backed leather pads in a range of sizes, manufactured for the modern oboe and clarinet. Whether these are suitable or adaptable for your flute depends on the type of keys fitted and their clearance above the hole. Terry McGee's site has a page on doctoring these types of pad to fit "saltspoon" type keys - I have used/adapted his method with success for my R&R. I source my (clarinet) pads, shellac for fixing them, springs, etc by mail-order from a firm called Windcraft, (www.windcraft.co.uk) who carry an enormous range of woodwind spares and materials and have an excellent on-line catalogue. (I have no link whatever to the firm, just a satisfied customer!) Incidentally, the clarinet pads are available in all sizes at 0.5mm graduations. You have to measure the interior diameters of your key cups before ordering. If your flute originally had "purse-string" type wool-stuffed leather pads, this (Terry's) method should work - you can trim, reduce or remove both the card backing and the felt wadding (I had to cut the felt in half laterally with a razor blade) in the modern pads to produce the appropriate thickness and a back shape that will fit into your keys. Alternatively, and I haven't tried this personally, you could make up purse-string pads in the original way with some very thin, soft leather, a scrap of sheeps wool and a needle and thread; though I daresay it would take a bit of practice to get sizes and tension right! If your flute has flat cupped keys, the same method of adapting clarinet pads should serve - at 3mm they are usually too thick for a C19th flute. If you have totally flat keys, square or round, then you just shellac or glue on trimmed-to-shape soft leather (butter up your local leather worker!), skin-side down (to the tone-hole), c1.5-2mm thick depending on clearance; obviously you can trim the thickness of the leather on the "flesh" side. Good luck! (Jem Hammond)
  • Ihave just aquired a wooden flute(Rudall,carte and co, radcliff's model no 6242) and it is in great need of attention as it hadn't been maintained for over 40 years. I am a recorder player and know how to look after the wood but the keys, i have no idea. They sound and feel crunchy (like paper)and make a noise like they are 'sticking' to the holes every time they are pressed down.Iwas wondering if I need to change them and if so how and what pads do we need to get(ie do we need original or will other pads do). (anonymous)
    • I've heard of using silicon caulk... I don't know which one, but I saw a flute that used it and it was great. Post and someone will be able to answer how... Jean (anonymous)
  • Hello :) I would like to know if the use of a "pad-saver" with a wooden flute is a good thing or not. Normally, this item is made for keeping dry pads in metal flutes. But I wonder if it would save a wooden flute from moisture, if such a pad-saver was left in the instrument when unused. I am not sure it is a good idea... Perhaps the effect would be to dry too much the flute, or on the contrary would let the wood in contact with the moisture impregnated in the pad-saver. So, what would you advise? (Fred Merch)
    • I would advise not leaving a pad-saver in any instrument when not in use, even metal ones. When I use them for my silver flute, I only leave them in for about 30 minutes, then remove them. They will do more harm than good if left any longer. Roxanne (anonymous)
  • Hi, Please forgive me if I have missed something that is right under my nose - but is there a forum where us newcomers can introduce ourselves? I have made and played bamboo flutes for some time and am about to receive an old Ebonite 8 key Irish flute. I'd like to refurbish it myself and have already seen a lot of information here - thanks guys But Is there anyone in the UK Midlands who could take a look to prevent me trying to fix what aint broke! (anonymous)
  • I have a copy of a G. A Rottenburgh that banana'd shortly after I received it back in 1984. The maker has tuned it sometime ago and there was a repair to the foot, required due to a wrapping error on my part. I really love this flute. After a long hiatus I am returning to flute playing and I want to re-wrap the tenons on this flute. Heres the problem. The upper joint on the upper barrel is nowhere near round. The bottom of the head, though not perfect, is at least close to round. If I just wrap the tenon evenly it connects at the side and the flute rocks at the joint. I recently learned that the maker of the flutes workshop closed this year so I am not sure I want to bother her Does anyone know of a good approach to wrapping an elliptical tenon so the wrap ends up round? Thank you. (Pat T.)

makers

  • I Have A Flute Made by E.Lambe of Co.Clare and im looking for anyone who can give me information on him or his Flutes. (anonymous)
  • (anonymous)
  • I need a keyless picollo (high d) with a tuning slide?Who knows a flutemaker?I have some inormations about a picollo from Kevin Douglas Jones flutemaker in Germany but i can not found his adress.Thanks for answers (anonymous)
  • I was wondering if Murray keyed flutes accommodate a "piper's grip?" Judging by what I've seen, he places blocks low enough for the left hand and the right hand to be unobstructed. Is that accurate? (anonymous)
  • Hi, I'm a flute maker in Australia and I am currently making a batch of flute with 3-4 keys instead of the 6-keyed flutes I usually make. I'd really like to know given the option of only 3-4 keys, what are the most preferred you would want? I look forward to your response. Russel. (anonymous)

Origin

  • My father just gave me a wood and silver flute that has been in our family for many years. It has an inscription that reads: Success F.Hofinger Bruxelles 900. It also has a 6-point star engraving, seemingly part of the rest of the inscription. I would like to know the origin of this flute, and if possible, its value. It hasn't been maintained properly, but I cannot see any cracks. I would welcome any information. (Bertie)
    • Florent Hofinger was former employee of C.Mahillon. He founded his own firm in 1900 in Bruxelles, Belgium. He died in 1945 but his firm kept going, run by his daughter, until 1950. (Source: The New Langwill Index). (Richard Moon)
    • I have a Hofinger flute (wooden body, silver head, bfoot and gizmos) which I use almost all the time professionally. It has no number, and is not a 'success' model, but I bought it in excellent condition for 5000 Dutch guilders in December 1998, so maybe that helps! Opinion suggests mine might be a late 1930's or early 40's model, but we don't really know. Hofinger flutes are quite heavy, but have a nice eliptical/ oval blowing hole which seems to suit me - old romantic that I am! Certainly worth investing in repairs (in my opinion)! Dominy Clements (anonymous)
  • I have been given a John Grey 'Dulcetta' piccolo, in near perfect condition. Seems to be rosewood, simple system covered holes (12 keys). I'd love to know the age and approx value if it has one, though I'm not likely to sell. Any ideas? (anonymous)
  • What might the age of a six hole wooden flute made in three parts, with the name "Firth Pond & Co" on each part be? (anonymous)
    • About 1850-55 (anonymous)
  • I am trying to find out the history, age and value of a wooden flute I have. It says MELODIA (written on a scroll across a sun) and underneath are the letters ESH, followed by made in Germany and the intitals C L. P . I've searched the internet and have found nothing. I would appreciate any information you could give me. (RedPony40)
  • My grandfather, who came over from Donegal by way of Scotland around 1919 or so, died in 1933 when my father was 7 or 8. I now have his wooden flute. I am in the process of having it restored. It bears the stamp of "Geo. Closs" on both ends. Anyone know anything about this maker? Not sure if this instrument was made in the US or Europe. (Liam)
    • George Cloos, a German who came to New York and made flutes and fife's in Brooklyn in late 19th early 20th c. (anonymous)
  • I have recently purchased what appears to be a 3 key wooden piccolo. It seems to be made of rosewood but I'm not sure. It is keyed to C. The guy I bought it from said it was an antique but he didn't really know anything about it. Its around 10 inches long with metal mounts and seems to have seen alot of use. Does anyone know what this is? It is the first wooden flute I have owned. Does any one know of the value of an instrument such as this? (anonymous)
  • I have an old flute with a makers mark ( J.w.PEPPER AND SON ) PHILADA.PA PREMIER AND A SER#6595 I would like to learn more about this maker can any one help. Thanks Bill (anonymous)
  • Looking for any information on, Hy Potter & Co. 36 &38 West St, Charing + Road, London. Can not find any web sites. Looking to date flute. (Sonia)
    • Henry Potter Henry Potter was just one of many flutemakers working in London in the middle of the 19th century. Not as famous as Nicholson, Rudall & Rose, Boehm or Pratten, he is often confused with the earlier but seemingly unrelated William Henry Potter. Although Henry died on 31 August 1876, his company continued under his name until 1950. Henry Potter was born in 1810 (the same year as John Clinton) into a family with a solid musical background. Henrys father Samuel Potter (1772 - 1838) had enlisted in the Coldstream Guards at the age of 14 in 1786, and eventually by 1815 had risen to the rank of Regimental Drum Major. Samuel completed 30 years service with the Guards and resigned from the army in 1817 to set up a workshop located in King Street, Westminster for the purpose of making drums and wind instruments. Samuel seems to have concentrated on instruments with a military band connotation, such as drums, bugles, fifes, horns and trumpets. He actually wrote several published treatises, one being a method for playing the fife (1815) and the other being a manual for drums, fifes and bugles (1817). Samuels son Henry (1810 1876) presumably learned about instrument making from his father, and continued the business after his fathers death in 1838. By 1841 he was well established as his fathers successor, with premises at 2 Bridge Street, Westminster. He continued in his fathers footsteps as regards the making of military instruments, but appears to have had a strong interest in flute making as well. Clearly he must have quickly built up a good reputation as a flute maker, since otherwise it is inconceivable that John Clinton would have entrusted the manufacture of the early Clinton-system flutes to him, in particular the 1851 Exhibition model. Henry Potter remained in the instrument business all his life, and his company remained active until around 1950. Henrys son George also participated in the family business, relocating to Aldershot in 1859 at which time he established his own firm of George Potter & Co. This firm focused very much on military band instruments. This company bought the London Potter firm (see above) in 1918 and remained active into the late 1930s. Interestingly, it has not been possible to trace any connection between the above Potter family and the other famous Potter flute-making dynasty of Richard Potter (1726 1806), his son William Henry Potter (1760 1848) and his grandson, Cipriani Potter of the 1851 Great Exhibition Jury. It thus seems that there were two unconnected families of Potters engaged in wind instrument production in London at the same time. There seems to be good evidence that Henry Potter was a well respected maker. Professor John Clinton made use of his services to develop and build the flute which we have studied at Clinton 1851 Flute. But here we look at a flute in Potter's own right. From the Charing Cross address, this flute dates from between 1858 and c1895. It's a very standard 8-key, in the large-holed Nicholson's style, but with the benefit of many years more refinement. The first thing that may be apparent from the image above is that the head (and to a lesser extent, the foot) are coloured differently from the body. Indeed, they appear to be rosewood, while the body appears to be cocus. The barrel is a recent replacement in blackwood. Fortunately, these differences in colour are not apparent under normal light. The parts are all (saving the barrel) stamped Henry Potter, so the seeming mixture of woods may have to remain a mystery. Also unusual is the embouchure is drilled on the "plank" cut (tangential to the tree's growth rings). Most flutes of the period appear to be radially drilled. Playing qualities So, how does it play? Very nicely. It's not the biggest style of flute (such as the Prattens Perfected), but more like a large-holed Rudall and Rose. That gives it a nice balance of volume, with a hearty bottom end and a willing second octave. Third octave is good too, and viable at least up to C''''. Usefully, the flute works well at A440Hz, apparently without flat foot syndrome. As we'll see, that's not quite the full story. Intonation Examination using our "Best Pitch" approach confirms that, while the flute is capable of reaching pitches as high as 461, it is indeed at its best around 440 Hz. Running through the most responsive indicators: low octave pitch tilt - best at 437Hz 2nd octave displacement - 440Hz low foot notes displacement - 442 Hz mid foot notes displacement - 444 Hz break note continuity - 451 Hz These are reflected in the averaged deviations: Note that although the flute is at its best at 440Hz, it is only mildly compromised at high pitch (452). Has Henry Potter deliberately produced a flute for all seasons? Note also the unusual response of the foot notes (both graphs). While earlier flutes showed pronounced flat foot syndrome, the Henry Potter's foot is marginally sharp at 440, sharp at 452 and best around 442Hz. And while most flutes show a less flat C, an intermediately flat D and very flat Eb and C#, the Potter's D is its flattest note. Conclusion and acknowledgements A fine late 2nd generation flute in the grand tradition of the London makers. Effective absence of flat foot problems and flexible tuning useful across the range of pitch in vogue would have made this a very desirable instrument. My thanks to flute owner, Melbourne flute player Andrew Le Blanc, for permitting this analysis and publication. My thanks too to flute researcher Adrian Duncan for biographical information on Henry Potter. could you tell me the length of the flute and what is it made from, african blackwood or ebony ? (Derek)
  • I bought a junk box at an auction that contained a "broken clarinet". This wooden flute is stamped "made in Germany" "Trade Mark" and something else I can't make out but may be 'trade mark' in German. It is also stamped with a lyre and a large "S" that is over two smaller letters, the first one may be a 'G', the second one is an 'H'. Below that is "1CP" with the 'C' higher up. It is made of a dark wood with five open finger holes and has silver keys. Both ends are capped with silver. It has four sections. The upper cap when removed is wood and cork, the next one is metal and the others are cork. The pads appear to be leather and may be underlayed with green felt. Can anyone tell me any history about this instrument and its worth? (JC)
    • Possibly Steinway (piano makers but they marketed flutes also I beleive). (Doug Lanchbery)
  • I have a wooden flute for sale on E-bay and I don't know anything about it. It is item #897763303...Each piece bears the initials H.P. It is in good condition and very old(I Think). I decided to sell it after it sat in my closet for 13 years. I thought it would have the same fingering as my other flute, but it didn't. Does anyone know anything about this flute? (anonymous)
  • I have a wooden flute for sale on E-bay and I don't know anything about it. It is item #897763303...Each piece bears the initials H.P. It is in good condition and very old(I Think). I decided to sell it after it sat in my closet for 13 years. I thought it would have the same fingering as my other flute, but it didn't. Does anyone know anything about this flute? (anonymous)
  • I have Al Purcell's old german flute with ivory embouchure.. 10 keys... love the thing. question is, does anyone have information on the old german makers so i can identify this flute's origins? (mazepiper)
  • I'm currently restoring an old flute and would like to try to identify the maker and approximate age, but there are none of the usual maker marks embossed on the flute. The flute is in a dark brown wood with silver rings and 8 block-mounted silver keys. It is in five sections and has hole placements and sizes much like a Rudall Rose. The head joint is lined, and there is a tuning slide. The lining and tuning slide are not of brass, but of some plated silver or nickle appearing material. The six pads are quite hardened and in need of replacement, so it's not a recent reproduction. The low C and C# holes are covered by pewter plugs. The metal bases on which these plugs rest are circular rather than square, and are each secured by two screws, one on either side of the hole. Two distinctive features: 1. Six black bands about 1.5 mm wide painted or burned around the flute, two on the head joint (one on either side of the embouchure hole) and four around the barrel/neck. I would guess these were intended as a distinctive trademark, in lieu of a maker's mark embossed in the wood. 2. Three orange-ish cork dot silencers, at the points where the rivets securing the springs to the key would touch the wood [for the G-sharp, short F-natural and B-flat keys]. Anybody recognize the maker (and hence approximate age) of this instrument? BTW, it plays quite nicely. Larry (Larry Mallette)
  • Hi, i have found here in my parent's old clouset a wood with silver flute. It has on every part the enscription C. Mahillon, Bruxelles. On some webpages they mention wooden flutes made by C. Mahillon, but they allways have a 5 pointed star on them. (as I saw above, one of his students has a 6 pointed star). My flute has instead of this star a heraldic weapen/ sign/ shield/ coat of arms (don't know, my principal language is dutch). It looks slighly battered, the silver has apperantly oxidated, and there's a little crack in one of the parts. (there are 3) I do know nothing about flutes, but i'd like to know what I have. Thanks for info! (Piere)

Playing

  • I have been trying to teach myself the flute for a year or two now, on & off. Sometimes I seem to get a clear sound but others I don't. I noticed that the embouchure hole , while oval in shape is slanted, i.e. tilted back from left to right. Is this normal or should it be straight? Would this affect the sound & the way I hold the flute? (Micealo)
    • There are many variables to consider when looking at tone production on the flute, especially when we're talking about making a pleasant sound every time you play the flute. Many things can affect good tone production. Your lips could be in a different state on any given day than on any other given day. Your flute could have a leaky joint. The angle at which you're holding the flute could be slightly different than the time before, etc. The best thing to do is to practice in front of a mirror on a flute you know it has been deemed possible to produce a good tone on. Note when you hear a pleasant sound & look at your posture, your lip position and the amount of breath you're using. Some flutes can take a lot of breath while others cannot. Do this every time you practice. Also make sure your tongue does not block the path of the air from the throat through the lips. In regard to your embouchure hole: often wooden flutes have offset embouchure holes. Experiment with the angle of the flute in relation to the mouth. Try raising the flute, then lower it. Pull it back (remain purpendicular to the lips) & push it out away from the body. Always note what you do and eventually you will begin to get better results. Remember:no flutist ever has a great tone every single time he/she plays. But there are things we can do to adjust immediately to such situations. (Brett Lipshutz)
    • Get a good teacher and work on playing long tones. There is no substitute for learning a correct and natural embochure and a good teacher will help correct poor technique before it becomes habit. It is dull and boring work but long tone exercises will pay off, and so will the $$ you spend on lessons. You really cannot self-diagnose this important element of playing very effectively. Randy Howard (anonymous)
    • I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
  • Is there any way to play CD's at a slower speed without changing pitch so that I can learn new tunes? (webmaster)
    • From contribution to woodenflute email list by Ken Laberteaux (edited): Using a program called Winamp, you can slow down mp3 files without changing the pitch, or change the pitch without changing the tempo (handy for Eb albums). Now it looks like you can do this directly from CDs (you need not first convert them to mp3 files). All of this software is free. 1. Download Winamp (the minimum package will suffice) from http://www.winamp.com and install. 2. Download Pacemaker plugin from http://www.hut.fi/~oparviai/pacemaker/ and install. Turn it on by selecting it as your DSP/Effect plugin. The following instructions shows you how to turn it off, so turning it on should be straight forward: http://www.hut.fi/~oparviai/pacemaker/turn-off.html Give it a try with an mp3 file, if you have one. 3. Download CD Reader plugin from http://www.url.ru/~copah/ When you double click, it will install the file to the correct directory and pop up a Readme file. The important thing to get from this Readme file is to disable the default CD playing plugin by renaming in_cdda.dll to in_cdda.dll.off. You will generally find this in the directory C:\program files\winamp\plugins. (You can use the "find file" utility from your start button if you have trouble finding it.) If you don't rename this file, the CD Reader plugin will not work since it is being preempted by the default CD playing plugin (in_cdda.dll) (webmaster)
    • For Mac users, try Amazing Slow Downer via www.versiontracker.com or search for it. julesstock@hotmail.com (anonymous)
    • Sabine produce a device called a backtracker which I found both simple to use and inexpencive it records a sample of up to 30sec.and allows you to play-back in real,3/4.1/2,or 1/3 time thus giving you a section at a time to learn.It has a memory when disconected,earphone socket mono/stereo and is the size of a paper-back novel. Terry Nolan (anonymous)
    • The above mentioned Amazing Slow Downer is available also for PC users. A trial version can be obtained directly from the maker: www.ronimusic.com. I'm using it frequently. It not only plays CD's but music files like mp3 as well. Each tune can be slowed down and also the pitch can be adjusted. Great to learn tunes by playing 'together' with your favourite musicians. Marc (Marc de Wit)
  • I'm a struggling flute player living in Sydney Australia. While I haven't seen any Australian players or teachers listed would anybody know of a teacher in the locality that might be able to help? Is there any Ozzies out there? (Micealo)
    • Any ozzies are welcome to contact me through t.mcgee@dynamite.com.au or 02 6288 8006 - I'll try to identify a teacher (or whatever other flute help they might be looking for) in their area. (Terry McGee)
    • One good place to check is at a college's or universities's musical arts department. Their professors should be well versed in a wide variety of instruments and a good chance they would have a lead, if not the time & availability to give lessons if luck is with you. (anonymous)
  • When I was in Ireland last year I purchased a Tony Dixon plastic traditional irish flute. like many I could not get a sound out at first. after practice, i seem to be able to get the lower octave no problem but struggle on the upper. When I first pick it up, it sounds quite clear but soon after it gets squakey, there seems to be a moisture build up on the inside. after a while when it dries it becomes clearer. is this my imagination. I will be in Ireland May 17-June 8, Any flute lessons in the Athlone area (anonymous)
    • This is caused by the condensation build-up inside the bore, When this happens it will cause the tone to get a sort of fuzzy or unclear sound, To correct this cover all toneholes and cover the embouchure hole completly with your mouth and push a sharp fast gush of air through the flute, this will clear the droplets of condensation from inside the flute, Or better still take the flute apart for a moment and swabb out the inside, (anonymous)
  • I have a new polymer flute which generally sounds great and is from a reputable manufacturer. However, I am an new to flute playing, and I have noticed that when I play a D scale on this keyless flute, the intonation of the C# (all holes uncovered)is off. Is this a problem with my playing, the flute itself, or is a typical problem with keyless traditional flutes? (anonymous)
    • I have found even with my silver flute that I must consciously "lip down" the c#. You may find the c natural also needs to be manipulated, or perhaps "lab-ipulated" in order to keep it in tune. I believe it is a common thing. (woody)
    • I play a Seery Flute myself and I have to say my c sharp is so low it's anoying. I can hardly play in A major...(leonard) (leonard)
  • Weve got a D Irish Flute, but all the music for it is writen for a regular C flute. Would it be ok to play the D flute with the C music? (anonymous)
    • The D flute *is* in C, or to be more accurate, it's in concert pitch. It's called a D flute because the basic scale that it plays (without the using the keys, if you have any) is a D major scale. But it sounds at the same pitch as the D scale that you might play on a modern C flute. (Susan Lawlor)
  • What is the best microphone to use for a wooden flute for live performance? I would like to retain as much of the "acoustic" sound as possible, with clarity and strength but I would also like to minimize feedback. The ideal mic would be attached to the flute so that in outdoor venues I could turn to avoid the wind when necessary but I'm willing to use a stationary mic if that's the only way to get the best sound. (Bob Midden)
    • Microvox in Holmfirth, W. Yorkshire, have the very thing - see their website (websearch on "Microvox" should get you there). Also see Terry McGee's site - pages on "miking a flute" and "mic clip" will help. (Jem Hammond)
  • (cris)
  • I have an M&E polymer keyless flute, and find that c-sharp is almost impossible to play to the right pitch (to low) Does anyone has any suggestions or idea's ? Maybe enlarging the first hole ? Thank you Peter (peter)
    • For sure if you enlarge the first hole all the rest will be strongly affected, and you'll have an out-of-tune flute. I don't think this is the right solution. As Terry Mcgee says "you first have to eliminate the possibility of being your fault, not an instrument problem". Some times is a matter of embouchure position. If not, have you tried alternate fingerings? For c-sharp you can play ooo ooo or ooo xxx. Maybe can try ooo xxo or the same position as for c-natural but opening or closing other holes (like oxx xoo for high c-sharp). This sometimes works. Pablo (anonymous)
  • I have a lovely Haynes silver flute with a low b foot. I am thinkink of switching over to a wooden flute by Terry Mcgee with 8 keys. My question is how this Mcgee flute will perform in other music , such as jazz and so forth as compaired to my current silver flute? Thanx, Alan (anonymous)
    • Pretty much up to you and how much you practice! The flute will do the job. I'm not a jazzer, but the open holes lend themselves to jazzy things like glissandi that don't work too well even on French system Boehm flutes. However, chromaticism and awkward keys are harder on simple system. It's not jazz, but listen to the playing of Jean-Michel Veillon (see his website) to see what can be achieved! He should be compulsory listening for all flute players in any genre! (Jem Hammond)
  • 1. I am a flutist who is still evolving my skills. If I purchase a headjoint now, will it still serve me well later on? 2. Is there a substantive difference between gold and silver headjoints? (Antoniu)
  • Hi. I'm playing a Tony Dixon plastic flute and I'm thinking about upgrading to a "reel" flute. Can someone recommend a decent priced beginners flute? I've found the glenluce flutes to be quite cheap but how are they when it comes to quality? I know they cant be to good for that price but are they even worth considering? I would appreciate any advice I could get. /Matt (Matt)
  • (anonymous)
  • I was recently watching my local arts channel, and they played two videos of an Irish flute player who was playing a non-transverse Irish flute. Now, I now you're all thinking, "It was a low whistle, dummy," but it really was a flute! I'm wondering if anyone out there has ever heard of such a thing, and if so, where can I get one. ( I have a semi-crippled left arm and it limits my flute playing time; my nerves go dead and I cannot move the fingers on my left hand.) Thank you in advance. (anonymous)
    • Quite possibly/very probably a Giorgi flute, or something modelled thereon - do a web search on that, and there's something about them on terry mcGee's site too. (Jem Hammond)
  • kia ora i have recently been over to china and fell in love with their traditional bamboo flutes. i bought 1 and brought it bak to nz with me and have managed to play a few notes on it. i do not know how to play the flute though and was wondering if there was somewhere that i could go or someone i could see to learn how to play it properly. any ideas? (RihariD)
  • How would you compare the flute playing style of Ian Anderson (of Jethro Tull) and James Galway? Would you say that Ian Anderson uses techniques more commonly associated with the Irish flute, whereas James Galway uses techniques more commonly associated with the modern classical flute? Thanks! :) (gottalottadisco)
  • How would you compare the flute playing style of Ian Anderson (of Jethro Tull) and James Galway? Would you say that Ian Anderson uses techniques more commonly associated with the Irish flute, whereas James Galway uses techniques more commonly associated with the modern classical flute? Thanks! :) (gottalottadisco)
  • I have an old piccolo that is in great shape I believe it resembles the Meyers Piccolo and I was hoping to find the fingering chart for this? All the holes and keys are in the same position. Thank you so much. (anonymous)
  • I am a Boehm flute player who really wants to make the switch to keyless. I have tried a friends keyless and discovered that my left hand cramps. I have concluded that it must be the diameter of the body. Is there a maker or style I should look for which would have a body the same size as my Yamaha? Vicki (Vicki)

purchasing

  • I have never played a flute instrument before. What is the most basic wooden flute (with or without keys) that i can purchase without spending over 100 bucks?? And also, would it be better for me to purchase a bamboo flute, or some other kind of material other than wood? Help a beginner, please... (NiteStar)
    • Hi, this is sometimes a tough decision to make especially if you have never played a flute before,Even though you could purchase a cheap flute somewhere for under $100,when or if you decide to sell this cheap flute, you may not have many potential buyers, On the other hand if you purchase a good quality flute and take good care of it over the years, you could sell it for possibly more than you paid for it,Buying a good flute is an investment,This does'nt mean that one should'nt look at or try out some cheaper flutes, who knows you might get lucky and find a good one. (anonymous)
    • But if you cannot find a very good flute for 100 dollars, I recommend you a Bamboo-flute by Patrick Olwell. (In concert "D" pitch.) These istruments are really-really good, cheap (under $100) and they are used even by the greatest flute-players as Jean-Micheal Veillon and Brian Finnegan. (Bennett.) (anonymous)
  • I have been playing irish music for 2 years by now on a keyless wooden De Keyzer, but now I am lookinkg for a tip on a 6 key flute since I have started playing other kinds of music where I would need other keys... So, does anyone have any suggestion for a new 6-key flute. I was thinking about Hammy's 6 key for its price and his known qualities, but if anyone have other tips... Thank you very much. (vudelf)
  • I want to play the Bamboo Flute but I don't know what key to get it in so it will sound like an Irish Flute. Apart from the key, should it be in Alto. Mid-Range, or Soprano? Thanx:) (anonymous)
  • Is there a good photo of an Olwell 8-keyed flute (d) out there on the web? It's a challenge to find an image of one, would like to see what they look like if any one can please shed some light here? Thanks. (anonymous)
  • I have been offered a Phillip Hammig wooden flute numbered 658/4 does anyone know anything about it? (anonymous)
    • I just purchased a new wood Hammig orchestral flute-it is a phenomenal instrument. contact me at martin.mador@aya.yale.edu (MartyM)
  • Can anyone help,looking for a sam murray or hammy hamilton with or without keys. ps D flute thanks PAUL (anonymous)
  • I am buying an Irish wooden flute for the first time. I have been advised that I would have pay between 600 Euro and 800 Euro and to go for quality. I live in Dublin, Ireland. Can you advise me where I should go and what I buy? My hands are also small. Your advise is appreciated (anonymous)
  • Hi all! I'm interested in purchasing a D flute, but I'm kind of unsure which one to get. I'm an experienced classical flute/piccolo player, and am doing pretty well on tin whistle. I'd like to get a flute that I might be able to play on in sessions (and semi-professionally with others if all goes well :)). Any thoughts? I checked out Michael Cronolly's page--these seem good to me, but are these appropriate for semi-professional/professional playing? Also, I'm from the Los Angeles area and am looking to try out flutes before purchasing. Any advice? Thanks! (lantanagirl)

Repair

  • Is there any special technique used to wrap a thread wrapped tenon joint when replacing it? I did see Terry McGee's article on which types of thread to use/not use, but nothing as to HOW to wrap, etc. (Jay)
    • Have you ever whipped the end of a rope to keep it from unraveling? It's the same thing. (Note: Ralph Sweet told me about this when my flute's thread needed replacment. Credit goes to him. Any errors in the description of the procedure are mine.) Get a length of 4-ply worsted yarn long enough to wrap fairly tightly around the groove and completely fill it, plus a little extra length. Sweet says to put a *small* amount of household cement in the yarn groove - just enough to keep the yarn in place. (I skipped that part, though, and have had no trouble.) Lay the ends of the yarn across the groove facing in opposite directions, so that the tails hang out several inches (you'll need enough overage to pull on when the wrapping is done). Now take up the large loop of yarn and start wrapping the yarn around the tenon in the groove, as if you were making a spool of thread. The yarn ought to be snug, but not tight, since it will have a tendency to become tighter over time. Once the groove is completely filled by the thread, then gently tug on the tails and pull out all of the remaining loose thread (it will run under the lappings you just made). At this point just snug it down so that the lappings firmly hold the yarn ends underneath them and cut away the excess. You may need to try it a few times to get a feel for it, and remember not to wrap it too tight! We don't want to crack the wood, after all. (Eris Caffee)
  • My husband has an old wooden flute (some holes, some keys) that we plan to put back into playing condition. (Don't worry..we are experienced in repair) Do the pads come in sets (like those for modern instruments do) or is it a "find & fit" procedure? Thanks (anonymous)
    • You can visit your local music store and pick-up clarinet pads, The pads come in different sizes so you might want to take the flute along to check on the size you want, I use them all the time. (anonymous)
    • I've always used basoon pads. they're ideal and are relitively cheap, use only water based pva glue though. ()
  • (mr.grumpy)
  • I hope you can help me!!! I repair flutes and have been asked to regulate a Rudall Carte 1867 system flute, but don't know exactly the sequence to follow to balance the mechanisms. It is a wooden flute, made in 1898. All advice appreciated! Thanks, Ray. (anonymous)
  • anyone know of good repairers in the north-east of england. pref tyneside? also value of an ebonite boosey and co 8-key? ()
  • I have a 6-key wooden piccolo from the turn of the century that I am repairing. What is the best way to adjust the tension on the flat springs, or do they just need to be replaced? (Charles Hanon)
    • Could you tell me the make of the piccolo, how many keys and what it is made from, african blackwood or ebony ? Derek (Derek)
  • I have recently been given a wooden flute. It is a three section flute. The top joint has no cork, the bottom joint does. I wish to repair the flute myself. Is it possible to use thread instead of cork? Can anyone advise me about the repair? (anonymous)
    • Certainly you can use thread! Make sure it's not too thick, as it will expand and potentially crack the socket. There are several methods used to thread tenons. Just make sure the thread is uniformly distributed so that the tenon fits evenly into the socket. (Brett Lipshutz)
  • I have recently got a Rudall Rose but it has a very tight joint on the lower end of the barrel where it fits into the 1st joint(wooden tenon and socket).My local repairer has managed to get it lose enough to rotate 1/4 turn,but could not get it to shift apart.It looks like it had not been played for a long time.Any suggestions?Thanks. (fluteredkev)
  • Hi, Does anyone know of someone in Texas who repairs antique flutes? (poppiefresh)
    • Yes, but what part of Texas? I've a friend in Houston who does this. Send me your e-mail and I'll email this fellow who can contact you if he wishes. mallette@wt.net (Larry Mallette)
  • Hi. So I got myself a low-end flute off of ebay. Today I noticed that a fine crack has developed on the outside of the first (mouthpiece) section. What do I do? It goes through a flaw in the wood. It seems shallow and isn't affecting the sound of the flute. Yet. Can I prevent it from getting worse? Am I in big trouble? Thanks in advance for any advice!! -Kerri (a total novice) (Kerri)
    • I had this same problem and a flutemaker told me to use Loctite 408 (a superglue type glue ). Sand the area around the crack in such a way as to fill the crack with fine sanding dust then apply the glue over the crack and it will filter down into the crack. Allow to harden overnite and sand off in the AM. Then polish out with a little light oil and 600 wet/dry paper. The crack disappears and the repair has held for a month of heavy playing. The glue is expensive ($22 for 20 grams) but a instrument repair guy will want more for the repair than the flute cost in the first place (anonymous)
    • I am a new flute player, but I do have a lot of experience with oboe, and I assume that the answer will be similar. The more you play this, the more the wood will expand and contract with the changes in moisture, and the more that this is a bad thing. If the crack makes it as far as the tonehole, you will have trouble. You should *mark* where the crack is with pencil marks (make marks that are perpendicular to the crack at either end) or with string or rubber bands (but no rubber bands on anything silver), and have this repaired by a competent instrument repair person. Usually, your local music store repairperson is *not* competent to repair cracked wooden instruments, but since you have described this flute as "low end," you might talk to him/her for advice. I have used Paul Covey in Atlanta for oboe cracks, but I don't know if he works on anything other than oboes. He may know of someone that you can send this to, though. Crack repair is not cheap, but it is crucial to the health of your instrument. (Shannon)
  • Does anyone have experience or suggestions on playing irish music on a wooden Boehm flute ? I have a nice one but it needs extensive overhaul. Is it worth the money (about $500-600)? Thank you Peter Belgium (peter)
    • If it's a good instrument (maker?) and plays at modern pitch A=440, then it's probably worth repairing if you are really going to play it, or maybe just for its own sake as a fine instrument. However, if you're serious about playing Irish music, I'd recommend using your money in making the shift to simple system - you'll get a decent keyless or 1 key starter flute for that money at the very least, or who knows what luck you might have in the old flute market? I know there are some famous Irish music flautists past and present who do the business on Boehm flutes, but there really are good reasons (mostly to do with crispness of attack and finger articulation/ornamentation, as well as tone character) why most of us go for open hole flutes of some kind. (Jem Hammond)
  • Hi, I have an old wooden G.H.Hueller flute (wooden with a reform headjoint). I was wondering about the best postion for the headjoint cork - right now it is about 5mm further in than in a modern headjoint... Any hints would be greatly appreciated!! (anonymous)
  • (anonymous)
  • I have a beautiful Stowasser/Budapest Sterling Silver and Grenadilia wood 13 Key flute and the low "C" roller and mount are missing (though the clutch mechanism is intact. Is there someone who knows where I might possibly find a replacement or would anyone have a part that would both work and be in keeping with the vintage quality of my flute? Any help will be greatly appreciated....this flute is a wonderful player. Thanking you in advance, Jerry (Jasbenj2)
  • I am currently repairing a Boosey & Sons "Pratten's Perfected" for a friend and am having trouble finding suitable pads: I need 14.5mm diameter leather pads with a thickness of no more than 2mm, preferably c1.5mm. The standard clarinet pads which are readily available commercially are too thick @3mm. I can get "skin" pads thin enough, but these are neither authentic nor really properly suitable, though they'll do as an interim measure. I'd be very appreciative of any advice/contact info on obtaining the right thing, preferably from a UK source, though anywhere will do. Is any mainstream manufacturer making such, or are there any competently made "home-made" pad makers out there who'd be willing to help? Thanks! (Jem Hammond)
    • This supplier seems to have a very good range - you should find something to suit :- http://www.windplus.co.uk/ (MikeGrace)
    • Answering myself, belatedly:- I found Terry McGee's advice on pad adapting (on his website) and have successfully slimmed down clarinet pads by opening them up, slicing the felt wadding in half laterally with a razor blade and reassembling them. A bit fiddly, but not too bad a job, and they do the business! I have since repadded my own R&R successfully - with saltspoon type keys I also had to trim a shoulder or bevel around the edge of the felt and reduce the size of the card backing disc, and/or replace it with thinner card. (The Boosey Pratten had flat-cupped keys.) Got all the bits I needed, including shellac flakes, from www.windcraft.co.uk by internet/mail order. (Jem Hammond)
  • Does anyone have any recommendations for pads to be used on wooden boehm flutes? So far I've read that people like to use double-bladder pressed felt pads and the synthetics... thanks shakiki2@localnet.com (Suzie a.k.a. Shakiki)
  • I have a coccuswood 8 key flute that I purchased from a garage sale recently and I would like to get it overhauled if possible. I found that the conical bore crack that I have is very common with older flutes like mine. Its also missing one of the silver rings(between piece 3 and 4) does anyone know how much it will cost me to get this fixed with a repad. I live in NYC ..the condition of the flute even with these problems is great and I really am looking forward to playing it if I can get it fixed as inexpensively as possible of course. (Ifabunmi)
  • I'm trying to find suppliers of parts for old wooden flutes, any information on rings, end caps, keys, corks etc would be most helpful. Thanks - Mike (MikeGrace)
  • The screwed cork adjuster on my Rudall is jammed tight in the head cap. How can I release it? (anonymous)

Seeking a Foot joint for a Rudall

  • Hi. I'm Andy Cohen, and I'm a sucker for wooden flutes. I bought two thirds of a Rudall -Carte Boehm flute, missing the foot joint. Can anyone tell me if there is one out there missing its middle and head joints, or if the measurements are such that another foot jint might be adapted to the two sections of the one I have? (Andy Cohen)

Selling

  • I AM HAVING ALOT OF TROUBLE SELLING MY WOODEN HEADJOINT! I've HAD A COUPLE OF OFFERS BUT NO ONE HAS BOTHERED TO CONTACT ME BACK AFTER IVE ACCEPTED> DOES ANYONE KNOW ANY GOOD SITES (BESIDES THIS ONE) THAT I CAN TRY TO SELL MY LOUIS LOT WOODEN HEADJOINT ON????? THANKS! (juniperberry65)
    • usedflutes.com ? (Suzie a.k.a. Shakiki)
  • hello, I am interested in selling flute bamboos from Asam (India). kindly suggest me some web links for this at nadsadhna@yahoo.com (nad sadhna)
  • I don't know how to post this. There is a seller on ebay selling an inexpensive plastic keyed flute, but he says it is in D+Eb but it is actually a Eb flute. While it isn't a bad deal if you want an Eb flute it is not, NOT, not a D. I've emailed the guy quite extensively a couple years ago when I bought two, but he doesn't seem to get it and he is selling them again as D flutes.... How do I post so people are forwarned? thanks Jean (anonymous)

Sessions

  • Do pubs which run sessions have to have a Performing Rights Society licence in the UK? (Les Taylor)
    • Seems to depend on how assiduously the local council applies the law. Stroud for instance, apply it to the letter (ie no more than 2 people playing) and have warned local pubs there for having sessions... (anonymous)
    • Check out the Hobgoblin site - they keep up to date on this issue - Cariad (Sarah)
  • I'm relocating from DC to Hampton, VA and going through session withdrawal! Does anybody know any Celtic musicians in the Hampton Roads area? (Thom)
    • New info! I found a weekly session in Virginia Beach. It is held in the Whitehorse Pub in the Pembrook Mall on Wednesday nights starting at around 8pm. I nice bunch of people and a variety of genres represented. Old Time, Bluegrass, and of course Celtic. Check out http://www.whitehorsepub.com (Thom)
  • I found a very useful website devoted to sessions and session playing. check out http://www.sessioneer.com (Thom)
  • greatful to be quietly learning from these postings, but now ask a logistical question. will be in london sept. 8 &9, and have searched for sessions and/or (trad)dancing in the area. seems like the activities are generally on thursdays, with some other week days peppered in. where might i find session tunage (or dancing...i'm a contralover)on those dates? any clues? (lindi)
  • I'm traveling to new orleans this weekend,oct23-26. Anyone know of sessions in the area? Thanks (anonymous)

Sheet Music

  • I am wondering if about celtic flute music. I would like to play more of a celtic flute, rather than the classical, but I am not sure where to get the music. I am looking for advanced celtic flute music. Thank you. (anonymous)
    • There's a play along cd set of Irish session tunes with sheet music available from Home Spun records. There are many websites with prinatable music including one called "sessioner" It may be helpful to focus on Irish music, since Celtic can include Scottish, Breton, and others. -Purcey (PURCEY)
    • Here's a better answer:
      My note-for-note transcriptions.

      These are truly note-for-note, very precise, and written in proper, standardized 21st century musical notation. This is how I learned the uilleann pipes and timber flute: by transcribing note-for-note (every little grace note, et al) the best players like Matt Molloy, Liam O'Flynn, Seamus Ennis.

      I am offering them for sale now, so please check out my new website:
      FlyingPiper.com

      There are no prices listed yet, but I am running a promotion on eBay for only $2.25 apiece.
      Search for TRANSCRIPTION IRISH FLUTE
      or here's a link:
      $2.25 offer.

      Please check it out. I put a lot of work into them. (Tom@FlyingPiper.com)

    • I would like to recommend to you my book, "The Essential Guide to Irish Flute and Tin Whistle". FOr information, come to http://greylarsen.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=25. (greylarsen)
    • The music is not, of course, for specific instruments, though individual tunes may be of an idiom that suggests their composer may have played a particular instrument (e.g. tunes going below D above middle C are probably of fiddle or squeeze-box origin,etc. on grounds of tessitura). So you won't find any published sources of "Celtic Flute Music". But despair not, as any source of traditional Irish, Welsh, Breton, Scots, Cornish, Manx or Galician tunes will provide you with as much material as you could wish, and there is no shortage of such sources either on the net or published in books. Check out www.thesession.org for tunes as a starting point on line, get hold of O'Neill's 1001 and some of Breathnach's Ceol Rince volumes for hard copy ..... (Jem Hammond)
  • I was searching the web for a source of Rockstro's flute treatise and was directed to this site. Can't find any reference to it here. I believe you can get a photocopy from the publishers but I don't know who they are. Can anyone help? Cheers Sass (anonymous)
    • I found a copy on a used book website called abebooks.com. I wasn't able to locate a new copy. here were two editions, the first, published in 1890, and the second, published in 1928. What I bought was a copy of the 1928 edition printed in 1967. This may be the photocopy of the book form the publisher. If you believe that it still may be available you can contact Musica Rara Publishing House in London. They are the publishers of my copy. (Brett Lipshutz)
    • I bought a paper back copy of "THE FLUTE" (3 volumes) by Richard Stephan Rockstro on Half.com about 8 months ago, and I've also seen it on Ebay several times. The 1986 printing is by Frits Knuf-Buren-The Netherlands, ISBN 90 6027 507 1 Best of luck, Jerry Schurr (Jasbenj2)
  • My uncle built me a beautiful 7-hole Native American Love Flute. The sound is so beautiful. My problem is, I can't find any sheet music for this instrument. 6-hole is most common. Can anyone help me? Thanks, judi@281.com (jthomison)
    • Go to George Kelischek's website, http://www.susato.com/. (greylarsen)
  • I have regular flute music that has Irish Flute writin in it too Ive tried to find an inexpensive C flute but their nowhere. Would it make a differance if i got a D Irish Flute since the regular flute is a C instument? (anonymous)
    • Actually, you normally would want a d-flute, since most people who play Irish music play flutes in this key. It simply means that the flute's lowest note is a "d". The confusion probably stems from the fact that silver flutes are in C. (Brett Lipshutz)
  • I've been playing celtic music on wooden flute for a while but have recently been given a Chinese wooden flute (hopefully bamboo counts as wood!) and fancy playing some proper Chinese tunes. Can anyone tell me where I might find some music. (Ed) (anonymous)
    • There is a book called Chinese Flute Solos compiled by Jonathan Stock. You should be able to get it at www.fluteworld.com (flutefanatic)
  • Does anyone know the names of the "Cape Breton Jigs" on the Live at Matt Molloy's CD. Anyone have the notes? (Will O'Hare)
  • I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IS AVAILABLE SHEET IRISH MUSIC FOR THREE OR FOUR FLUTES TOGETHER AND HOW HAVE IT.THANKS. NOLENSVOLENS@LIBERO.IT (raspax)
    • Don't know for sure, but think it v unlikely: any such would by definition be a composer's arrangement of traditional material. The very nature of Irish Traditional music is that it is melodic and monophonic. In some quarters even putting chords to it on guitar, bouzouki or keyboard is controversial! Drones are ok with the purists, however! I say do whatever works for you, and the approbation of others is a bonus; but heavy polyphonic harmony just isn't the nature of this music. It gains interest by different instruments with different tone colours and playing idioms, particularly in how they ornament the basic melody, playing essentially the tune in unison but with constant subtle variation. If you want 4 part harmony, you'll probably have to write it yourself. (Jem Hammond)
  • Do you have some sheet music for flute, free to the members of wooden flute.com, Id like to know where can I find the flute you have in your home page. I am from Costa Rica, is that a problem to buy something (Alvaro Tico)
    • http://www.keystave.com/Department.asp?idDepartment=17&idFamily=&idInstrument=14 http://www.pjb.com.au/mus/free/ http://www.redcedar.org/music.html http://www.harpsong.org/music.html#music http://www.norbeck.nu/ (anonymous)
  • I am looking for sheetmusic from the tune 'Gaoth Barra Na Dtonn. Can anybody help me with this tune. James van Leuven (anonymous)

Site question

  • The wooden flute digest contains questions / answers that don't seem to exist on the www.woodenflute.com site. What's the URL? ()
  • I have found (in clearing out an estate) a wooden flute. 23.5 inches long. 6 Open holes and a 7th hole with a square valve. Markings on all 4 sections as follows: J-PROWSE OLD JEWRY LONDON SPRAGUE 93 LONDON WALL Does anyone have any information about this type of flute? PLease e-mail me at judylbarth@cs.com Thanks (anonymous)
  • Looking for to purchase vintage simple system flutes made by Henry Potter 36 - 38 West St Charing X Road London. Made in either cocuswood or african blackwood with an ebonite barrel, these flutes have a unicorn head trade stamp,Made in either 5 or 6 keys, Wish to obtain Eb piccolo to Bb bass flute.grateful for any help. (Derek)
  • I am interested in anyone who has an ebony, African blackwood or ebonite Hawks & Son Crown A-Z 6 key flute in B flat. Good order preferred other considered also consider part of flute. I am an enthusiast. E mail briancrossett@hotmail.com (Brian Crossett)
  • Is anybody out there having the same problem as me? When I click on play tune it comes up with error. This is a new thing, it has always worked before. We have done all the usual and it plays all other music files it just seems to be this website. Pat (1.12.2007) (Pat Walsh)

Tuning

  • I now have a 5-key "footless" wooden flute by H.Y.POTTER & Co., 36 & 38 WEST St., CHARRING + ROAD, LONDON. I'm trying to determine the tuning and original key and pitch of this flute. Does anyone have a step by step procedure using a frequency counter or chromatic tuner. There should be a method somewhere. Thanks (Jack)
    • Look for Aspire software on the web.They offer a 1 month free trial of a frequency analysing programme which will do everything you need .Andrew Kirby (anonymous)
  • What key is a baroque flute in? (nbfrules)
    • The standard Baroque flute is in D; i.e. the 6-finger note (xxx xxx) is D above middle C and the natural diatonic scale obtained by removing the fingers sequentially is D major. Music written for flute is not transposed but written as for C instruments. However, the naming of the scale is not the whole story - Baroque playing pitch was not standardised and was generally lower than modern pitch, so old instruments will probably not play a modern A=440 when the A fingering is sounded. Some modern Baroque style reproductions are built at modern pitch, however. (Jem Hammond)
  • Do I need to have a tuning slide on my flute? I have a Tony Dixon plastic flute in 2 parts. I can do very fine tuning with this when I play with other musicians. Does a tuning slide make it easier to play with others not at concert pitch (A= 440)? (anonymous)
  • Is there any way to sharpen pitch on an old wood flute? I have a blackwood flute marked L.P. V. Kohlert and Sons Graslitz, Checho-Slovakia D It plays almost 1/2 tone flat with slide all the way in. Is there any way to bring the pitch up? ------------- more accurate description: Transverse flute by V. Kohlert Sons, Graslitz, ca. 1918-1938. Four sections. Stamped on upper body: L. P. / V. KOHLERT SONS / MAKERS / GRASLITZ / CZECHO-SLOVAKIA / CHICAGO / PARIS / LONDON / D / 367. African blackwood, with German silver ferrules. Tuning slide, screw-cap. Integral foot. Metal lining in head joint and tuning slide. Thirteen German silver keys. Post and axle supports. Closed keys: long c'', double B-flat, trill, G-sharp, alternate G-sharp, B-C trill, long F, short F, D-sharp. Articulated keys: c-sharp', c', b. Lowest note b. Total length, 713 mm. Sounding length, 627 mm. (Texas Celt)
  • I'm new to this. What is a tuning slide and how does it work? (anonymous)

Value

  • I have a Buffet Crompons A Paris LP flute which is about 60 or more years old. Is there a value to this wooden flute? (anonymous)
  • I have an old a wooden open hole flute Made in Germnay. It is IN an old case and the name starts with SUPERT_ _ _ I think. How do I determine the value of this flute? The initials look like C over LP. Please tell me something about this musical instrument. (anonymous)
  • I have a flute made entirely out of ivory,a six key flute, in very good condition. Does anyone have any idea of its worth or history? I can email pictures. (anonymous)
    • I suspect the flute does'nt have any markings or makers name since you did'nt mention any, I believe i could tell you the country of origin and maybe the maker if i could see a couple of photo's I have been dealing in old flutes for the past 26 years, and ive come across all types and systems of flutes in that time, My email is Ardagh@bestweb.net (anonymous)
  • Hi, I have a flute I'd like to know more about. Overall it's 15-1/4" long. It wasn't corked when I got it many years ago--30 or more--at an antique shop. I surmised, from some research, and perhaps from remnants of thread, that it should have waxed string instead of cork. I installed waxed linen weaving yarn and, I confess, it's so tight I never take the flute apart because I fear doing it an injury. It is in three sections. There are 4 metal bands (maybe nickle) and two raised, pointed hips and a rounded raised area at the end where one key is installed via a pin through the raised area. It has six finger holes on top plus the key--no thumb hole. Dark wood, but not black, with some lighter streaks. Marks are described below. }|||{ (That's a lyre) WALLIS 6. UNION ST. BORO LONDON B (one note--I thought at first it said "G. UNION ST. BORO" because there is not much definition remaining on the left side of the character) The middle joint and end joint are each stamped (the middle joint with the lyre, the end without) with the below text: WALLIS LONDON I have been told, but didn't do the research myself, that it was made 1865-67, but age doesn't convey value, does it? I'm not sure whether I should hide it away as a rare object or play it as I please because it has a nice tone. Or, I suppose, play it but be careful of *where.* Have you ever run into anything like this? Marguerite (Marguerite)
  • Anyone ever heard of the London maker J Best? I just bought a six key blockmounted flute with this stamped on it over ebay very cheap. I would be interested in any information about it. Thanks Patrick Dunn (pdunn)
  • I have recently acquired [free through family] a Buffet wood flute.There is no serial no. that I can see. At the top of the body there is what appears to be a model no. [341M or 841M ]. I am only interested in restoring this instrument if the process is cost affective It needs: pads, springs, tone whole work, and a ring for the bottom of the foot[for potection at the least (yru2)
  • I have a wooden Boehm flute marked "Montague Bros & Co, London" which I bought in Galway in the late 1980's. Since then I bought a Philip Hammig Boehm flute and would sell the Montague. It's in playing condition but I've no idea of it's value. Any inputs? I can be mailed at joedunne@iol.ie. (Joe Dunne)
  • Hi, I have a koehlert sons c flute with 8 keys. It is a wooden flute, and says on it...v koehlert sons makers graslitz bohemia then under that it has a design with the word paris. It is in excellent condition and plays, but it is missing the end cap (which I've noticed many are). Any idea what this could be worth and when it was made (neighborhood)? I have pics available upon request. Also.. ANYTHING about kohlert.... thanks! (Niki)
  • does anyone have anyone information on an 8 key Rohf flute made in new york around the mid 1800's?..e.apoe@mindspring.com eric (anonymous)
  • I have a wooden clarinet,I think made out of boxwood.My Great Grandfather bought it out with him from Ireland to New Zealand in 1842(I now reside in Australia),it is made by Corbett& Son,LIMERICK IRELAND,and is has the letter B stamped on it. I have been told that it is very rare.I am trying to get an idea as to the value of it and look forward to a reply form anyone who might know. (anonymous)
  • My husband purchased an old wooden flute for me at auction and I am trying to determine the value for insurance purposes. What is the vest way to go about obtaining an approximate value - short of taking it to an appraiser? There are no appraisers in my area that have the expertise requried to make the appraisal. Is anyone aware of an on-line database that would house this type of info? (BLOWHARD)
    • There is a website called What's it worth to you? where you can send in pictures and as best of a description that you can come up with. For $10 you can have an expert in the field give you an estimate and an appraisal. (anonymous)
  • My wife was given a wooden flute her Father bought it in 1960 in Scotland antique store. It is a 4 piece with nickel keys. It also has a wooden case with a dark purple felt inside. I have no idea how to trace the history or find its value. Please, if you have any ideas where to start, I would love the help. (anonymous)
  • I HAVE JUST RECENTLY RECEIVED A FLUTE OR I BELIEVE THIS IS WHAT IT IS FROM A FRIEND. IT IS MADE OF WOOD AND IVORY AND HAS GEO. CLOOS ON IT WITH A SYMBOL OF SOMETHING ON IT. ALSO HAS 540 ON IT. AND 6 KEYS. IT MEASURES 12 INCHES. HOW EARLY IS THIS AND IS IT OF ANY VALUE. ITS IN VERY GOOD COND WITH A HAIRLINE CRACK IN THE IVORY.THANKS. CHARLES (anonymous)

Woodenflute.com Website

  • Whenever I log on to this site as a member I get an error message saying that I am not enabled for "cookies". I do have cookies enabled though and never have this problem anywhere but here. If I then log on a second time everything works fine. Why is this happening? Randy Howard (anonymous)
  • I am a student of the wooden flute - 5-key, six hole conical flute. I purchased my flute from a friend, musician and now teacher 'Joaquin Oliveros'. He ilives in Cuba and plays the undadorned wooden flute. He is considered the best there is in Cuba and where ever Cuban 'Criole' music is popular (violins, flute & rhythm orchestras are known as French Charangas.) Joaquin as many students who visit him in Havana, from Ireland. Long story short - I am looking for information Re: this type of flute player, as well as other. I also have extensive information (research) on the instrumentalist who play or have played this wooden flute in Cuban (also lists of recordings... Thankyou (anonymous)
    • Envidia Records in Spain is issuing lots of Charanga music, including Joaquins. You can search on the web for Melquiades Fundora, Polo Tamayo, Richard Eges, Antonio Arcao, Jose Fajardo, etc. Visit http://home.earthlink.net/~charanga/. For more information on charanga flutes, you can see fingering charts in Tim Reichards page www.wfg.woodwind.org or Terry McGees www.mcgee-flutes.com.(Pablo) (anonymous)
  • Does anyone know if the Aulos Plastic Baroque Flute (Flauto Traverso) with Hard Case(stanesby copy) listed in the eshop is in stock, or must it be ordered from the manufacturer? (Meister1221)
  • I want to contact with the person who sell the Powell n 10549 wooden flute. (anonymous)

Woodenflute Email List

  • I keep trying to send a message to the woodenflute email list at woodenflute@woodenflute.com. Why don't my messages get delivered to the list? (webmaster)
    • In order to prevent spam mail from being delivered to the entire woodenflute email list membership, the list software only allows subscribed members to post messages to the list. Sometimes a valid member can't post to the list because the "From:" line of his/her message does not contain the same address that was used to subscribe to the list. You should send yourself an email message and check the message headers to verify that the email address specified on the "From:" line matches the address you used to subscribe to the list. (webmaster)
  • Is it OK to post a "for sale" message on the woodenflute list? (webmaster)
    • As long as the product you are trying to sell is related to wooden flutes and you are a subscriber to the list, it is OK to post "for sale" messages. If you are selling a flute, I recommend that you list it on the "For Sale" page on this website. (webmaster)
  • How do I subscribe or unsubscribe from the woodenflute email list or digest? (webmaster)
    • Log in to the woodenflute.com website, then visit your member preferences page and check or uncheck the appropriate boxes. Your changes take effect within 15 minutes of when you click the update button. (webmaster)
  • Would it be possible to add a standard mailing list header to the woodenflute email list? Something on the order of: List-Id: This would help my software recognize it as a usual mailing list! (Doirlinn)
  • I wondered if anyone could give me some of their thoughts about M+ E plastic flutes. I have a Moore flute that I enjoy playing. I'm looking for plastic or some other non wood flute material so that I can take it on sailing trips without worrying that It might be damaged. Thanks Emile (anonymous)
  • Looking for to purchase vintage simple system flutes made by Henry Potter 36 - 38 West St Charing X Road London. Made in either cocuswood or african blackwood with an ebonite barrel, these flutes have a unicorn head trade stamp,Made in either 5 or 6 keys, Wish to obtain Eb piccolo to Bb bass flute.grateful for any help. (Derek)
    • I just purchased a Henry Potter piccolo and have yet to determine anything about it, email me if you can help me to figure out if what I have is what you want! jennasnyder@peacemail.com (anonymous)
  • Hi, I have a VERY nice wooden piccolo boehm system I think it would be called (I forget sometimes) and it is VERY VERY nice with no cracks or anything plating wear, etc. The manufacturer is M.A. Fahn and says Markneukirchan which is all stamped on it with silver colored lettering... I am putting pictures on http://geocities.com/myinscollection (click the MA Fahn link) . PLEASE HELP WITH ANY INFO! I tried searching it one time and just came up with the Markneukirchan stamp being a name of a city in Germany. There is no model number nor serial number (that I've seen) on it... THANKS!! Suzie (Suzie a.k.a. Shakiki)


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